Lift Install Woes, day 8...

NorthernRyan

NorthernRyan

New member
I have been attempting to install the OW 2.0 kit for 8 days now. To be fair 5 of those days I had to go back to work but I have been stopping by each night to soak it in penetrant (PB Blaster and will be trying Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant) and hit it a few times.

On the right side I have this:
<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/?action=view&current=IMGP0178.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/IMGP0178.jpg" border="0" alt="Ball joint taper stuck"></a>

The ball joint taper of the UCA will not release from the spindle even with a pickle fork and big green (8lb sledge hammer). I have put penetrant into the taper, pickle forked, side tapped and even loaded it by prying up the UCA with the LCA attached loading the ball joint and tapping the side of the spindle, to no avail. I will be getting a proper puller with a clamp and screw so I will be trying that Tuesday. I also bought a map gas torch so should I be heating the spindle or the bolt, and how careful should I be?

On the left side I have this:
<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/?action=view&current=IMGP0176.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/IMGP0176.jpg" border="0" alt="Shock stuck in mount"></a>

The ball joint popped no problem but the top of the strut/shock won't come out of the top frame mount. It has now been 4 days of soaking in PB Blaster and beating down on the spring with the sledge hammer (you can kinda see the green paint on the spring) and I also have been prying down putting a large metal bar through the middle of the spring to a hole in the frame. I'm getting to my wits end on this one. If I heat the top with my new found torch what do i have to be careful of? The fluid area of the shock is at the bottom so would it just be watch out for the abs and brake lines that go across the top? What can I start grinding away? If grind the contact of the shock and frame mount will I risk the spring flying off at some point?

Sorry for the long post but my 4runner is kicking my butt at the moment with around 22 hours of time spent in the garage now:whipping2. To top it off I am using my buddies garage since I don't have one and I think his wife is less than impressed since it's -15 Celcius out and their truck is outside...

I've done my searching on here and have tried all the tips I could find with the side tapping of the joint and loading the joint and even what penetrant to get but I'm still stuck.

So any tips, suggestions or advice would be appreciated guys, thanks.
 
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I may be blind or dumb but why is the nut still on there for the ball joint? Usually the nut needs to come off.. as pulling the joint out of the UCA is nigh to impossible...

As for the spring...mine was stuck a little bit and some lube and a buddy pulling down on it...and me smacking the top a few hits broke it loose... I feel ya on the frustration though. We took the bottom nut out and wiggled it hard...outside and inside with beating in combination...not sure if you've tried that but I assume so. Good luck with the heat...if you are putting in new everything than just torch the top good. and get-r-done. Let us know the progress...
 
The castle nut is on there just to catch it if it pops off, it's down a few threads from being tight. The puller I'm getting pushed on the bottom of the bolt with a screw while clamping to the spindle. Ya all new so maybe I just need to get meaner. Thanks setty, you can bet there will be a picture celebration post when this is done...
 
settytb said:
I may be blind or dumb but why is the nut still on there for the ball joint? Usually the nut needs to come off.. as pulling the joint out of the UCA is nigh to impossible......
Click to expand...

+1. Although mine was near impossible to remove as well, even with the nut removed. I ended up going a different route by removing the lower control arms
 
4Rida said:
+1. Although mine was near impossible to remove as well, even with the nut removed. I ended up going a different route by removing the lower control arms
Click to expand...

Forgot to mention, problem is I am replacing the UCAs too, and the nuts loosened off.
 
that shouldnt be that much of a pain in the ass to take off. i helped a friend redo his suspension on his 01 taco and the shocks just fell down with a little wiggle... or we just got a small bottle jack and put it on the top bolt and that helped it push down
 
If you have unbolted the 3 nuts on top of the tower and the one on the lower end of the shock along with the 2 on the lca and the tie rod, everything should pop right out allowing you to get to the uca. you are missing something very simple somewhere but cant figure it out just from pics. it should take no more than 1/2 a day to do the swap.
 
Well after two more days of work I`m done. To be fair I have never worked on trucks before besides doing the calipers on this one so I`m lacking in the knowing what feels right section. After 4 or 5 days of penetrant soak, I got a proper puller for the ball joint and it worked like a charm. The shock assembly came out fine on that side as i soaked it too. Once I saw how it was made I just beat the other side till it came out, no more then 10 mins. Again I think the soaking in PB Blaster was key. Bought myself a reciprocating saw to get the top mounting bolts for the rear shocks off, that was fun. All said and done I only striped one bolt and sheered another, got around both. There`s a certain satisfaction doing it yourself and knowing your truck a hell of a lot better afterwards. Cue pics, I`ll take more after I wash it and start a build thread or something.

Before
<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/?action=view&current=IMGP0171.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/IMGP0171.jpg" border="0" alt="before"></a>

After
<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/?action=view&current=IMGP01772.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/IMGP01772.jpg" border="0" alt="after"></a>

The top of the shock assembly that gave me such trouble, I blame the rust.
<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/?action=view&current=IMGP0167.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/IMGP0167.jpg" border="0" alt="stuck"></a>

Everything removed
<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/?action=view&current=IMGP01762.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/IMGP01762.jpg" border="0" alt="bye bye old"></a>

Front done
<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/?action=view&current=IMGP01712.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/IMGP01712.jpg" border="0" alt="front done"></a>

Rear done
<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/?action=view&current=IMGP01732.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x477/engryan/car/IMGP01732.jpg" border="0" alt="rear done"></a>

After all I did I think I know most of any situation, if you ever stumble upon this thread looking for answers shoot me a pm and I might be able to answer it as I had the xreas and all.

Time to have a well deserved drink. :beer:
 
Nice to see you finally got it all taken care of. Just to let you know, I also had a hell of a time with the same things you did and I only installed a front spacer lift lol. I also ended up breaking a bolt etc. The issue 100% is rust, I've seen southern 4runners on here that do the same job in half the time because everything comes apart like it's suppose to.

No wonder we all drink beer and smoke pot :jk: (stereotype much?)...all projects turn into an excersise in fustration lol
 
Looking good man.

i installed a lift a few weeks ago, and ran into the same bull**** with the rusted up xreas system. For the rear shocks, I ended up just using a 4' long cheater bar and sheared the top mounting bolts right off. For the fronts, I didn't even bother trying to remove the upper shock mount, I just removed the top nut and slid everything out the bottom (just installing 5100's and springs, not full coilovers). The top nuts alone though took half a can of PB blaster, some well positioned vice grips to keep the shock from turning, and a 4' long cheater bar. And on top of that I had to re-do it a couple of times because I forgot to install the some bushing retainers. Needless to say, it took a couple of days, but it was worth it in the end.
 
For future reference, don't waste your time with lube. Go for heat. The only thing lube is good for is inceasing the burn when you use heat.
 
hell yeah, looks good. Thank god I didn't have to soak anything with PB Blaster, even living up in the Pac NW. Of course, I didn't replace my UCA's (just loosened lower A arms). Looks like you had some rust issues from all the salt they use in Canada? Either way, final product looks great.
 
Sorry to hear the old setup was so stubborn.

Normally best to use ball joint and tie rods pullers. Yep some PB blaster helps, and there are more extreme steps available :D


At any rate congrats!!! The victory is even sweeter of the battle was hard :guitar3:
 
Glad you were able to get it all done... can be a bit of a bugger.

After seeing the photo of the front setup, there sure is a lot of threads showing on the top of the coilover. For some reason I thought the OW lift was to only be lifted as much as 1" of threads showing...

Wiser minds please chime in???

BTW, truck looks great, nice job!
 
Looks good man. !st time around is always more work until you feel comfortable putting more force on things and figuring out the unexpected. Obviously this forum is the place to get your answers. I am getting ready to put on some 5100's and I expect after just having everything apart last month it will be much, much easier. Great looking results. Best regards, Doug
 
jason04 said:
After seeing the photo of the front setup, there sure is a lot of threads showing on the top of the coilover. For some reason I thought the OW lift was to only be lifted as much as 1" of threads showing...
Click to expand...

In the instruction it says no more than 2.5 inches of thread showing on top. Either way I just left them as they came and after i get it settled I may lower the front slightly to get the running boards to even or a little rake for when there is gear in the back.
 
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