LBJ: What do you guys think?

alpine

New member
Trying to find out if it is normal for the arm to be greasy like this. Lifted the tire, tried pulling through the bottom, didn't look like it had any play inside. Boot seems to be intact.

Thanks for checking.

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Pulling on the bottom of the tire isn't going to tell you anything. You would need to put a pry bar In between the knuckle and ball joint. As if to spread the two. At 150k and at least 12 years old I'd replace them for peace of mind regardless.
 
Pulling on the bottom of the tire isn't going to tell you anything. You would need to put a pry bar In between the knuckle and ball joint. As if to spread the two. At 150k and at least 12 years old I'd replace them for peace of mind regardless.

x2. You got a good life out of them.
 
I have almost 200k on my rig, with no record of them ever being replaced. I didn't even for check for play...I just did them because they needed to be done.
 
LBJ = safety

I totally agree with Quadsbc. As the front BJ layout is a design weakness of the 3rd gen (and Taco), at 150K and 15>yrs, change them. There are many threads of LBJ failures here, especially if you're lifted(this puts more force on the LBJ), the most recent I've noticed:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/190498-another-one-bites-dust-lbj-failed-trail.html

I'd recommend replacing with OEM, they are a little more money, but this is a safety issue, so I view it as a must. It's an easy change if that's all you need to do, but I'd have a look at the OTRE's, ITRE's as well, if you've got the money--- all easy to do at the same time. If you don't change the TRE's, there's no need for an alignment. At this point someone is asking: what about the UBJ? Well, I'd definitely check for play--- if there's no evidence of play, how far do you go? Some will say change the upper and lower at the same time, but its a question of how far do you want to go? its also a question of time and $$... changing the UBJ is alot of work (you have to remove the drive shafts and wheel housing not to mention the press required to remove and install...)and its not the same potential safety issue as the LBJ.

Great threads on the LBJ issue:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/191198-why-do-our-lbjs-fail.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/149467-official-lower-ball-joint-write-up-thread.html

Finally, some may say if the joint generally lasts 15>yrs/150K mi, even if it theoretically is a potential safety issue, that's pretty bloody good!!!
 
so scareddd

I need to stay off this forum for awhile... I'm afraid to even drive my 4runner until I replace my LBJ's and radiator. I'm at 155,000 miles now and neither have been replaced. I feel like if I hadn't found this forum I would have driven it until something failed. Not to mention I lifted it at 145,000 miles and put nice duratracs on it, I'm terrified to go offroading with it anymore because as a college student I can't afford the expensive repairs if one of these things fails. So many concerns :(
 
I need to stay off this forum for awhile... I'm afraid to even drive my 4runner until I replace my LBJ's and radiator. I'm at 155,000 miles now and neither have been replaced. I feel like if I hadn't found this forum I would have driven it until something failed. Not to mention I lifted it at 145,000 miles and put nice duratracs on it, I'm terrified to go offroading with it anymore because as a college student I can't afford the expensive repairs if one of these things fails. So many concerns :(

You're better off spending $250 now and getting new lower ball joints and a separate transmission cooler. If either one fails you're looking at a lot more than that to fix. The transmission cooler is pretty easy to do. I did mine several months ago following one the write up. I haven't done my LBJ's yet, but mine were replaced in 05 under recall so mine are 10 years old and have maybe 120k on them. I plan to replace them soon, even though I'm not lifted yet.
 
I need to stay off this forum for awhile... I'm afraid to even drive my 4runner until I replace my LBJ's and radiator. I'm at 155,000 miles now and neither have been replaced. I feel like if I hadn't found this forum I would have driven it until something failed. Not to mention I lifted it at 145,000 miles and put nice duratracs on it, I'm terrified to go offroading with it anymore because as a college student I can't afford the expensive repairs if one of these things fails. So many concerns :(

Welcome to the world of lifted older used trucks!
 
If you do not know the history (when/if it was replaced or whether they used Moog, Toyota, Napa) then you should replace with OEM Toyota. Simple as that. LBJ failure can happen without warning and it can kill you or someone else. Don't mess around.
 
It's pretty easy to do! I did it just have the right tools tons of info on what tools you need I did my cv axle and LBJ under 1hr or so. I'm not very mechanically inclined either!
 
Trying to find out if it is normal for the arm to be greasy like this. Lifted the tire, tried pulling through the bottom, didn't look like it had any play inside. Boot seems to be intact.

Thanks for checking.

The boot is leaking. The grease that lubricates the ball joint is come out from the boot, which is normal enough for almost 20 year old rubber. Once all the grease leaves the boot though, the ball joint will wear much faster.
 
If you do not know the history (when/if it was replaced or whether they used Moog, Toyota, Napa) then you should replace with OEM Toyota. Simple as that. LBJ failure can happen without warning and it can kill you or someone else. Don't mess around.

You can usually tell if its not OEM due to the ball joint rusting as they dont coat them that well. Also lots of times they have grease fittings. You can tell also by looking at the rubber type and tell how long they have been there.
 
I've been paranoid too over the last 2 weeks reading these LBJ threads & doing more research at Yotatech. I just ordered Right & Left LBJ's from Camelback Toyota - $178 total, do it right the first time & don't mess with low quality after market parts. I have 151,000 miles on the original LBJ's.
 
good news

Good news is, I got my LBJ's inspected while getting an alignment and they have no play in them at 155,000+ miles. Previous owner must not have been as rough as I have been on them. Now just have to replace that radiator soon for more peace of mind (Or do the B&m tranny cooler.)
 
I need to stay off this forum for awhile... I'm afraid to even drive my 4runner until I replace my LBJ's and radiator. I'm at 155,000 miles now and neither have been replaced. I feel like if I hadn't found this forum I would have driven it until something failed. Not to mention I lifted it at 145,000 miles and put nice duratracs on it, I'm terrified to go offroading with it anymore because as a college student I can't afford the expensive repairs if one of these things fails. So many concerns :(

I feel you. It did take me 1 day to downgrade from excited to concerned about my new toy, 1 day spent on this forum, and find out the problem with LBJs :)

But thank you guys for all your replies, I feel like a member of an exclusive club, now upgraded to confident from concerned.

I wish this Camelback Toyota did have online ordering tho.

Lets find some LBJ now...
 
I feel you. It did take me 1 day to downgrade from excited to concerned about my new toy, 1 day spent on this forum, and find out the problem with LBJs :)

But thank you guys for all your replies, I feel like a member of an exclusive club, now upgraded to confident from concerned.

I wish this Camelback Toyota did have online ordering tho.

Lets find some LBJ now...

It does have online ordering. I got mine from there a few weeks ago, just got around to installing them yesterday. Here's a link with part #'s in it.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/149467-official-lower-ball-joint-write-up-thread.html

Mine did not have any noticeable play in it with a pry bar, BUT when I got them off, I realized that both boots have slight tears in them, and they flop around pretty easily. Definitely worn...

I went ahead and did the inner and outer tie rod ends, which were shot as well. Hardest thing was renting a good pickle fork to separate everything! I did the steering rack bushings (WHAT a PITA - getting that last C-clamp bolt to start threading in took about an hour of time, and I ended up using a come-along strap to "pull" the rack in towards the front diff / crossmember enough to get the bolt started).

I also went ahead and took off the steering column, and did the tack-weld fix. I got an alignment today and WOW, there is quite a difference in steering. Not sure which component exactly is responsible, because I did everything at once, BUT I think the tack welds actually had a lot to do with the improvement. By the way, PO apparently had been in the steering column before and used JBWeld - did NOT hold up (I know other suggested trying it).
 

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