Leaking Trans fluid...

combatmedic

Banned
Hey guys I'm leaking trans fluid. Im guessing from the rear main seal, my question is, whats the correct method for checking the level and how do I add more fluid, lastly what is the best type of fluid. Thank you

1995 3vze 2wd auto
 
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If the rear main seal was leaking, it would be engine oil, not tranny fluid.

There are drain/fill plugs on the side of the trany. Download the FSM, it will tell you how to do it.

Got a pic of where its leaking from?
 
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If the rear main seal was leaking, it would be engine oil, not tranny fluid.

There are drain/fill plugs on the side of the trany. Download the FSM, it will tell you how to do it.

Got a pic of where its leaking from?

Heres a pic its accumaliting under the bolt

IMG_0198.jpg~original
 
I had something similar happen, and about the same location of the drip. Turned out to be one of the transmission cooling lines had rusted through. Simple/inexpensive fix, and it was no longer leaking.

Check your lines - that's probably what it is.

:boink:
 
I checked the lines they looked good, if the truck is just sitting there it doesnt leak, but it does after driving for a bit then coming home... if that makes any sense?
 
My guess would be transmission input seal or pump housing gasket. Possibly a bad torque converter, but highly unlikely. When it comes to leaking in that area and it isnt the lines more than likely the transmission has to come out for repair.
 
My guess would be transmission input seal or pump housing gasket. Possibly a bad torque converter, but highly unlikely. When it comes to leaking in that area and it isnt the lines more than likely the transmission has to come out for repair.

FUpeanutbutter.jpg~original
 
is the fluid its leaking red? if so then its the tranny if not its your rear main seal.
you can do the input shaft seal yourself its not hard same thing with the rear main you will just need time
 
Get some Trans fluid Dye from the auto parts store put in your trans drive around for a couple of days buy a black light and that will help you locate the leak, also check behind the straps that hold the trans lines to the bell housing I have seen the lines rot out from this area and if you can't find a black light find a Tech that has one put your vehicle on a hoist shine the light on the leakIng trans fluid and you should be able to find the leak this is what I would do first.
 
is the fluid its leaking red? if so then its the tranny if not its your rear main seal.
you can do the input shaft seal yourself its not hard same thing with the rear main you will just need time

any chance you know of any write ups on how to do this? my rear main is leaking so I will be needing to do this in the near future. Thanks :)
 
sorry its all in my head, when i do my rebuild on my 4.3 vortec i can write something up.
if you watch a video on how to do it on a chevy v8 its the same idea so youll be able to get it done. keep in mind the motor will have to come out of the vehicle for this
 
yup ive got a pretty good idea of what all is involved, was just wondering if someone had put up sometime specific to the 4runners for good info about what to look out for or tips to make it easier. thanks for the info though, ill go try and hunt down a video for it
 
on my 22re u could change the rear main by droping the tranny losening up the oil pan and pulling some bolts idk if this would work for a 3vz i have never seen the back of one yet but its an idea
 
Heres a pic its accumaliting under the bolt

IMG_0198.jpg~original

wow i was shocked to see this in here because i just came in to post the same thing

i dont normally do any crazy offroading, just a bit here and there when im going to a fishing hole or something. but today i went out with the intent of just doing some offroading...when i got back i saw oil leaking from the same spot. now when i checked it out with a flashlight it looked like the leak might be coming from the oil pan gasket...would that be normal for something like that to happen after roughing your truck around a bit on the trails?
 
not the oil pan gasket but the rear main on older vehicles is very suseptable to sudden desires for offroading.
it will also be at higher risk of leaking with old mounts like you engine mounts and tranny mounts if those are old the driveline will flex causing stress on your flexplate and inturn your crankshaft this will push on the rear main seal and when that happens the leaks begine
 
not the oil pan gasket but the rear main on older vehicles is very suseptable to sudden desires for offroading.
it will also be at higher risk of leaking with old mounts like you engine mounts and tranny mounts if those are old the driveline will flex causing stress on your flexplate and inturn your crankshaft this will push on the rear main seal and when that happens the leaks begine

that makes sense...damn thats gonna cost me quite a bit to fix huh? :(
 
i just did my research on switching out the rear main seal...looks like its not too immediate of an issue as long as i keep an eye on my oil levels and get it taken care of in the next few weeks...is this a good assumption?
 
ok heres the thing about rear main seals.
if you have a manual transmission you should fix the rear main seal ASAP because it leaks on the clutch disc and will cause the clutch disc to saturate and fall apart.

on a automatic its a lot easier to let it slide beacuse youll just be leaking oil and as long as you keep the engine full you can leak for years without anything else but your driveway being effected.

NOW if your going to replace the rear main seal you need to first see if its a 1 piece or 2 piece seal!!!!! this will decide the cost of your replacing it

2 piece rear main seals are the cheapest to replace the are typically easy and require only dropping the oil pan and using RTV silicon with new gaskets.

1 piece rear mains require you to pull the crankshaft assembly to properly replace them. at this point I will always do a full rebuild kit.
piston rings and oil control rings on the pistons.
main bearing and rod end bearings.
i will aslo use a micrometer to check the crank wear to see if its in tolerance.
at this point the engine has to be out of the vehicle so i do head gaskets and anything else that may be a foreseeable issue like valve cover gaskets and intake manifold gaskets water pump timing chain or belt.

For me when a major repair demands taking the engine out it saves me money to just fix it all that way its all done and new and i know it.

a friend of mine replaced his rear main seal and 4 weeks later he spun a rod bearing and broke the block it couldnt be saved he had to buy a new engine 3200$
if he would have taken my advice the 400$ master rebuild kit would have replaced that spun bearing and saved him a bunch of cash.

low range offroad offers full master rebuild kits to fit any level of skill from full piston replacement to simple re-ring kits.
4Runner Engine Rebuild
 

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