LCA Cam Bolt Question

MrSeth

MrSeth

Member
So, I am about to replace my LCA's with fully assembled replacements.

Before I start the endeavor, should I buy cam bolts and sub assemblies? Reason I ask is 1. new stuff is expensive AF. 2. My 4R was aligned last month and the bolts/sub assemblies turned just fine for the techs.

:ranger::ranger:

I have a BFH, torch, and have researched the "pound the tits out of it when its hot with a long ratchet extension" technique and believe it should work.

It's my daily, and I really don't want to get myself stranded.

Thanks in advance all!
 
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If it's your daily you probably would be better prepared to have the hardware in case. If they're siezed then there's no amount of pounding and torch work that's going to work other than a sawzall.

If you luck out you can always just return it to the dealer.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
MrSeth said:
So, I am about to replace my LCA's with fully assembled replacements.

Before I start the endeavor, should I buy cam bolts and sub assemblies? Reason I ask is 1. new stuff is expensive AF. 2. My 4R was aligned last month and the bolts/sub assemblies turned just fine for the techs.

:ranger::ranger:

I have a BFH, torch, and have researched the "pound the tits out of it when its hot with a long ratchet extension" technique and believe it should work.

It's my daily, and I really don't want to get myself stranded.

Thanks in advance all!
Click to expand...

I am planning this job and am going to order the whole shooting match. I priced it all online and it's around $100 for everything beyond the LCA's themselves. Nothing worse than getting in the middle of a job and having to run down a part.
 
Mike07SE said:
If it's your daily you probably would be better prepared to have the hardware in case. If they're siezed then there's no amount of pounding and torch work that's going to work other than a sawzall.

If you luck out you can always just return it to the dealer.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Completely agree with this. I changed shocks/springs using the "no spring compressor method". I loosened the LCA bolts just enough to lower the arm. However on one side, I think I loosened one of the bolts more than I needed but then it stopped turning. i could only tighten it but not loosen any more. That told me if I ever needed to replace the arms I might have to cut the bolts out. Good idea to have the bolts just in case definitely.
 
My truck doesn't have any rust and has lived in Texas and Oklahoma most of its life except for the 3 years I've had it. The driver's side LCA was fine, but on the passenger's side one bolt was difficult to remove and the other completely seized together. I ended up replacing both sets on that side, and smearing everything with antiseize when I put it together. I got lucky but if I had to do it again buying the extra hardware would have been nice.
 
Thanks guys! I think I'll order a bolt kit just in case! Any recommendations on brand? I have read a few things about Moog and their greaseable bolts, what did you all use?
 
MrSeth said:
Thanks guys! I think I'll order a bolt kit just in case! Any recommendations on brand? I have read a few things about Moog and their greaseable bolts, what did you all use?
Click to expand...

All OEM, heard a few times the Moog bolts are junk.
 
paperchasin said:
Where are you guys ordering the bolts from?
Click to expand...

I found a nice set on Wheeler's Off-Road. $25.99 per wheel.

If I don't end up using them, I'll return them. Same with a reciprocating saw and saw blades. I really hope I don't have to chop, but I feel it's going to be inevitable. :ranger:
 
MrSeth said:
I found a nice set on Wheeler's Off-Road. $25.99 per wheel.

If I don't end up using them, I'll return them. Same with a reciprocating saw and saw blades. I really hope I don't have to chop, but I feel it's going to be inevitable. :ranger:
Click to expand...

So you went with SPC branded bolts?
 
paperchasin said:
Seems like they have the best price
Click to expand...

They do. Toytec offers the same kit as Wheelers but for $10 more per kit.

I pulled the trigger on 2x kits from Wheelers. Total of $67.08 shipped to me here in CO.

The only question now is- am I going to be doing this in the snow or not :pound:
 
MrSeth said:
Thanks guys! I think I'll order a bolt kit just in case! Any recommendations on brand? I have read a few things about Moog and their greaseable bolts, what did you all use?
Click to expand...
I bought the spc and moog sets. In the end I wasn't satisfied with then and went with OEM.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
I went with the Moogs and have been very satisfied. I have foundthat people find it popular to bag on moog stuff but I've been using all there stuff for years and theonly issue I ever had was an fj spring thatwas tough to seat. The moog cam bolts have a grease zero and a grease channel. And they seem more beefy.

As far as frozen cams I wouldn't believe allignment shops. I live in NC and I had two frozen cam bolts. Hammers are ok. But a sawzall with a diablo blade is the way to go.
 
Check out the cam bolts by FEBEST. They are identical to OEM. I was very happy with them and happier with the price.
 
paperchasin said:
Found your old post with ebay links... did you re-use your old cam nuts? The front bolt is different from the rear bolt?
Click to expand...

I had extra ones already. I was in your boat, bought them as a precaution, and ended up with all 4 frozen.

they do sell the nuts too though
 
I was able to twist my LCA's out once the bolts came far enough away from one tab on the front bolt. Not easy, but it worked since I had no sawzall or torch. I used cheaper alignment bolts and the shop I used figured out how to align it with no problem, painted white marks and they haven't moved since it was aligned so no worries.
 
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