Lifted + LBJ life

[nobb]

Yep, the only flaw was the fact that Toyota screwed up the geometric placement of the joint when going from a torsion bar to coilover design. The actual OEM ball joint is a high quality part that is known to last >200,000 miles. I have yet to see an aftermarket joint that comes close in quality.

In a lifted application, I would just check the joints more often and maybe replace them every 100,000 miles. There is no good data on lifespan of these joints so all we can really do is speculate.

 

[atalarico]

Just do what I did and put it on jack stands in the garage for two months! Plenty of time to take everything apart, wait for parts, wait for the correct parts, order replacement bolts you broke, put everything back together, then order the parts you never knew you needed.

Aside from garage, that's basically what I've been doing. It's disheartening as hell and I'm having a hard time getting motivated. I finally drove it (a short distance) for the first time in over a month yesterday and she's still fun to drive, but I can't help think about the LBJs and u-joints (among everything else).

We got this, right?!

 

[seank]

Aside from garage, that's basically what I've been doing. It's disheartening as hell and I'm having a hard time getting motivated. I finally drove it (a short distance) for the first time in over a month yesterday and she's still fun to drive, but I can't help think about the LBJs and u-joints (among everything else).

We got this, right?!

Don't be frustrated man, I'll help you with the LBJs, they're cake. The only painful part is the cost (make sure to buy new bolts). No clue about the U joints, haven't done mine yet, but they can't be too hard.

 

[atalarico]

Don't be frustrated man, I'll help you with the LBJs, they're cake. The only painful part is the cost (make sure to buy new bolts). No clue about the U joints, haven't done mine yet, but they can't be too hard.

Dang, I appreciate that and I forgot you're in Denver. I did the LBJs and OTREs once before with another guy I met on this forum. I remember there was a lot of hot pickle bar action and a lot of swearing. Haha.

I guess it's not really the doing it part, it's more of the feeling like this rig has a very long list of things I need to do to it. I just have to remember it's a 90s Toyota, which means I just need to take care of the LBJs for safety's sake and that it'll run fine without me doing the rest of these things. The rest of the list is more "I should do's" rather than "my cars going to kill me if I don't do's".

 

[Rwhockey29]

Please note there is not "issue" with the ball joints themselves. Toyota went from Torsion bar suspension to coil over and did not swap the ball joint. There for instead of the ball joint being compressed, it is in constant tension.

Toyota OEM LBJ have been designed to last for a long time and hardened as well. It is considered a maintenance item and there for should be inspected periodically, especially if you have done any suspension work in regards to raising your vehicle.

Yep, the only flaw was the fact that Toyota screwed up the geometric placement of the joint when going from a torsion bar to coilover design. The actual OEM ball joint is a high quality part that is known to last >200,000 miles. I have yet to see an aftermarket joint that comes close in quality.

In a lifted application, I would just check the joints more often and maybe replace them every 100,000 miles. There is no good data on lifespan of these joints so all we can really do is speculate.

gotcha. thanks for the explanation guys. i was under the impression it was a flaw in the actual ball joint themselves. i guess at 215k im due to replace mine.

what is the best inner/outer tie rod ends to go with? might as well do it all while im in there.

 

[habanero]

My buddy installed a set and one failed within 10k miles. We dont know what happened. It actually broke at the bolt/thread and not out the socket and it was TQ'ed correctly we thought. Could have been installed incorrectly.

That being said how many people on here have hit 100k miles after being lifted? Thats the people we need to ask.

I'm a little short. The 96 was lifted (SS 1.2) about 80,000 miles ago at around 200,000 miles with oe ball joints on it at that time.
I replaced said joints at 218,000 miles as maintenance. Both still felt good, but this is my everythingmobile. Daily, occasional moderate wheely, kid hauler.
This year I replaced the right lower ball joint with 50,000 miles on it strictly because of seepage. No other reason. Again, my everythingmobile. The left side still looks/feels good.
The bolts have been replaced now and then too, mostly if I've got to do something that requires them to be removed and if I haven't replaced them in awhile.
Always always Toyota joints and bolts, always proper torque and loc-tite.

The 99's oe ball joints were replaced at 164,000 miles, the left one was very bad. It was, at the time, stock. It was lifted at 200,000 miles (very recently) so time will tell.

One of the parts guys I buy from's buddy rolled his stock 4Runner on the highway when a ball joint failed. He didn't know the miles on it, though.

 

[Scramble]

gotcha. thanks for the explanation guys. i was under the impression it was a flaw in the actual ball joint themselves. i guess at 215k im due to replace mine.

what is the best inner/outer tie rod ends to go with? might as well do it all while im in there.

I just did OEM outers while I was in there.

 

[Tyota89]

I replaced balljoints at 225k while I was lifting it. Since then I put 20k on it and wheeled it 10 times from easy to this was a bad idea trails.. Oem ball joint still looks good no seepage. About 3" of lift in the front.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

gotcha. thanks for the explanation guys. i was under the impression it was a flaw in the actual ball joint themselves. i guess at 215k im due to replace mine.

what is the best inner/outer tie rod ends to go with? might as well do it all while im in there.

The best to use are OEM. Use only OEM ITREs if you are lifted. Aftermarket ITREs will limit droop angles and put added force into the steering rack, eventually causing failure there. For OTREs, you can use OEM or aftermarket, but the OEMs aren't too much more expensive.

 

[amalik]

The best to use are OEM. Use only OEM ITREs if you are lifted. Aftermarket ITREs will limit droop angles and put added force into the steering rack, eventually causing failure there. For OTREs, you can use OEM or aftermarket, but the OEMs aren't too much more expensive.

While true, when you run the numbers be prepared to find that oem itre are significantly more expensive than aftermarket.

Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk

 

[JayRolla]

While true, when you run the numbers be prepared to find that oem itre are significantly more expensive than aftermarket.

Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk

I've had 4 after markets fail ranging $30- $60 each. Wish I did oems right off. Your looking at $130 at most places each.

Here people have bought them fire $75 each.
https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=4550339075

 

[4racer]

back up

 

[atalarico]

Can anyone link me to a source for OEM LBJ's? I'm going to bite the bullet and order those tomorrow. Again, this is strictly because of what appear to be torn boots on the NAPA ones I have from a couple years ago. I'm not sure if my front-end "issues" are from the LBJs, but the torn boots make me nervous, and I can justify the expense to not roll over on the highway.

 

[4racer]

Check out Camelback Toyota.

https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...siteid=214329&vehicleid=68846&diagram=8414250

 

[atalarico]

Check out Camelback Toyota.

https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...siteid=214329&vehicleid=68846&diagram=8414250

Thanks!

By the way, as I was looking around for OEM LBJ's, I recognized the ones I have on mine currently are the 555 Sankei made in Japan ones! I was under the impression when I bought them that they were OEM or better, so should I still be changing them out for OEM ones given that the boots are a bit torn?

 

[4racer]

Thanks!

By the way, as I was looking around for OEM LBJ's, I recognized the ones I have on mine currently are the 555 Sankei made in Japan ones! I was under the impression when I bought them that they were OEM or better, so should I still be changing them out for OEM ones given that the boots are a bit torn?

So far from what I have gathered. The OEM ones are best and have extra hardening around the lip of the ball joint retainer.

 

[nobb]

There were rumors that Sankei is the manufacturer of the OEM joints, which may be true but if so it must be in a different assembly line. The aftermarket Sankeis are of noticebly lesser quality than the LBJs you get from the dealer.

 

[atalarico]

Cool, good to know then. Thanks!

 

[ToyotaBrah]

I paid $186 for both LBJs with the 8 mounting bolts from Camelback. I honestly don't think you could get them any cheaper or from a dealership more professional than them. I received them in about 3 days.

Highly recommend Camelback.

 

[threadlessclimber]

The best prices I've seen are Boch Toyota (southern Mass.) online parts but you have to pay shipping.