LBJ: What do you guys think?

[4Runner4TW]

I did mine a few weeks ago in the parking lot of an apartment I lived at. Also got them from Camelback Toyota, but I also lived 10 minutes away so that made it easy. Great staff. Anyway, hardest part was getting the joint lose, after I figured out the first one the second one was easy. Until I discovered that the OTRE threads were thrashed. Ended up being a whole day of running around but I'm glad they are done. Black coating is still perfect almost two years later and lots of off roading/road trips. Worth getting the OEM stuff.

 

[alpine]

Received the parts just today.

Is this oem Toyota part? How to tell?

 

[poleclimber63]

Awesome, time for a couple of hours, a couple of beers AND a Saturday afternoon----- all will be well!

 

[pluton]

Received the parts just today.

Is this oem Toyota part? How to tell?

Regretfully, I don't remember what my OEM LBJs looked like 'cause they've been on the car for almost 2 years now.
You don't trust the dealer you got them from?
Didn't the box say "Toyota Genuine Parts"on it?
Did you order something called "OEM quality" instead of OEM?

 

[alpine]

Awesome, time for a couple of hours, a couple of beers AND a Saturday afternoon----- all will be well!

You can have all the tools and parts available, but can never be ready w/o any beer in the fridge...

Regretfully, I don't remember what my OEM LBJs looked like 'cause they've been on the car for almost 2 years now.
You don't trust the dealer you got them from?
Didn't the box say "Toyota Genuine Parts"on it?
Did you order something called "OEM quality" instead of OEM?

Order said OEM, "Toyota OEM" all around the package. Just wanted to learn any tricks if available to spot an OEM part, in case anybody else needs it.

 

[alpine]

Also, this is the dust cover for lbj. It seems to fit tight around the boot.

 

[DwardT4R]

hmmm so reading this thread cracks me up. Ive got the stock ball joints upper and lower, stock radiator, no tranny cooler, and im lifted 3 inches with 174k miles. Runs like a top but im getting behind on the part updating. I try to be easy on it on trails until i get on top of these common problems. Reasons i love this website

 

[alpine]

hmmm so reading this thread cracks me up. Ive got the stock ball joints upper and lower, stock radiator, no tranny cooler, and im lifted 3 inches with 174k miles. Runs like a top but im getting behind on the part updating. I try to be easy on it on trails until i get on top of these common problems. Reasons i love this website

You don't want to test the limits I bet

 

[poleclimber63]

Trying to find out if it is normal for the arm to be greasy like this. Lifted the tire, tried pulling through the bottom, didn't look like it had any play inside. Boot seems to be intact

I'd say its probably expected to see some evidence of grease after a few years, but if you're seeing something similar to the pic on pg 1 of this thread, change them. As several members have said on this thread: why mess around when its a safety issue? This is a known issue with 4Runners and Tacos---- better to be safe! If you use OEM, you'll probably never have to replace them again---- and really, this job is easier than changing plugs---- hit those bolts with liquid wrench and let them soak for a few hrs, Smack the side of the TRE arm on the BJ with a sledge, pop out the TRE, and drop those bolts! Some have said, replace the bolts---- probably a good idea, as someone on here had one break, .....and you're done.

 

[DwardT4R]

No plans of it haha. I plan to get started on the lower ball joints this week. Hopefully the t-belt and water pump sometime soon after that. With new tranny cooler (bypassing the radiator), also my radiator has all kinds of heat stress signs haha, guess that shall be replaced too. Maybe soon i`ll replace the upper ball joints, im hoping to repalce the whole upper control arm instead.

 

[alpine]

Job done, changed them both yesterday. Took me around 3 hours. The "dust cover" was a waste, and might be even better not to use them.

The puller was a must in my case, otherwise it would not come out. Rented from o'reileys for free. Feel much safer now...

 

[Unner]

Yeah I needed the puller too. I bought mine at O'reileys. They didn't have the one I needed available to rent, but had it for sale. Only like $12 so it wasn't too bad.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

Rruh-Rroh!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Rruh-Rroh!

Yeah... that's no good! Be sure to get a tie rod puller and a sledge, that sucker is not going to come out without a fight with all that rust!

 

[SpidermanGeek]

Yeah... that's no good! Be sure to get a tie rod puller and a sledge, that sucker is not going to come out without a fight with all that rust!

It shouldn't be so bad, these LBJs have less than 30k miles on them. Previous owner used Moog's.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Yeah... that's no good! Be sure to get a tie rod puller and a sledge, that sucker is not going to come out without a fight with all that rust!

Get a pitman puller (maybe that's what you are referring to?). I hope you didn't mean a pickle fork, they don't seem to work as well. Slap the pitman puller on it and hit the side of the LCA mount with a hammer and it should pop right out. Mine were just as rusty and this worked like a charm.

It shouldn't be so bad, these LBJs have less than 30k miles on them. Previous owner used Moog's.

If those are Moogs and have 30k on them, then dear God, replace them immediately. That is old for Moogs!

 

[SpidermanGeek]

If those are Moogs and have 30k on them, then dear God, replace them immediately. That is old for Moogs!

Lol, well first I'm gonna check it for play. I was over estimating the mileage on them. The previous owner told me it he replaced them about 15k Miles ago, but he didn't seem "that" sure.

This is not my DD, so if there's no play in the LBJ, I will try and make them last until August for when I take a trip to Ohio (not with the rig).

I'm from Canada, so OEM parts are like double the price compared to the US, but ordering from the States would kill me on shipping and duty anyway.

When I go to Ohio, I can have the parts shipped from Camelback's to my friend's house there and then bring them back home duty free.

I'll do UBJs, LBJs and OTREs. I'm debating doing ITREs too, but those add a good amount to the final bill. I even contemplated doing the CV axles and "be done with it", but I'll have to leave those for another time. It's hard to know "where to stop" once you start replacing parts.

Bill from Camelback is 600$ with the ITREs and 350$ without.

I don't know if I actually need ITREs at this point. I'm fairly confident that they are the original ones, and my T4R has 177k Miles on the odometer.

 

[Idle Beak]

Trying to find out if it is normal for the arm to be greasy like this. Lifted the tire, tried pulling through the bottom, didn't look like it had any play inside. Boot seems to be intact.

Thanks for checking.

With that many miles on it (probably original LBJ) you may have an issue with removing it from the lower control arm. All my ball joints were seized into the control arms. They all functioned properly but I couldn't get them removed. I ended up having to use a machine press after cutting the ball joints. Another guy I meet was able to get his lower out by undoing the nut a couple of threads and putting a Jack right on the ball joint with the strut still in. This will use the springs tension to press the ball joint out of the lower control arm.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

Rruh-Rroh!

Well, little update on my situation. I checked for play today and the LBJs are still tight. This is good news because I know I can at least drive around town safely until I order the parts and tackle the replacement. These old ones probably won't get to see another full 1K miles before they get replaced, so I think I can sleep easy. I'll just check'em periodically for signs of play as well as keep them greased.