Kraze's Mall Crawler build thread

[Kraze]

The only vehicle we had to turn around and go back for on Saturday was a Jeep... just sayin'.

Connor, do you have a SWR meter? I want to add a spring to mine, but would probably need to tune it again if I did that since it would be a couple inches taller. I'm not even sure it's tuned now to be honest. I can't seem to understand half of what comes through on it haha.

Oh, and I don't have a Christmas tree, but I'll see if I can scrounge some wood to bring. :eyebrows: ound:

 

[4x4runner2002]

The only vehicle we had to turn around and go back for on Saturday was a Jeep... just sayin'.

Connor, do you have a SWR meter? I want to add a spring to mine, but would probably need to tune it again if I did that since it would be a couple inches taller. I'm not even sure it's tuned now to be honest. I can't seem to understand half of what comes through on it haha.

i have one you guys could use if you want that friday. but they are pretty cheap too.

 

[Kraze]

i have one you guys could use if you want that friday. but they are pretty cheap too.

Awesome, that would work out well. I bet we could find a good spot to tune them out there easier than we could out here too lol.

 

[4Running Daily]

Awesome, that would work out well. I bet we could find a good spot to tune them out there easier than we could out here too lol.

I have one too.

Water tower line to that peak = great place.

 

[seanxgodfrey]

What is your opinion on not running sway bars.. I've heard both sides, but they just are a hassle.

 

[Broker]

So lot's of recovery practice?

Looks like I have to go to this now... Better go take those days off... and tune my CB before then.

I hear there are actually decent 4x4 trails out there too. I hope someone gets stuck good because I want to try out my winch. If someone else doesn't get stuck I'll have to just bury myself in the sand and practice a self recovery.

Also I feel we need a SoCal bs thread cause we just clustering Kraze's build thread.

 

[Kraze]

I have one too.

Water tower line to that peak = great place.

That's probably true. Is that where you plan to tune yours?

What is your opinion on not running sway bars.. I've heard both sides, but they just are a hassle.

Front sway bar: Barely noticed a difference when I unhooked it but still had the rear sway bar on.

Rear sway bar: Wow. Huge difference, since now both were unhooked. I get a ton of body roll. If the 4runner was my DD, I'd hook the front back up to see if it helped out any, since I can't hook the rear back up due to it grinding on the e-locker housing. I'd look for quick disconnects for the links though.

Off-roading with no sway bars is awesome, however. It flexes noticeably easier, which is certainly nice. There's often windy roads to get to some of the good wheeling spots though, and on those windy roads, I hate not having sway bars. It was fun for a bit when I first unhooked them, now it's just annoying haha.

I hear there are actually decent 4x4 trails out there too. I hope someone gets stuck good because I want to try out my winch. If someone else doesn't get stuck I'll have to just bury myself in the sand and practice a self recovery.

Also I feel we need a SoCal bs thread cause we just clustering Kraze's build thread.

If you really need someone to get stuck out there, I can go try something stupid :thumb:

As for the SoCal BS thread, that would be nice! I don't mind the thread clutter though. Let's face it, there's not much building going on in this thread currently haha.

 

[Broker]

If you really need someone to get stuck out there, I can go try something stupid :thumb:

As for the SoCal BS thread, that would be nice! I don't mind the thread clutter though. Let's face it, there's not much building going on in this thread currently haha.

You have more build in your build thread then I do. Where I had my build got hacked and basicly my whole build was deleted so I gave up keeping track.

I also agree on sway bars. It's nice having them off offroad, but my runner is pretty scary on hardtop. I plan to add one back in the rear once I do LT out back.

 

[Kraze]

It's recently been brought to my attention (by myself at first, but then others joined in) that no actual building occurs in this here build thread. Well I am about to change that. I have developed something never-before-seen to 4runners. Something so innovative and mind-blowing, that it is going to change the way we think about suspension!

You guys know how girls look in the mirror and obsess over what they fear to be an enlarging and drooping back end? Well, I've been doing almost the exact same thing with my 4runner lately--looking at the ass end and thinking it's way too high to still be desirable.

First step to remedy this problem, find an accurate and repeatable way to measure the height of the back end. Here's my solution:



What you do is stick a magnet grabber right above the fender at a set distance from the door, in this case 5.5 inches, and then you do this:



Measure from the ground up to the magnet grabber. Initial measurements were: Right side - 45.75 Left side - 46.25

Once you have your initial measurements, you go from this:



To this:



Measurements after about 300 pounds or so of weight in the back: R - 44.75 L - 46

That's not going to be enough, so then you do this:



That's not an empty cooler there folks. That's a 70 quart cooler filled with water, which if you figure I probably only filled it up with about 60 quarts, that's 15 gallons which is about 125 pounds. You can see I kind of put it off to one side, that's because I wasn't thinking when I put the weights in, and put the heavier weights all on the same side, and I'm way too lazy to go rearranging them now. Oh well. Measurements after the water were: R - 44.25 L - 44.9

I still did not feel like that got the back end down far enough though, so I went all out and did this:



Measurements after strapping down the rear end: R - 44.25 L - 44.25

Nice and even!

Here's the progression of heights, but easier to follow.

R 45.75 L 46.25
R 44.75 L 46
R 44.25 L 44.9
R 44.25 L 44.25

The plan is to leave the 4runner like that for a couple days, and hope that when all that junk is removed, the back end will have permanently sagged a little. Note: I have no illusions about this actually being successful. I fully expect to have completely wasted my time on this, but at least I can feel like I did something to try and get the back end lower.

While I was busy measuring things, I decided to measure my tires. They came out to just a bit above 33 inches. Then I decided to measure my roommates almost new 285/75 Falken Wild Peaks, and they came out to just a tad above 31 inches. I do not think this proves a thing, but it was interesting nonetheless.

What I measured next with the tape measure, we will not talk about... :redface: Because the tape measure wasn't long enough. :naughty:

Oh, and I did get this in today:



:rockon:

 

[4Running Daily]

:rockon:

Sparknotes for those that hate effort and reading.

 

[J-money$$$]

While I was busy measuring things, I decided to measure my tires. They came out to just a bit above 33 inches. Then I decided to measure my roommates almost new 285/75 Falken Wild Peaks, and they came out to just a tad above 31 inches. I do not think this proves a thing, but it was interesting nonetheless.

THIS is something many people dont ever think about. BFGs run small. I had 33" km2's that were 31"
My goodyear MTRs measured exactly 35" on the truck. They were the same height as my buddies 37's....


Bfg 285-75r16 next to a MTR 315-75r16. 33" to 35" supposedly 2" taller but the MTRs are about 4" taller

 

[Kraze]

THIS is something many people dont ever think about. BFGs run small. I had 33" km2's that were 31"
My goodyear MTRs measured exactly 35" on the truck. They were the same height as my buddies 37's....

Yeah I knew the KM2s run small, and will probably switch to something else when they wear out. MTRs are high on the list, especially if they measured 35" while on the truck.

My measurement wasn't all that accurate, however. I just eyeballed it real quick, and my tire pressure is pretty low so they're probably a bit taller. Either way, they're not true 35s.

Are you running 315/75/16s or are you on 17" wheels and running actual 35s?

Edit: You answered my question while I was typing haha. Wow, that's quite the difference!

Anyone know if Pitbull Rockers measure out to a true 35"? [MENTION=62779]Kurtis[/MENTION] ? I know you've loved yours so far.

 

[J-money$$$]

I think the pitbulls are close, But they are super wide. Nice tires but the price has gone up on them

 

[Kurtis]

Yeah I knew the KM2s run small, and will probably switch to something else when they wear out. MTRs are high on the list, especially if they measured 35" while on the truck.

My measurement wasn't all that accurate, however. I just eyeballed it real quick, and my tire pressure is pretty low so they're probably a bit taller. Either way, they're not true 35s.

Are you running 315/75/16s or are you on 17" wheels and running actual 35s?

Edit: You answered my question while I was typing haha. Wow, that's quite the difference!

Anyone know if Pitbull Rockers measure out to a true 35"? [MENTION=62779]Kurtis[/MENTION] ? I know you've loved yours so far.

PBR are true or better. Mine when new were 35 1/4". 37s are dead on. All tires are going to squat a little when they are on the truck. I think mine around 34ish from the ground to the top of tire with 34 PSI with the weight of the truck on it.

Check this out: http://pitbulltires.com/downloads/PBSPEC2.pdf

 

[TCMach]

[MENTION=91297]Kraze[/MENTION] hurry up and install that locker. I want to know how it ends up driving with your ADD disabling mod. From what I've read when you disable it you will get 3wd allowing you to turn on trails. Also if it changes your streetability. I really dont want to have to get manual hubs....

 

[Kraze]

PBR are true or better. Mine when new were 35 1/4". 37s are dead on. All tires are going to squat a little when they are on the truck. I think mine around 34ish from the ground to the top of tire with 34 PSI with the weight of the truck on it.

Check this out: http://pitbulltires.com/downloads/PBSPEC2.pdf

Awesome, thanks for the info. I won't be needing new tires for a little while, so that should give me enough time to come to a decision and save up the money.

[MENTION=91297]Kraze[/MENTION] hurry up and install that locker. I want to know how it ends up driving with your ADD disabling mod. From what I've read when you disable it you will get 3wd allowing you to turn on trails. Also if it changes your streetability. I really dont want to have to get manual hubs....

The locker should be going in this weekend. I'm heading up to the high desert for a buddy's wedding, but will hopefully have enough time to do the locker too. The only problem is going to be finding a good place to put it through it's paces. There's always Isham Canyon...


(The good part starts at about 4:20)

I really don't think the 4runner would make it through there though--not with me driving, or a whole ton of body damage haha. I'll find something good to test it out on though and give you a review.

 

[Kraze]

:hiding:

 

[Snowy21]

Let me know what you think of the front locker, I just bought one for my truck and have the ADD on a switch so I'm hopeful it won't kill my turning radius and breakage won't go up that much.

 

[MStudt]

Nice build. Can't wait to see those double disconnects installed!

 

[Kraze]

I finally have enough time to go into some more detail about the Aussie install, and give some first impressions for those that were curious.

First up, the install. It actually went pretty smoothly... after I got in touch with [MENTION=32837]J-money$$$[/MENTION] and he gave me some much needed guidance. I was pretty much trying to do things the exact wrong way for a while. I don't know if it was solely the fact that I was in a hungover, no-sleep stupor for the whole install, but I thought the instructions sucked. Even the supplemental instructions that are specifically for the Toyota IFS listed steps that weren't even possible.

So for those that aren't familiar with differentials, here's the things that I think you need to know, courtesy of J-money explaining them to me (I had searched high and low on the internet before calling him trying to find this info and had no luck).

First step is obviously to get the diff out (this won't be a step by step thing, I'm just highlighting the parts where I got hung up on), and once you do that, and you take the cover off, you're left with this:



You'll notice that the cover is stuck on to the carrier because of this coarse cut gear that you see in this picture:



To get that off, take two pry bars, or a pry bar and a big flat head to it, and just pry it up and out. It's held in with the exact same little snap ring that holds your CVs in, so that's what you're working against.

For me, the best way to actually get it out was putting a flat head right where the red dot is in this picture and giving it a good whack with a hammer. It popped right out when I tried that. I don't know if this is possible with the ring gear on, though. I had already taken mine off, with the cover still on (like a dummy :frusty, so YMMV.



The race might come off with that gear (mine did), so just make sure you get that back in there tight if it does come out.

So now you have to punch out the pin that holds the cross shaft in. DO NOT PUNCH IT OUT THE WAY IN THIS PICTURE:



I know, I know, that side has a dimple in it and the other side looks like a perfect circle, so it would make perfect sense for it to punch out that way, but it doesn't. That other side tapers down, and it will not come out that way. I broke 4 punches trying to punch it out that way (and before someone says something, no I didn't try using a punch as small as the one in the picture, that one was just for demonstration purposes haha), and had a hell of a time getting it out the right way since I did that.

So, just for clarification, this is the right way:



So once that cross shaft is out, the spider gears can come out and you can start on putting the locker of your choice in. Just a quick note about putting in the locker: One side of the window on the carrier is bigger than the other, so if it seems like all the pieces for the locker won't fit in, just keep trying different ways. As J-money put it, it's like a puzzle.

On to the first impressions. I didn't get a chance to really put it to the test, but I did do a bit of wheeling so here's what I've noticed so far.

It's actually quieter than I expected. You can hear it from inside the cab when it ratchets, but it's really not bad at all. I'm using cheap 85w-140, for reference.

It definitely makes a difference on steep hill climbs where there's ton of loose rock and gravel. I was able to just maintain a steady, slow speed going up them, where as before I would have to get a running start and hit them pretty fast.

There was only one rock (that I call the poser rock, because it's only good for getting poser pictures on) on the whole trip but it definitely walked right up it this time, where as before I would have to bump it up over this ledge to make it.

Most of my wheeling time with it so far has been in the dirt, and I never felt the need to use my ADD switch to unlock the passenger side. You can definitely feel a difference in the steering, but the turning radius wasn't too bad in the dirt for what I was doing. I'm sure that will change once I get out to somewhere like Cougar Buttes where there's a lot of rocks that have a ton of grip.

Oh, and I had to pull out my buddy's Jeep twice on this little off-road excursion :rockon:



Believe it or not, there is a 4runner and a Jeep in that incredibly dark photo.