LBJ Uniball?

[WeakSauz]

[MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] [MENTION=279370]WeakSauz[/MENTION]

I assume you'd still want to use the FSM torque spec for these stronger bolts since the knuckle threads would now be the weak link?

(Anonymous Fab says the are for 2000-2002 model years, so 59 ft/lbs)

I just went to 60ft/lbs on my ARPs and called it there. (with blue loctite). Basically like factory

 

[JZiggy]

[MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] [MENTION=279370]WeakSauz[/MENTION]

I assume you'd still want to use the FSM torque spec for these stronger bolts since the knuckle threads would now be the weak link?

(Anonymous Fab says the are for 2000-2002 model years, so 59 ft/lbs)

Personally I would use whatever torque ARP suggests for the fastener. The strength of the bolt matters as does the coating (COF can change what is needed).

The threaded portion can be weaker since there's more area bearing the load. If that wasn't the case we could never torque steel fasteners to their proof load into aluminum housings. In this case it's still forged steel so the threads should be quite strong.

 

[shadow247]

Personally I would use whatever torque ARP suggests for the fastener. The strength of the bolt matters as does the coating (COF can change what is needed).

The threaded portion can be weaker since there's more area bearing the load. If that wasn't the case we could never torque steel fasteners to their proof load into aluminum housings. In this case it's still forged steel so the threads should be quite strong.

For the Stainless bolts 763-1003- 180k Psi - the torque is 54 Ft Lbs.

 

[octanejunkie]

Given the different materials (SS vs CroMo) and the 663-1003 chromoly bolts being stronger and half the cost, any reason not to buy them instead of SS?

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[infamousRNR]

I received my set a couple weeks ago, they look solid. I also got the updated ARP bolts. My wheeling style is crazy and I don't live in the salt belt so we will see how the uni-ball lives in a temperate climate (Bay Area).

For those concerned about the uniball needing service, it can be replaced, which means the initial cost of entry is high, but overall maintenance could be less than replacing OEM LBJ's more frequently.

Josh does some great work putting these together and the quality shows when you inspect these - now to put them to the test!!




.

 

[octanejunkie]

I received my set a couple weeks ago, they look solid. I also got the updated ARP bolts. My wheeling style is crazy and I don't live in the salt belt so we will see how the uni-ball lives in a temperate climate (Bay Area).



For those concerned about the uniball needing service, it can be replaced, which means the initial cost of entry is high, but overall maintenance could be less than replacing OEM LBJ's more frequently.



Josh does some great work putting these together and the quality shows when you inspect these - now to put them to the test!!









.

Nice Sean
You gonna boot them?

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[Devbot]

I have a set that’s pending install.

Uniball LBJ from Anonymous Fabrication | IFS OFFROAD

Out of curiosity are you still using the OEM hubs? I find it extremely odd the top cap interferes, and I'm really struggling to believe one would go through the effort of making these but not confirm it's fitment before selling and advertising them. Something seems funky

 

[Dezert4Runner]

Out of curiosity are you still using the OEM hubs? I find it extremely odd the top cap interferes, and I'm really struggling to believe one would go through the effort of making these but not confirm it's fitment before selling and advertising them. Something seems funky

I’m running stock hubs and spindles. Josh was running these and I got to see them in person before ever installing mine. His Tacoma is 2wd and has no CV’s in the equation, and the caps were pretty tight clearance wise. There’s not much room there between the spindle and 3d printed cap. Now add the cv outer dust seal and it gets even tighter. They were essentially being guinea pigged on his rig for a while before he started including them with purchases. I have no idea if other people were getting them before I picked mine up.

I could have made contact when tightening the cv nut and drawing that dust seal across the 3d cap. Who knows. I don’t really care if it’s there or not personally, so it was an easy decision to just leave them off. It’ll be way easier to lube the uniball without them being covered from the top anyways. Josh said he has to use a small paint brush from the bottom to get the uniball lubed, so even if the 3d caps fit, you’re sacrificing access to the uniball and stuff can still get in through the bottom if you’re in mud or water. It would really just be keeping the larger debris from sitting on top.

 

[octanejunkie]

I’m running stock hubs and spindles. Josh was running these and I got to see them in person before ever installing mine. His Tacoma is 2wd and has no CV’s in the equation, and the caps were pretty tight clearance wise. There’s not much room there between the spindle and 3d printed cap. Now add the cv outer dust seal and it gets even tighter. They were essentially being guinea pigged on his rig for a while before he started including them with purchases. I have no idea if other people were getting them before I picked mine up.



I could have made contact when tightening the cv nut and drawing that dust seal across the 3d cap. Who knows. I don’t really care if it’s there or not personally, so it was an easy decision to just leave them off. It’ll be way easier to lube the uniball without them being covered from the top anyways. Josh said he has to use a small paint brush from the bottom to get the uniball lubed, so even if the 3d caps fit, you’re sacrificing access to the uniball and stuff can still get in through the bottom if you’re in mud or water. It would really just be keeping the larger debris from sitting on top.

I've been running the Anonymous Fabrication LBJs for a while now with srlf-sourced ARP 663-1003 bolts.
Amazon.com: ARP (663-1003) Hex Oxide Bolt, Black : Automotive

These chromoly back oxide bolts are rated at 180,000 psi tensile strength, stainless steel (763-1003) are rated at 170,000 psi tensile strength. Both torque to 54 pounds feet according to ARP.

The caps Josh sent did not fit mine either, the CV dust shields wouldn't let the LBJ [emoji575]. I mic'd the center thickness of the cap at 2.7mm and sanded them down to 1mm thick so far... still a tight fit. I've been in communication with Josh about it and it's reasonable to run without the caps under normal conditions.

I am still pursuing alternative solutions and I suspect Josh is too. The caps are 3D printed, locally sourced and I hope to see a solution soon. While they are a tight fit, they are not watertight, so I would consider them an inspection point after submersion or prolonged extreme conditions, regardless.

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[beersyboy]

if you're in an area where you'll get sand, salt etc in them its just not worth it

 

[Devbot]

It would be interesting to see if a seal like this would work for the lower side of the uniball.

Boots, Rubber 7/8 Male and Female Rod Ends

So I got some of these to test out on my uniball set... 0/10 do not recommend, doesn't work at all. In fact I'm not seeing how they would work for anything since they require the uniball to be perfectly straight - if it moves at all, well, the "boot" just gets yanked along with it. Very weird considering this is what they're sold for, but I just cannot see any world in which they do anything in any application
If the uniball was fixed in place then they'd be awesome and fit perfectly

 

[JZiggy]

So I got some of these to test out on my uniball set... 0/10 do not recommend, doesn't work at all. In fact I'm not seeing how they would work for anything since they require the uniball to be perfectly straight - if it moves at all, well, the "boot" just gets yanked along with it. Very weird considering this is what they're sold for, but I just cannot see any world in which they do anything in any application
If the uniball was fixed in place then they'd be awesome and fit perfectly

Two more ideas... maybe a stock LBJ boot will swap over. Otherwise a universal poly one.

 

[jross20]

After reading through this, curious if you guys recommend swapping out the stock bolts with stronger ones for stock LBJ's?

 

[Devbot]

Two more ideas... maybe a stock LBJ boot will swap over. Otherwise a universal poly one.

This was my next attempt for sure, if I recall you can get even variety packs of generic "universal" boots with different sizes and whatnot. Just wanted to try the others first cause they were so dang cheap lol

 

[shadow247]

After reading through this, curious if you guys recommend swapping out the stock bolts with stronger ones for stock LBJ's?

It won't hurt. I did it on my rig, and a friends rig. I recommend it to everyone.

I don't see them being strong than the knuckle anyway. But we sure do see a lot of sheered bolts on the trail. I check mine every single time before I wheel.

 

[octanejunkie]

It won't hurt. I did it on my rig, and a friends rig. I recommend it to everyone.



I don't see them being strong than the knuckle anyway. But we sure do see a lot of sheered bolts on the trail. I check mine every single time before I wheel.

Define check them, like retorque?
Do you loctite em?

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[jross20]

It won't hurt. I did it on my rig, and a friends rig. I recommend it to everyone.

I don't see them being strong than the knuckle anyway. But we sure do see a lot of sheered bolts on the trail. I check mine every single time before I wheel.

What's the exact size? Where are you guys sourcing then from?

 

[octanejunkie]

What's the exact size? Where are you guys sourcing then from?

ARP (663-1003) Hex Oxide Bolt, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKA48F0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_6MRYEAZFSX778KTAW3DB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

SS is 763-1003

 

[Devbot]

I was gonna post the link to Anonymous Fab, but it seems they currently aren't offering the ARP bolts anymore despite me purchasing some a week ago. Very odd

 

[jross20]

ARP (663-1003) Hex Oxide Bolt, Black Amazon.com: ARP (663-1003) Hex Oxide Bolt, Black : Automotive

SS is 763-1003

Swood. And we're sure it doesn't hurt anything? Not trying to question anyone, just want to be careful since this is the Achilles heel for this generation lol.

And rather than make a whole new thread, while we're talking about it, are you guys swapping over to the tundra ball joint or just sticking with the oem 4runner one? My next swap out is coming up soon which is why I'm asking.