KO2 vs Big O Bigfoot

[KidVermicious]

they are so even in my daily use for snow and very mild off road that it comes down to personal reviews by forum members.

In that case, go with the P tires. They're likely less expensive.

And yeah, bigger wheels suck for prices, which is stupid because it's less rubber. I've got 17s on the pickup and am considering going to 16s - two sets of new tires and the new wheels would pay for themselves!

 

[NoDak]

In that case, go with the P tires. They're likely less expensive.

And yeah, bigger wheels suck for prices, which is stupid because it's less rubber. I've got 17s on the pickup and am considering going to 16s - two sets of new tires and the new wheels would pay for themselves!

its not the pricing, its the lack of selection. there is only 1-2 AT tires that fit that stupid 7" rim and 1 is the oem tire which is ok at best in the 1-2 years you have that tire. going on 3rd year with this tire and it sucks balls.

they are down to 1/4 tread left (just hit 24k miles on them) and they scream making any sharp turn.

I would love to get some 17's but leary as I don't want to spend the money and find out they wont fit the 6th gen's.

I am pretty sure Toyota will keep the 6x139 format but again its a gamble that I don't want to take until I know for sure.

 

[KidVermicious]

I am pretty sure Toyota will keep the 6x139 format but again its a gamble that I don't want to take until I know for sure.

/rich people problems

 

[NoDak]

this is my problem. tirerack has P rated duratrac's, discount only have C rated duratracs and KO2's.

discout is running $258 for duratracs and $219 for KO2.


.

 

[JB.]

I have never seen any real proof of this and the manufacturers say it is not true. Now they may say its not true because they want to limit liability or sell c rated tires, but my thinking is in line with theirs and that is protection in any tire is a factor of the rubber on the side wall, not the load rating or ply rating which are strictly in relation to weight.

I would love to have a link to said manufacturer statement.

The load range spec is about containing air pressure.

I'll leave it to you to decide whether the extra strength needed to resist higher internal pressure translates into any extra ability to resist external pressure.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/989511-post11.html

 

[Muddy Duck]

I want to go back to the SR5 17's but man its expensive to swap rims and tires at the same time.

Check with your dealership. I dropped by mine in NC and he had several sets of FJ and 4R wheels from where people bought new and wanted different wheels. I picked up a set of almost new (only drove the Trail off the truck) 17x7.5 wheels for a few hundred bucks. I paid less for the set than the sticker price for one.

 

[willbgood]

I would love to have a link to said manufacturer statement.

The load range spec is about containing air pressure.

I'll leave it to you to decide whether the extra strength needed to resist higher internal pressure translates into any extra ability to resist external pressure.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/989511-post11.html

Ah not that makes perfect sense to me, we need a tire that can withstand increased internal air pressure so when we air down our tires they will provide extra strength...got it.

To you, I say the same, show how a tires ability to withstand higher loads, and thereby higher internal air pressure translate to higher external puncture resistance. That belief is a fallacy of correlation. If it was true, racer would not be racing off-road on P and C rated tires. Nor would any company offer them for racing off-road.

An e rated tire of the same style and brand,will puncture just as efficiently as a c or p rated...the only way you add puncture resistance is by adding rubber or Kevlar.

 

[TPH4R]

20s is a tough size, I was greatful that my Tundra had 18s. From experience the KO2 is/was a great all round tire, daily driving / weekend off roading and pulling a trailer, the wear was consistent. Snowflake rating gives you a discount with most insurance companies up here. Might get a great deal finding some OEM T4R take offs that someone is selling / looking to get rid of.

 

[NoDak]

thanks for the info folks.

 

[vailTRD]

Don't let the fact that everyone on this forum loves BFG KO2's and raves about them make your decision for you. The "E" rated tires are way overkill for 99% of the driving the average person does on a daily basis. They are way too stiff, people just don't want to admit it. People buy KO2's simply for the looks, even though they will justify purchasing them since they "go camping" or "fishing in remote areas", "hunting in the back woods", etc. Truth is the ride is much better with a "P" rated tire or even "c" rated. Check out tires such as Firestone destination AT, Cooper AT3, Nitto grapplers, Toyo, etc. They ride so much better and perform just as well. Don't make a $1000 mistake just because everyone on the forum has KO2's and the obligatory TRD rims. If you drive off road in the desert all day or climb rocky mountain trails to get to work, then by all means get some "E" rated 10 ply tires.

If he's driving any of the trails im driving, which is very likely being we live in the same valley, i recommend way against the big foot's. absolutely no side wall which is a must for trails around here. unless you want an uncomfortable ride in the back country, you gotta air down to 15-20 psi. can't do that with the big foots.
For Colorado if you do a lot of daily driving and a fair amount of wheeling, myself and a lot of close wheeling buddies run Duratracs. For Colorado, if you do more severe wheeling and less road driving, go with the mt/r kevlars. Just my $.02

Edit: should add that i've always run D rated tires. Have done trails from Holy Cross to Spring Creek to Chinaman Gulch and never (knock on wood) blown a tire. Blew a stock dunflop on my 4runner with less than 200 miles on the odo while running ptarmigan pass over off shrine pass. dont remember what they were rated but thats kind of irrelevant since they were road tires.

 

[LightRanger]

OP, if I was you, I'd be choosing between the KO2 and Cooper ATw for snow traction purposes. Load rating should be based on your intended use, but those are tops among AT tires for winter use in latest reviews. See:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHePafFRBNc

Here's a good comparison thread on Mud:
New cooper atw vs bf Goodrich ko2 | IH8MUD Forum

 

[willbgood]

I hate it, but I have to eat Crow...

But realize that the 10 ply rating offers no more or less resistance to puncture that the c rated tires, ply rating is actually a weight rating and Toyota are to light for e, Unless you drive 70 in the desert on washboards, they are overkill. or load several tons. e are not any better than the c rated for our light duty vehicles.

I did some checking over the last few days including contacting manufactures, and techs I know. E rated tires, at a lower pressure, do offer more sidewall strength and protection, simply because the are thicker in the sidewall. One stated he believe the ply's were about the same, but it was added rubber over, and in-between the ply's, that give extra strength.

Everyone I spoke to said Kevlar is lizard piss and offers no more sidewall protection then any other tire ply. All said Kevlar might offer more protection at high speeds torsional, but it really has not been tested and proven. One also said a Kevlar tire my come out in the future that actually is mill spec, but as yet, no commercially available tire is, (and he sells the Kevlar brand).

They all said, with an e rating, you loose ride comfort and some control at highway speeds, but this is minor, compared to gains off road, and especially if you are in rocky or cherty terrain. Both manufacturers stated that running their tire at a lower pressure than their max pressure was fine, but stated they did not recommend below 35-40, except off road. The techs like the KO2 because of the fact that when you air it down, its tread print increases, even over their brand...the manufacturers, well they are manufacturers, so they like their brand.

I asked about the fact that many off road racing tires are c or p rated and they said that is true, but they are really think rubber, being used on lightened vehicles, trying to shed weight, not gain it, and the tires don't last very long either and on pavement they don't last long enough even to be considered for highway use.

So, I bow humbly, eat my crow, and will go buy e rated tires.

 

[TBuzz]

Not sure how I found my way here(secretly looking at a 10 TE). This video shows a direct correlation between air pressure and puncture resistance. I do have the st maxx e rated and they are entirely fine for me. But my truck is heavier than some and suspension issue upgraded so it rides like a caddy. I am getting the KO2 for my DD 03 tundra. I am certain the KO2 tread is better on ice than the st, although they have been fine I don't drive like an idiot.

 

[KidVermicious]

Not sure how I found my way here(secretly looking at a 10 TE). This video shows a direct correlation between air pressure and puncture resistance. I do have the st maxx e rated and they are entirely fine for me. But my truck is heavier than some and suspension issue upgraded so it rides like a caddy. I am getting the KO2 for my DD 03 tundra. I am certain the KO2 tread is better on ice than the st, although they have been fine I don't drive like an idiot.

Fixed that for ya. Cool vid.

 

[willbgood]

So, who makes the bigfoot tire?

Does anyone know? I was stunned...

I do, but I ain't saying yet. I am trying to get Big O to fund a puncture test...if they do I will video and post the results here.

 

[veloindy]

Does anyone know? I was stunned...

I do, but I ain't saying yet.

I thought it was Cooper.