LawnDart's Build Thread

Quit being pussies and just pull the sway bars already. Unless you plan the run a RTT and 20 gal of fuel in jerry cans up top full time, the body roll really isn't that bad. The reality is that most of us with significantly upgraded suspensions (read: icon, Radflo, King, Fox etc) run stiff enough springs to mitigate most of the side-to-side anyway. These aren't race cars, and you're not Michael Schumacher.

Lol, once I get some 700# springs up front and some overland Icons out back, the sway bars are definitely coming off, at least to say I did.

Also, I may not be Michael Schumacher but could probably make Ken Block nervous. :lookout:
 
Lol, once I get some 700# springs up front and some overland Icons out back, the sway bars are definitely coming off, at least to say I did.

Also, I may not be Michael Schumacher but could probably make Ken Block nervous. :lookout:

I'm running 650s and Metaltech's LT medium rear with 120lbs of group 31/34 batteries, a winch with cable, storage drawers with probably 60lb of tools/recovery gear, and a 10lb ABC ;)You may want an extra pair of scooby-doo underoos for the first couple curves on the highway at speed, but after that it's nothing.

(/end. return to LT building goodness)
 
Last edited:
Cam tabs are going on, and so is new gears and axles. We should start seeing this thing on all fours early this coming week. Walt is spending his weekend working on the truck, which is awesome. I owe him a ton of scotch as thanks.

14572961_10155240139784186_7743457557159231914_n.jpg


14595650_10155240139869186_6747063209715262757_n.jpg


14523298_10155240140179186_7343544476047709912_n.jpg
 
The welds on those cam tabs look awesome. It's almost a shame they'll be out of sight!

Are you planning/have you thought about installing the ECGS bushing in place of the OEM needle bearing in the front differential while everything's apart? It seems to be more of an issue with Tacomas but I think there are a few folks on here who have installed it in the 4Runner ( [MENTION=76550]cbielat[/MENTION] has, and maybe [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION]?).
 
Last edited:
The welds on those cam tabs look awesome. It's almost a shame they'll be out of sight!

Are you planning/have you thought about installing the ECGS bushing in place of the OEM needle bearing in the front differential while everything's apart? It seems to be more of an issue with Tacomas but I think there are a few folks on here who have installed it in the 4Runner ( [MENTION=76550]cbielat[/MENTION] has, and maybe [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION]?).

They have ARB locker which replaces the entire carrier.. so no more needle bearings or issues related to it. The only things stock left with an ARB is the outer shell/housing.

Is this build not getting front locker? Say it is not so!
 
They have ARB locker which replaces the entire carrier.. so no more needle bearings or issues related to it. The only things stock left with an ARB is the outer shell/housing.

Is this build not getting front locker? Say it is not so!

Nittro 4.88s and keeping the E Locker in the rear but going ARB air locker in front.
 
4.88? I see 35"s in your future

Look at the photo I posted of the truck showing the droop (FYI that was before the anti rock install and had the factory sway bars installed so we're getting more usable travel now) but that's on 35s with the rock monsters.
 
Did you have them set the alignment tabs towards the outboard? Easy way to gain a little extra caster

Good call! I've been thinking about this for a while...

Can you specify how much outboard position you went with. ... I think it is key to running more tire.... It's one of those little secrets I wish people would be more open about.

What typically happens to gain caster and get the lower ball as forward as possible is you push the rear LCA outboard and the front inboard. But since the lower ball is moving in an arc... It becomes too inboard to keep camber in spec. If both cam tabs are biased a bit outboard... This can make up for it buy getting the lower ball back out some, but how much is a hard call. I've been thinking about this problem for a while and I think it is key to running more tire. That or going with heim joints on the UCAs that will let you pull the upper ball joints inboard some.

The other factor at play is the longer arms with LT. You naturally get more ability to get the wheels forward because of the longer arm. The problem is.. once you weld it on.. There is not really any going back. Well. At least not easily. And you have to weld it all up to figure out where your alignment sits. I was actually thinking about tack welding it at first and seeing If I can maintain reasonable camber with caster near max. I don't have access to a machine but I can measure camber pretty accurately in my garage....
 
Good call! I've been thinking about this for a while...

Can you specify how much outboard position you went with. ... I think it is key to running more tire.... It's one of those little secrets I wish people would be more open about.

IIRC i think it was ~1/4" (only slightly more than what LawnDart is showing here), I don't have a great photo but there was a fair bit of material we had to take out with a die grinder to get frame to the same profile as tab gusset hole
 
IIRC i think it was ~1/4" (only slightly more than what LawnDart is showing here), I don't have a great photo but there was a fair bit of material we had to take out with a die grinder to get frame to the same profile as tab gusset hole

What I'm reall stoked to see is the bucket tower gussets and shook hoops go in. Most of this work won't be really noticeable when it's all installed but I appreciate walts attention to detail. I can weld and learned in college but no way I'd attempt this.
 
What I'm reall stoked to see is the bucket tower gussets and shook hoops go in. Most of this work won't be really noticeable when it's all installed but I appreciate walts attention to detail. I can weld and learned in college but no way I'd attempt this.

welds on the alignment tabs look great. nice to see someone who was tig properly for sure. I've thought about the tower and spindle gussets too. like anything else, all the hard work is always under cover
 
welds on the alignment tabs look great. nice to see someone who was tig properly for sure. I've thought about the tower and spindle gussets too. like anything else, all the hard work is always under cover

Yeah and the spindle gussets too. We basically just went all out. Better to do it right the first time. I think.
 
IIRC i think it was ~1/4" (only slightly more than what LawnDart is showing here), I don't have a great photo but there was a fair bit of material we had to take out with a die grinder to get frame to the same profile as tab gusset hole

Yea, the ones pictured here are in the stock position.... you can tell by looking at the back side.. I was thinking 3/16...

So what setup do you have and how much caster did you get. Where are your cam tabs set.....
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,075
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top