Lift + sway bar question (don't shoot me I did search for like 30 minutes)

[PWD4R]

Can that be done after the lift is installed? Sorry for the noob question but I am gonna obviously have some help with it too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Gadgetguy]

Can that be done after the lift is installed? Sorry for the noob question but I am gonna obviously have some help with it too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A diff drop can be done any time, it's just a few bolts and isn't even directly attached to the suspension.

 

[PWD4R]

Amazing. Thanks. I appreciate your patience. I knew it isn't attached but I just didn't know if it got in the way so thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Does that help?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, that helps. But I don't know those shocks without doing some research. You should find out what the compressed length of the stock shocks is and the compressed length of the 60073 shocks. Then, extend the bump stops by a minimum of the difference in length. Make sure to account for any softness or compress-ability of the new bump stops. If they are soft, make sure they are long enough until the compression of them stops.

 

[PWD4R]

My thoughts exactly. I have spent the last 20 minutes trying to research the compression length on them to no avail. I may just call them some time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

My thoughts exactly. I have spent the last 20 minutes trying to research the compression length on them to no avail. I may just call them some time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can find the compressed length after you get them. Put your weight on them (should work) or use a pipe clamp to compress them. Then, take your own measurements.

 

[PWD4R]

I will figure something out. Worst case scenario I will get 2" longer bump stops. Thanks for all of your help. It's very appreciated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Roc Doc]

Yep, that helps. But I don't know those shocks without doing some research. You should find out what the compressed length of the stock shocks is and the compressed length of the 60073 shocks. Then, extend the bump stops by a minimum of the difference in length. Make sure to account for any softness or compress-ability of the new bump stops. If they are soft, make sure they are long enough until the compression of them stops.

Don't forget to account for the motion ratio. :nod:

 

[TorqueOfTheDevil]

I'm currently running mine without as I damaged my drop links which were custom extended and it's horrible.

The rear makes a much smaller difference, but the front is much more noticeable.

I'd say disconnects are the way to go, although I'm yet to see a "neat" way of tucking up the disconnected bar.,

 

[Roc Doc]

I'm currently running mine without as I damaged my drop links which were custom extended and it's horrible.

The rear makes a much smaller difference, but the front is much more noticeable.

I'd say disconnects are the way to go, although I'm yet to see a "neat" way of tucking up the disconnected bar.,

IMO, torsion style anti-roll bars, (like the Currie Anti-rock), are the way to go, but it's big dollars, and there's extensive fabrication involved.

I'm not doing any real rockcrawling with my rig, so I'll just extend the links and call it good.

 

[PWD4R]

Yeah my off roading style isn't crazy... You can do it in street legal vehicles without needing 10" lifts or anything


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cbr900boy]

I am soon going to install the suspension lift I gathered. Coils are 881 front and 890 rear.
I see a lot of people getting disconnects (which I wouldn't be opposed to) or extended links but:
First - do I even need sway bars? The rear seems like an easy no (took the rear off my last vehicle) and the front doesn't seem to be a big deal however I have read people saying it'll wear your shocks much quicker. I drive it very seldom as I have a DD and this is mainly a wheeling rig with maybe a road trip here or there. Maybe 1k-1.5k total miles in a year.
Second - with the exception of limited down travel are there any other cons to leaving the stock bar on?
Third - should I just quit being a lazy ass and just get some disconnects or extended links?

And I won't take offense if you reply to this thread with helpful threads, but keep in mind I did read about 6-7 of them.


I guess I will throw this in there too as I only did minimal reading on this but with a 3" rear and 2.5" front lift do I need extended brake lines if it will see a decent amount of time off road and flexed (where I go likes to see if it can take a wheel off the ground for ya)

Thank you all in advance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After reading a lot of threads I've made the decision of only removing the front sway bars for increased articulation. I have the SS 1.2 so my fronts are Bilstein 5100s with tundra coils. I drive my rig a lot on the freeways and the extra sway is hardly noticeable. I do however notice a smoother ride which is less harsh. Also keep in mind, I have limiting straps up front to limit droop so my CVs wont bind.

 

[TorqueOfTheDevil]

IMO, torsion style anti-roll bars, (like the Currie Anti-rock), are the way to go, but it's big dollars, and there's extensive fabrication involved.

I'm not doing any real rockcrawling with my rig, so I'll just extend the links and call it good.

I don't really see how that works differently to what we have.

Ours (and every other type I have seen) are also torsion bars, just one piece instead of 3+

Unless you remove the "legs" and store them.

 

[Roc Doc]

I don't really see how that works differently to what we have.

Ours (and every other type I have seen) are also torsion bars, just one piece instead of 3+

Unless you remove the "legs" and store them.

You're correct they are both torsion springs, but the 3 piece setup has much, much less bind and will allow more travel and still do it's job. Heim joints, various rate bars, and various length arms allow it to be tailored to the specific job.

 

[JayRolla]

After reading a lot of threads I've made the decision of only removing the front sway bars for increased articulation. I have the SS 1.2 so my fronts are Bilstein 5100s with tundra coils. I drive my rig a lot on the freeways and the extra sway is hardly noticeable. I do however notice a smoother ride which is less harsh. Also keep in mind, I have limiting straps up front to limit droop so my CVs wont bind.

The more you ride like that, the more the sway gets worse. Seems to wear out the front suspension a lot faster.

 

[90goldtsiawd]

Take a look at my build thread as I just had same lift installed. I went with extended links and Toytec SS lines front and rear with my Tundra brake upgrade. I also bought the diff drop, Toytec panhard bar and extension and Toytec bump stop drops. My rig won't be doing any rock crawling and I tow my boat a lot so I'm not ditching my sways.

 

[Roc Doc]

Take a look at my build thread as I just had same lift installed. I went with extended links and Toytec SS lines front and rear with my Tundra brake upgrade. I also bought the diff drop, Toytec panhard bar and extension and Toytec bump stop drops. My rig won't be doing any rock crawling and I tow my boat a lot so I'm not ditching my sways.

That's how it should be done. Props.

 

[PWD4R]

Take a look at my build thread as I just had same lift installed. I went with extended links and Toytec SS lines front and rear with my Tundra brake upgrade. I also bought the diff drop, Toytec panhard bar and extension and Toytec bump stop drops. My rig won't be doing any rock crawling and I tow my boat a lot so I'm not ditching my sways.

Do you have a link to your build?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[90goldtsiawd]

Do you have a link to your build?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/221245-90golds-01-toyota-4runner-sport-build.html

 

[PWD4R]

Cool thanks. I have seen it and didn't realize haha. I may be doing more because of that ugh


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk