LED LIGHT BAR INSTALL on a 2014 T4R

Very helpful OP, great write-up! One dumb question since I'm getting up to speed on all things off-road. Do you have a second battery or is this running to your original/primary?

Also, would you mind posting a daytime picture of the whole front end and grille with all lights off so we can tell what it looks like back there when not in use?
 
Very helpful OP, great write-up! One dumb question since I'm getting up to speed on all things off-road. Do you have a second battery or is this running to your original/primary?

No second battery required. The 120 Watt LED draws less amperage if my memory serves me right. If it doesn't, that's no more draw than 2) 55 watt halogen driving lights.
 
Output pics added to original posting.
Can't do any without OEM lights, the high beam triggers the LED Light Bar.

Thanks for the photo's. The light bar does seem to flood short distance pretty well, but I think it's getting diffused by the grill. I would tape it to the front of the grill and try it before cutting the grill. In fact, putting it outside and below the grill would be my preference before cutting. Seeing it in person may prove different cosmetically.
 
Thanks for the photo's. The light bar does seem to flood short distance pretty well, but I think it's getting diffused by the grill. I would tape it to the front of the grill and try it before cutting the grill. In fact, putting it outside and below the grill would be my preference before cutting. Seeing it in person may prove different cosmetically.
Thanks for that input, but I have no plans on hanging it outside the grill.
The only other choice would be to trim the grill IMHO!
 
My choice was to cut and mount flush for that OEM look. Hanging below doesn't work where I live.............one snow bank, say goodbye to that $$$$ light bar.......been there, done that :dammit:

Maybe Saker was going for that stealth look, either way, looks great OP.
 

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My choice was to cut and mount flush for that OEM look. Hanging below doesn't work where I live.............one snow bank, say goodbye to that $$$$ light bar.......been there, done that :dammit:

Maybe Saker was going for that stealth look, either way, looks great OP.

I do like your setup!
They changed the grill on the 14's.
Still have not ruled out the grill cut.
 
I do like your setup!
They changed the grill on the 14's.
Still have not ruled out the grill cut.

Thanks, either way, better to have (recessed or flush), then not have a light bar :thumb:

Might I offer one suggestion? :hiding: Don't use t-taps, although they're easy to make quick connections, they will not last and lead to intermittent connections due to cutting into wire.

Best connection is to solder and use heat shrink.....................:bolt:
 
2.) I'm pretty sure I'd never want to kick those blazers on WITH the high beams when I was flashing an oncoming vehicle to signify that their brights were on.
3.) Flexibility. I've learned in my 55 years that if you have an option to leave in a feature that provides flexibility you do it.
Ok, I'm out of reasons now.

Hey OldSchool1959, if you don't mind, I would like to address your 2 statements for clarification. No flaming intended here, just my view.
#2) With the switch installed as I have it, you have the option to have the LED's come on or not come on with the high beams.
Switch depressed = LED's come on with high beams.
Switch not depressed = only high beams come on.

#3 is also covered above, unless you prefer just to have your switch for the LED's come on by itself. Either way you have flexibility.



Here is a wiring diagram for connecting without using a switch:
 

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Hey OldSchool1959, if you don't mind, I would like to address your 2 statements for clarification. No flaming intended here, just my view.
#2) With the switch installed as I have it, you have the option to have the LED's come on or not come on with the high beams.
Switch depressed = LED's come on with high beams.
Switch not depressed = only high beams come on.

#3 is also covered above, unless you prefer just to have your switch for the LED's come on by itself. Either way you have flexibility.

Thanks for the clarification Saker - no flames taken. I would want to do the LEDs only as an option but that's just my geeky twidget self coming through. My ADD tendencies would likely cause me to accidentally leave them on and I'd be back on this thread to document my woes.
 
After much thought, I opened up my grill today....to let the SUN shine! :becky:

Was easy to do with a utility knife and a propane torch.
That sounded funny, so I better explain.....heat the blade with the propane torch and it cuts thru the plastic grill like hot butter.

nb0e.jpg
 
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I had the same thought about location when i brought my 14 home but didnt want to cut that much grill out so soon.
20140311_165629.jpg
 

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You guys spaced/drilled the bumper beam for this; are you able to fish a bolt up through the bottom of the bumper and then put the nut on from the top?

I just put in 20" bar on my '14, by running two 4" stainless bolts down from the top, and "hanging" my bar upside down. No cutting/drilling, and works fine on the road. But off-road it vibrates more than I would like.

image_zps069f80bd.jpg~original
 
You guys spaced/drilled the bumper beam for this; are you able to fish a bolt up through the bottom of the bumper and then put the nut on from the top?

I drilled and tapped my bumper, bolted it from the top. Didn't drill thru the bumper and fish as you described.
 

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