KidV's 1985 4Runner

To test your broken wire, turn the key on and have someone touch the wire to the t-stat housing. If your temp gauge sweeps or the idiot light flickers then bingo. It works as a switch or resisted ground so you you wont hurt anything doing this.
 
Its a coolant temp sensor, they had a 2 wire and a 1 wire assuming for non-sr5 and sr5 clusters. They sell replacements that just have a male spade. Put a female spade on your wire and be done with it.
 
Its a coolant temp sensor, they had a 2 wire and a 1 wire assuming for non-sr5 and sr5 clusters. They sell replacements that just have a male spade. Put a female spade on your wire and be done with it.

That's exactly what I'm going to do. I thought about a trip to the junkyard, but that's a lot of work and trudging around in the mud for a silly little connector.
 
I could be wrong but I think that green square plug is for the IACV. If not then I am not sure. I have one square plug on my wiring harness that is not connected to anything and I just hid it under the upper intake plenum.

For your broken wire... Look in the plug itself. There is a tab that holds in the terminal. Pull out the terminal and re-solder the wire to it. I wouldn't use any female spade connector, it's not my style of maintenance. Plus, factory plugs look and secure better than a spade connector.
 
Did you ever find where that black plug went? I think that neither the black or the green one go there. I think they both go to the front of the motor under the throttlebody ish area.. What other plugs are on that part of the harness?

This is why we tell people to take pictures first... Haha. I did the same thing changing motors.. label.. take good pics... crap, where does this go!
 
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Did you ever find where that black plug went?

This is why we tell people to take pictures first... Haha. I did the same thing changing motors.. label.. take good pics... crap, where does this go!

The black one goes to the plenum. The green one apparently goes nowhere.

So - got the truck buttoned up this morning, emptied the tank and filled it with 10 gallons of fresh gas and a couple bottles of Heet, went to start it, and ... *click*.

Battery voltage is solid, and a jump didn't help. Jumping the solenoid straight to the battery stud gets me a nice solid *klunk* from the solenoid, but no crank.

If it isn't one thing it's another :lmao:. Tomorrow I'll start checking power and ground connections. I have another starter if it comes to that, but I can't imagine the starter dying like that. Unless it was on it's way out anyway and didn't like the fresh juice coming off my relay I moved over. I dunno, I'll figure it out tomorrow. I pulled a bunch of stuff off and out of the way when I took the fuel filter out, I'm hoping I just forgot to put something back. I don't want to pull that starter if I don't have to - on the manual, there's clutch crap right in the way, and the '85 has a shock tower right there that the '86 didn't have too. It won't be nearly as easy as I'm used to. I hate not easy.
 
FECK.

Goddammit, I have learned a lesson today. I learned it the hard way, like all the lessons I learn. Would you like to know what lesson I learned? I learned that when Nate tells you a dead cylinder and a popping sound at the exhaust is a sign of a bad valve, you should ignore that little voice in your head telling you what you WANT the trouble to be and LISTEN TO NATE GODDAMIT.

Goddammit.

I got the injectors back in and buttoned it up yesterday, and got the dreaded solenoid KLUNK. The wires checked out, so I replaced the starter (not nearly as easy on this truck as it was on my '86 - there's clutch lines and a shock tower in the way). It fired right up again after putting my other starter in, but that cylinder is still missing. If anything, it's running rougher (probably because the other cylinders are firing stronger with fresh injectors! :lmao:).

So first thing tomorrow morning, I'm going to borrow another compression tester and noid set from another store so that I know for sure they're working, just because I want to know for sure what I'm looking at and I need to rule out bad injector wiring. Then the head is coming off, and while it's off I'll put my other cam in to give the motor a little more pep.

Did I say goddammit yet? I'm gonna say it again anyway, goddammit.

GODDAMMIT.
 
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well that's exciting. sorry to hear that.
its probably a valve... but try the leak down test again and make sure to remove the schrader valve in the bottom this time. you'll know exactly where your leak is :/

at least this means you can port your head :)
 
I always use that as an excuse...like my turbo blew up on the other car. I was happy because then I had to get a bigger one.

I just use a die grinder and port it out a bit followed by a polishing. but I suppose there's really no need. I just do it because its there.
 
I don't enjoy being right all the time.... ah who am I kidding, I love being right! Unless it cost me more money. There is still a .05% chance that im wrong.
 
I was wrong once. But then I realized that I was only wrong by thinking that I was wrong in the first place, so I wasn't really wrong.
 
I thought about that right after I returned the tester, so I'll borrow it again in the morning. I'm afraid it's going to tell me the rings on the other pistons are bad, and if that's the case I'm gonna park it until I'm ready for my motor swap. I might swap it out for another 22re if I can find one the right price.
 
So. No compression on that cylinder 2 at all. Very low compression on the others, from 40-60 psi. When I shoot air into them, I can hear it in the intake and feel maybe a bit coming out the exhaust. A little piece of lightweight plastic bag laid over the top of the dipstick hole doesn't budge, and a glug of oil added to the cylinders adds maybe 5 psi to the compression test, if that - do I dare assume that the rings are in at least useable condition?

If there's a good chance the rings are ok, I'm just going to throw a new head at it. If I have to do the rings too, I'll consider snagging a used block. What do you guys think?
 
Oh, and just so that I can keep calling this a build thread, I scored a set of 3" front springs and a 4.7 case today. Those will be going on just as soon as I get this motor issue squared away.
 
Oh, and just so that I can keep calling this a build thread, I scored a set of 3" front springs and a 4.7 case today. Those will be going on just as soon as I get this motor issue squared away.

Since you're not going to use that 4.7 case you might as well just send it my way. :D
 
sounds like your rings are fine. since you tested on a cold engine, adding oil just made up the extra pre-expansion seal. (I love making up terms)

is there any valve adjustment to be done on the 22re?
 

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