Kennedy's 4Runner's Restoration & Build

[Sailwin]

Cleaning the condenser coils let the a/c work again!

Yesterday driving home was just over 100°f, with the a/c on, cruising on the interstate, I was left sweating in the driving seat. :flame:
This morning I pulled the grill off, cleaned the bumper, the end caps, the condenser coils (which were caked shut with gunk), and straightened as many of the fins as I could get my tiny two flat head screw drivers to. Also refinished the metal trim piece behind the bumper and below the grill (sanded off all the rust, primed and repainted black). :flamethrwoer2:

View attachment 160068

Yesterday driving home it was a little over 100°f outside, but my 4Runner was nice and cool on the inside! :bluejump: It is amazing how many problems, especially with a/c, can be fixed with cleaning! :eyebrows:

 

[Sailwin]

Steering Stops

I already addressed this issue, and the noise has not returned. But i thought I'd go ahead with the next step. I ordered on eBay 86-95 Toyota Pickup, 86-95 4-Runner & all T100, Steering Stop, Groan Stopper, sold by sherwood515. :keyboard:

I'm going to sand the stops flush so there aren't any rough spots to cut up the new bolt covers (which appear to be delrin). Measure the thickness of the cover, and screw the steering stop bolt in that much. :loco:

 

[Sailwin]

Steering Stops

I ordered on eBay 86-95 Toyota Pickup, 86-95 4-Runner & all T100, Steering Stop, Groan Stopper, sold by sherwood515. :keyboard:

I'm going to sand the stops flush so there aren't any rough spots to cut up the new bolt covers (which appear to be delrin). Measure the thickness of the cover, and screw the steering stop bolt in that much. :loco:

Sanded the stop plates flush, primered, and then sprayed with undercarcoating. I know the new stop bolt covers will wear through the new paint, but at least the rest of it is protected.

Took a bunch of measurements of the new stop bolt covers, came up with: :barf:
1.) The new cover is 0.400" thick, on top of the bolt head
2.) The cover/cap, requires 0.280" of thread below the bolt head to set in place (lock on to the bolt head).
3.) My steering stops where approx 1.154"-1.272" from bolt head to surface, and with the jam nut I could only screw the bolt head into to 1.000", and still have barely enough clearance between the bottom of the bolt head and the top of the jam nut, and I would loose approx. 0.250" of steering travel. :sobbing:

Pounded the new steering stop caps on with a big hammer and some force, gave a quick test, and feel as though the loss of steering is not very noticeable, and the steering stop engage very smoothly verus the metal to metal contact. :jump:

Initial impression, worth the money, and time. Would recommend if your looking to spend money, but you can do a lot of cleaning, and applying grease for years for the same amount of money, probably a lifetime. :tape:

 

[Sailwin]

SmileAmazon, OEM Denso O2 Sensor

Been trying to get an O2 sensor for a while, I first tried to get an OEM O2 sensor online, but didn't want to wait for shipping. So i ordered it online from my local NAPA with the expectations of picking it up that afternoon. But after two weeks (and a lot of time waisted), i was finally told they never ordered it. :mad2: I then tried my local Toyota dealer, only to find out they wanted $185, and it would have to be ordered.

Finally started checking online again, and ended up ordering from Smile.Amazon.com, love the idea of some of my order going to the charity of my choice, a local education place that my daughter attends. :thumb:

I ordered Denso 234-4152 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor), Smile.Amazon.com: Denso 234-4152 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor): Automotive. It was supposed to be the OEM O2 sensor, and it sure looked like it to me. It came with a gasket for the exhaust and a grommit for the body. The plug was an exact fit. Extremely happy with the price and the part so far! :clap2:

I started the truck up with the new sensor, and immediately noticed a difference. It idled smoother, and the excessive gas smell was all but gone. I took it for a test drive after it had idled for a while, and found it drove significantly better! The truck now gets to redline, is quicker, smoother, and doesn't smell like its running rich whenever it is stopped (like every red light). When I got back home, parked it in the garage, and let it run for a little bit to see what it would smell like. The excessive gas smell was now gone! I think the truck is running like it should! :wow:

Highly recommend Smile. Amazon.com, and this Denso O2 sensor. :lalala:

 

[Sailwin]

eBay part - Air Intake Hose, throttle body

Ordered an Engine Throttle Body Air Intake Hose for 89-95 Toyota Pickup Truck 4Runner 3.0L, from partscollect, even though I have the 88-89 Toyota 4Runner 3.0L. I had hoped the part would be close enough. ray2:

The part I got was very close to what I had. The big difference (besides my old one being broken and missing a good section at the throttle body) was the location of the vent hose. The new part's vent hose was closer to the 10-11 O'Clock position, where my old one was more at 9-10. :second:

Installed the new part, it wasn't prefect, but it worked, and was better then the old broken piece with cracks and holes. The vent hose relocation slightly deforms the shape. Maybe a new, more flexible vent hose would fix this? :bigok:

Then again, I'm probably the only one who would notice. :fish:

 

[Sailwin]

Discontinued Parts

I have four new windshield washer fluid tubing hood clips on order, $1.xx ea..... ordered over a week ago.

After many confusing visits over several weeks to my local Toyota dealer, I was finally informed my windshield washer fluid line hood clips have been discontinued. This was also my third attempt at getting the grill clips; ordered wrong the first two times, picked up some of them this time, and ordered them again. :rockthrow:

Add this to the many other parts I have tried to find; door panel "cup/handles", cargo light lens cover or entire assembly, distributor cap cover, and other misc. items. :rant:

I guess I'll check some other places. Tracking down parts is definitely one of the joys of older vehicles. eace:

 

[Sailwin]

Discontinued Parts

After many confusing visits over several weeks to my local Toyota dealer, I was finally informed my windshield washer fluid line hood clips have been discontinued. This was also my third attempt at getting the grill clips; ordered wrong the first two times, picked up some of them this time, and ordered them again. :rockthrow:

After some research on the internet, it looks like my windshield washer tubing hood clips (part # 9095901136) are not discontinued! :doh:

Grill clips picked up, hood clips ordered. :vader:

On a side note, when I first got the 4Runner, I was getting almost 17 mpg babying it on the highway. As of the latest work I am now getting just over 19.8 mpg being hard on it, driving a combo of city/highway, with A/C on! :faint:

 

[Sailwin]

Finally took care of my front diff leak

I finally convinced myself it was time to stop my only leak, my front differential cover. Every time I stop for a few minutes, I get a little puddle. I think it is just the cover, but theirs a slim chance it could be from the side.... I'll have to do some driving to test it out. :car:

This was a slight PITA! I removed the cover, then the cross member. Cleaned all old silicone off with chisel, then scotch brite on die grinder, and got the hard to reach spots by hand. De-greased the cover and cross member, dried thoroughly, applied a nice bead of black High Temp RTV silicone,torqued to 15 ft-lbs per manual, and let dry for 24 hrs. Then filled it up w/80w-90w diff oil, took on a 10 mile test drive, and no leaks yet. I'll do a 75-100 mile test in tomorrow.

 

[Sailwin]

Audio tune-up

Once I started working on the 4Runner again, I had to install some old bass blockers (passive filters) I had laying around on my front speakers. Helped with the sound quality, and convinced my to re-tune my amp & 6x9's. I'm now convinced I need to install a sub, change out my amp, power my 5-1/4's from the new amp, and do a custom box mounted in the rear quarter panel for the sub......maybe I'll settle for I what I have......

 

[Sailwin]

Optima Yellow Top Battery

My battery died on me a few times recently, it was only 5 months old. So replaced it with an Optima Yellow Top Battery, with side and top terminals. I have had lots of battery issues over the years with different vehicles, but never with these Optima Batteries. They are a little pricey, but they work! Only issue is charging them. I had to get a special charger for AGM Batteries, but I love the charger too! I can leave my batteries in the vehicles, connected and it works! I'd recommend this battery to everyone, for all the vehicles! :banana:

 

[Sailwin]

Clutch Pedal issues?

Recently my clutch pedal stopped coming up all the way. Tried bleeding it several times, and it would work like normal for maybe 1-2 pumps or about 30 seconds after bleeding it, then it would act up again. :yuck:

The clutch works, but the pedal only comes up off the floor about 2/3's of the way, and sometimes it will "pop" back up to it's fully disengaged position. :sadwave:

So I ordered a new Master and Slave Cylinder, and some parts for my wifes car. Hope to get it Saturday, and install them ASAP. But might have to work on my wife's Subaru Outback first (water pump, t. stat, & belt tensioner), so she will help me bleed my clutch system. :tea:

 

[Sailwin]

New Master & Slave Clutch Cylinders

Recently my clutch pedal stopped coming up all the way. Tried bleeding it several times, and it would work like normal for maybe 1-2 pumps or about 30 seconds after bleeding it, then it would act up again. :yuck:

I replaced my Master & Slave Clutch Cylinders Saturday. It was pretty straight forward. :clap2:

The Slave Cylinder is bolted to the transmission on the passenger side. I loosened the two 12mm mounting bolts, broke loose the 10mm hydraulic line, then removed the two mounting bolts, and finally disconnected the hydraulic line. Installation was the reverse of removal.

The Master Cylinder is mounted to firewall from the engine compartment with two 12mm nuts, and connected to the clutch pedal with a "bolt" and cotter pin. I removed the cotter pin and "bolt" from the pedal, broke loose the 10mm hydraulic line, removed the two 12mm mounting bolts, disconnected the 10mm hydraulic line and removed the old Master Cylinder. Installation was the reverse of the removal.

Next up was bleeding the system. I got my 8yr old daughter to help with this. Bleeding was time consuming, but very easy. I didn't bench bleed anything. I started by filling up the master cylinder reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid, then had my daughter push down on the clutch pedal (which at the beginning sucked to the floor) and I then loosened up the 10mm bleeder screw on the slave cylinder while I had a simple tube and cup to catch the old fluid and not let any air back into the system. Every 4 cycles of this, I topped of the fluid in the master cylinder's reservoir (I think by six cycles I would have drained the reservoir and let air into the system). We did this for what felt like 15-20 minutes, and maybe 6 fluid top offs. :fencing:

I took it for about a 100 mile test drive through cities and on the Interstate, and I am very pleased with the results! It was a success! My clutch pedal operates incredibly smooth, with less force, a consistent feel, much better engagement, and returns to it's normal position! I got an Aisin Master Cylinder (part# CMT011) and Beck/Arnley Clutch Slave Cylinder (part#0727917 (072-7917)) from RockAuto.com for $40.95 & shipping, well worth the money I think! :yo:

 

[85_4Runner]

Great build thread! Thanks for your efforts to document the work you've done here. I have also picked up a first-gen 4Runner that will need similar treatment; subscription added.

 

[Sailwin]

You were right! Lol

yeah these motors are mid band power makers if you call 125hp at the fly wheel for a veh

yeah these motors are mid band power makers if you call 125hp at the fly wheel for a vehicle nearing 1.5 tons power there ok power plants but make it hard when your 454 buddy needs pulled out of a mud hole and you dont have the power to pull his 3 ton ***

Last night I tested that theory, and you were right! Lol:crybaby: It took my buddy's lifted and built Diesel to get me out.

I never mean to four wheel my diesel, but sometimes it happens. :fish:

 

[Sailwin]

Farewell for now

Well, I ended up trading my 4Runner for an '04 Subaru WRX Wagon with a 5-speed (that needs/needed work).

While I miss the Toyota, I have been left with many happy memories, and suspect I will end up with another one in the future (or working on one at least, lol). :cheers:

My final work was replacing the windshield and ordering front wheel bearing from Marlin Crawler (#2 x Front Wheel Bearing Kit - $98.00 ($49.00 each)
SKU: MCAX-1522, Application: 1986-95 Independent 4WD Front Axle), along with a Trail-Gear Toyota 54mm Axle Socket from smile.amazon .

The plan was to replace the axle/diff seals, and the wheel bearings at the same time, but the day the parts came in was the day I traded the 4Runner (and included all parts & spares) for my next project.

Thanks again for all the help and resources!

:thanks:

 

[_ExpeditionMan]

Came here just to say what a clean 4runner this is.