LED Light bar install - unused connector to tap switch into

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cheeser

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I am getting all of the pieces (AOB switch, [MENTION=133346]BradBrad619[/MENTION] mounts, and OPT7 C2 Series: 22" lights and harness) together to install a light bar in a few weeks.

One thing that I am trying to do is not splice into any wiring. I hate the t-taps, although the Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap may be a better option, or soldering of course...just a bit harder to do in getting hands in there.

Are there any unused plugs in the dash or even console that I can connect the illumination switch wires instead? That is a cleaner solution for me. I was hoping there are are unused connectors as I have a number of unused plugs in the dash and console.
 
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cheeser said:
I am getting all of the pieces (AOB switch, [MENTION=133346]BradBrad619[/MENTION] mounts, and OPT7 C2 Series: 22" lights and harness) together to install a light bar in a few weeks.

One thing that I am trying to do is not splice into any wiring. I hate the t-taps, although the Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap may be a better option, or soldering of course...just a bit harder to do in getting hands in there.

Are there any unused plugs in the dash or even console that I can connect the illumination switch wires instead? That is a cleaner solution for me. I was hoping there are are unused connectors as I have a number of unused plugs in the dash and console.
Click to expand...

It depends on how much you want that switch to light up. I decided not to illuminate the switch because half of the interior lights don't light up anyways, or at least that's how it feels, ha! But mostly because I didn't want to screw with the OEM wiring. Mine doesn't light with the dash lights, but does when it is on. Another option is to install an add-a-fuse to the tail light fuse under the drivers side dash, and wire it to the dash light wire on the AOB. I tested it, and it works, but you won't get dimming. I just decided not to all together, but that's just me! Good luck!
 
Yup, as stated above I have no connection to any factory wiring anywhere in the truck, the only downside is no illumination of switches when accessories are off. When the switches are activated they do light up. I did an add a fuse for the CB to the fuse box by the driver footwell.
 
I went to west marine and got some heat shrink butt connectors. I just pulled back the loom, cut the wire stripped the ends and put both switch ends of wire in one end of the connect and the power end in the other. You have to crimp down really hard though to make sure it's tight, and I give a nice tug on the wires to make sure it's tight before heating it. The heat shrink on those connectors really seals everything in and it's not going anywhere once done. I haven't had any issues with the lighting.
 
cheeser said:
"...One thing that I am trying to do is not splice into any wiring. I hate the t-taps, although the Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap may be a better option, or soldering of course...just a bit harder to do in getting hands in there..."
Click to expand...

Hi cheeser,

I do understand you not wanting to cut-into (butcher) the factory wiring in your new 4Runner. However, these vehicles aren't made with add-on tap terminals for those who want to do electrical mods! There a host of places where you can connect to the illumination (courtesy lighting) circuit to allow your AOB dash switch to glow along with the others when the parking/headlights are on e.g., temp control, front de-icer switch... even the HU. The reason that the dimmer dial won't work with the tail lighting is because the dimmer works on the ground side (Gray wire). I'm aware that you don't have the woofer speaker switch (party mode sw), or the RSCA (air bag defeat button), but there's still the de-icer and heater buttons.

If you're interested in illuminating your AOB sw, the green wire on those buttons are HOT and the Gray wires are GND. If you intend to modify your truck you'll need to initiate changes; I'm not even sure if Metra-online make harnesses for each and every wire in the truck so I can't even make that recommendation. I've been around a long time and have yet to see a method of splicing wires in the dash without tampering with the insulation or I would have gone that route. I think the main thing is to make your mods carefully and Reversible wherever you can. I know I didn't solve your problem but I hope you can take something away from this post, Rgds
 
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Thanks everyone...most of the suggestions I have seen in a number of posts, but do appreciate them.

I would like the illumination to work...I am not that concerned with dimming though.

Does the panel in that area simply pull off so we can get our hands in there.

I was an electronics tech way back when I was in the military, so I can solder / splice fairly well. I am just a bit lazy now in splicing in to the harness.

I was hoping that Toyota did us a big favor in pre wiring vehicles with a fairly standard harness, but just left the connectors dangling since there wasn't a switch installed for some function.
 
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cheeser said:
Thanks everyone...most of the suggestions I have seen in a number of posts, but do appreciate them.
Click to expand...

It just occurred to me that you can buy a headlight extension harness which connects between the H-11 (Lowbeam) socket and the factory lighting harness. You make your connection there, and so never have to tamper with the factory wiring. Here's a link to the extension for the headlights; I'm sure there's one for the parking lamps as well: HiseNook 2 Piece H8/H9/H11 Extension Adapter Wiring Harness Sockets Wire Cable for Headlight - Extension Cords - Amazon.com... that's the best thing I could come up with for now,

Cheers
 
How does one remove the old switches/plugs in the dash, or pull off the plastic dash trim that the lights are in to obtain more working room?

Didn't if I could simply yank on the term and then remove plugs with a release clip.
 
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