JWaldz Rear 8" Full Float Elocker Diamond Axle Build & BS

Painted the rear calipers yesterday with the brush type kit. I'll hopefully never have to do this again. Messy as hell and a PITA lol.

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Made a lot of headway this past weekend. Was able to fully build the axle and get it under the truck. Mounted up the links and driveshaft. Just need to mount the shocks, get the brake line and proportioning valve on, tighten everything up, and tie up some other odds and ends to finish it! Should be back on tires this week, finally!

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Sorry if I miss it, but what are you using for ebrake?

No ebrake with this setup. It's eliminated. Something I can live without for the time being, as I rarely use it. I plan to eventually get a line-lock to temporarily remedy the matter. I'll just have to be aware of my surroundings when offroading, no parking on steep hills and if I do be sure to rest up against a tree or something haha.

Front Range OffRoad does have a setup that allows for ebrake (called the Drotor). It utilizes 5th Gen 4Runner outers with the drum parking brake. It adds like 3.5" of width to each side.
 
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The new axle is under the truck and mounted!

HOWEVER, I've ran into a bit of an issue with my wheels :Cry:

So with the new setup, my SCS SR8's don't allow to fit completely flush due to the lip on wheel for the center cap. Something I should have checked ahead of time, but didn't even think of it.

This leaves me with two options.
A) Get new wheels.
or
B) Have the lips machined off.

Seeing as don't I have the money laying around for new wheels and I don't have the time to wait to sell my wheels, it looks as if I'm going to go with the machining process. Plus, I love my SR8's too much.

Total bummer when you think you can get your truck off jack-stands only to find out you can't :pout:
 
The new axle is under the truck and mounted!

HOWEVER, I've ran into a bit of an issue with my wheels :Cry:

So with the new setup, my SCS SR8's don't allow to fit completely flush due to the lip on wheel for the center cap. Something I should have checked ahead of time, but didn't even think of it.

This leaves me with two options.
A) Get new wheels.
or
B) Have the lips machined off.

Seeing as don't I have the money laying around for new wheels and I don't have the time to wait to sell my wheels, it looks as if I'm going to go with the machining process. Plus, I love my SR8's too much.

Total bummer when you think you can get your truck off jack-stands only to find out you can't :pout:

Congrats!
Do you have a pic of the wheel problem? I cant picture it in my head.
 
Actually, according to the Articles of Confederation, numerous SCOTUS rulings and the UN Charter of Human Rights, right to travel, by the normal conveyance of the day, is a human right.

LMAO. I'd say more but no need to draw away from the first post.

With regards to this thread. Pretty cool setup. On a separate note I assume you are (hopefully) liking the career change.
 
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LMAO. Everything you listed except SCOTUS isn't even a legally recognized thing. And SCOTUS has never ruled that states cannot regulate the vehicles that travel on government run taxpayer funded (often Federally funded) roads and highways. Reminds me of those videos on Youtube of sovereign citizens refusing to show their licenses to LEOs.


Wow...didn't even bother to research it, huh? Well, I certainly won't spoon feed you. "Sheeple have two speeds; graze and stampede." Here's hoping you wake up before things get "too bad", lol.

Doesn't surprise me though....most Amerikans are slaves. "None are more hopelessly enslaved than those who falsely believe they are free".
 
Congrats!
Do you have a pic of the wheel problem? I cant picture it in my head.

It's hard to get a pic of it.. Basically, the wheel isn't designed to have a wheel hub go all the way through the center. They designed the wheel with a lip that's smaller than the outer diameter of the hub bore to fit a center cap. Only the F5's are made to fit older Toyotas as they don't have this lip and can fit over the entire wheel hub.

Not mine, but here's a pic of the center cap lip machined off

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Any idea what it's going to cost to bore those wheels out? I would guess it will be cost prohibitive since set up time is so high (generally).
 
You can sort of see the lip in this picture. The lip kind of has a rolled over edge to fit the center cap.

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Any idea what it's going to cost to bore those wheels out? I would guess it will be cost prohibitive since set up time is so high (generally).

I was quoted $100 for the machining.. That doesn't include me getting the wheels dismounted (after just having them mounted on new tires) and then getting them mounted and tires balanced (again).
 
I was quoted $100 for the machining.. That doesn't include me getting the wheels dismounted (after just having them mounted on new tires) and then getting them mounted and tires balanced (again).

That's a screaming deal. Good job. Was it a smaller local shop (out of curiosity)?
 
That's a screaming deal. Good job. Was it a smaller local shop (out of curiosity)?

haha, I was thinking so as well. It's a full offroad fab shop. I think he felt really sorry for me, and the fact I'm driving 3 hours to get to him. That's all ya get from me lol.
 
haha, I was thinking so as well. It's a full offroad fab shop. I think he felt really sorry for me, and the fact I'm driving 3 hours to get to him. That's all ya get from me lol.

Hey, I'm definitely not above taking a pity price.....

Around here, machine shops (if they'd even take on a small job like that) would probably want at least $100 per wheel.

Glad you're finding a way to keep the wheels you like. It's so hard to find a set (IMO) that suits the look you want....nice to be able to keep what you originally wanted.
 
See post 2 on page 1 for the finished product!!


After discussing with Vin (SCS Wheels) it appeared the center cap lip was my problem. The wheels weren't designed for older model Toyotas with the large hubs. In order to make this work, which I knew was possible as I've seen these and his other wheels on older Land Cruisers, was to machine out that beveled lip. Sorry, didn't document it this process. Not much to see and nothing glorious but it did fix the problem!

This was pretty much the final touch to getting it back on it's own weight.

After that, it was simply dumping in the entire gallon of diff fluid (not looking forward to this for future drains/fills), hook up the proportioning valve, and bleeding the brake system!

This little guy was a PITA to fit in the spacing I had available, but I made it work. I need to go back and straighten up that wavy looking output line but it does the job great. The whole purpose of this proportioning valve is to adjust how much pressure goes to the rear brakes. Since I now have discs in the rear, this is important to adjust. It allows you to dial in not only the stopping power but makes sure that in the event of a hard braking situation the rear brakes don't lock up first and you go sliding sideways. Instructions from FROR were great and after a couple adjustments I was able to make the front and rear lock up at the same time. Luckily, it had just snowed and we had slick surfaces all over the street to test this out on my own. I will say, NOT having the ABS kick in to try to kill me fills SOOO much better.

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