Key not wanting to turn in ignition

In my 2000 a problem has cropped up all of a sudden in which I go out to start it and the key won't turn in the ignition. I don't believe it's steering column related as I am not doing anything different than I have done in the 10-plus years since I've owned it. That being said, when it has not turned, I have tried everything I could think of, including moving the steering wheel back and forth. I sprayed the key slot with WD-40 and when it turns, it turns very smoothly.
Here's the thing. It just happens randomly, but seems to be happening more and more frequently. I don't want to be stuck sometime in a precarious situation, have my engine die, and then not be able to turn the key to get it started again.
Anyone else have this trouble, and if so, what did you end up doing to solve it?
 
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The tumblers could be stuck with dirt.

Your key could be worn to the extent it no longer operates the tumblers properly.

I bought a new key cut with my key code and put a rag under the lock and sprayed cleaner in it to flush out the debris and then flooded it with lock lube.

When my steering lock is active I can’t turn the ignition switch until I move the steering wheel a little. This happens often enough I figure you had this happen a few time in 10 years of ownership.


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The tumblers could be stuck with dirt.

Your key could be worn to the extent it no longer operates the tumblers properly.

I bought a new key cut with my key code and put a rag under the lock and sprayed cleaner in it to flush out the debris and then flooded it with lock lube.

When my steering lock is active I can’t turn the ignition switch until I move the steering wheel a little. This happens often enough I figure you had this happen a few time in 10 years of ownership.


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Thanks. I have had the steering wheel lock a few times in the past, but this isn't the same as that. I will have a new key cut with the VIN code and do a little spraying.
 
Your ignition lock cylinder is going bad. Mine completely stopped working and my key would not turn at all no matter what I did. I would recommend going to AutoZone and buying a Dorman ignition lock cylinder with two new keys included, that's the cheapest option. Also I would recommend doing it before your key stops turning because I had to drill my lock cylinder out because the key needs to be on the accessory setting to release the pin on the cylinder. The only thing is I now have two keys, one for the doors and one for the ignition. That's not a big deal if you have a key fob. If you want to keep your keys the same you can remove your ignition lock cylinder and take it to a locksmith and have the tumblers redone.
 
Thanks. I have had the steering wheel lock a few times in the past, but this isn't the same as that. I will have a new key cut with the VIN code and do a little spraying.



Put it to accessory and pull the entire lock drum out and clean it with spray until the plates operate freely when you put your key in and pull it out. They get full of grime. The tumbler plates don’t really ware out just get gummy.

I had to completely dismantle my drivers door lock to spray out the tumblers. I hate having two separate keys if I help it.


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I had this problem when I bought my 97. The ignition lock cylinder is a common issue with these trucks. I picked up an OEM lock cylinder and swapping it out took all of 10 minutes. It turns like butter now. I didn't go through the trouble of having the new cylinder keyed to match my locks, so I carry two keys... but you could get a locksmith (or your Toyota dealer) to do that for you if you wanted to retain the same key for everything.

There are threads on here on removing and installing the ILC if you need some help with it.
 
There are a few how too’s on the Internet and YouTube on rekeying a lock they are all about the same. I used that info to do mine


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[MENTION=44754]Wasatch Rebel[/MENTION], I have experienced what you describe with both my Runners 96Red 374k mi, 01 200k mi both still using original ignition lock. After trying WD40, graphite etc new key's cut from old. Once I had keys cut from VIN, Locksmith recommended 3 in 1 Dry Lock Lube which I used locks are smooth as butter.
 
I get this every once in a while, so adding this to the list of to-do's. Thanks for the link [MENTION=83823]CdaleR4000si[/MENTION]! :mullet:
 
Somewhere I sware I have a thread on repairing my drivers door lock. May be it was the first 4Runner I got. The 96 and my login.


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I take it this isn't a quick spritz of WD-40 can fix like it did for the exterior locks? Asking because mine is sometimes stiff.
 
[MENTION=44754]Wasatch Rebel[/MENTION], I have experienced what you describe with both my Runners 96Red 374k mi, 01 200k mi both still using original ignition lock. After trying WD40, graphite etc new key's cut from old. Once I had keys cut from VIN, Locksmith recommended 3 in 1 Dry Lock Lube which I used locks are smooth as butter.
Thanks!
 
No. I tried that.



Pull out the lock barrel with your old key while it still works and get a new key cut off the key code.

Spray the barrel with brake cleaner and put the new key in and out until all the plates operate easy and crisply without sticking. Using lock lube after no more dirt comes out of the lock with brake cleaner. I sprayed in the key hole to flood it and then ran my new key in and out.

If you can’t get this to happen then it’s already out and you can get a new ignition lock and either install it with the key they give you or get the new lock keyed to your new key you just got cut. I’ve always been able to get a new cut key to work. Two 4Runners and 2 S Series Saturn’s.


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