Lifted + LBJ life

[atalarico]

I paid $186 for both LBJs with the 8 mounting bolts from Camelback. I honestly don't think you could get them any cheaper or from a dealership more professional than them. I received them in about 3 days.

Highly recommend Camelback.

Yup! Done and done. I couldn't find the part listing for the 8 mounting bolts so I threw it in the comments on the order. Hopefully they see that, but it's not a big deal to get those from a dealership locally.

The best prices I've seen are Boch Toyota (southern Mass.) online parts but you have to pay shipping.

Yes, they definitely had Camelback beat by $8 on each LBJ...until they throw the $19 shipping at you. Camelback's FedEx Ground was free, so even though the parts were more expensive, the shipping made Boch a more expensive order. Ah well, I was excited about them until I got all the way to checkout.

 

[kolelt]

You don't have to press out the ball joint correct ?

It is held by bolts attached to the LCA ? Right ?

 

[4racer]

You don't have to press out the ball joint correct ?

It is held by bolts attached to the LCA ? Right ?

No pressing at all. Just undo 4 bolts and the castle nut that goes in the LCA. you may need a mallet or ball joint popper to get it off the lower control arm. Thread the castle nut on about 4 threads when popping it off the LCA.

 

[atalarico]

No pressing at all. Just undo 4 bolts and the castle nut that goes in the LCA. you may need a mallet or ball joint popper to get it off the lower control arm. Thread the castle nut on about 4 threads when popping it off the LCA.

I might want to have a pickle bar handy, right? Trying to make my Autozone list before I embark on the project later this week.

Also, am I going to need an alignment after I do the LBJs? The last time I did, but that was more because I did the OTRE's too. I'm not replacing those this time because I'm not sure I really need to but I'm open to suggestions on how to test them. Something about wiggling a wheel in the air, but I've heard that for a few different things.

 

[4racer]

We might want to have a pickle bar handy, right? Trying to make my Autozone list before I embark on the project later this week.

Never hurts. I was able to get mine out fairly easy. But better to have more tools than you need just to be safe.

You shouldn't need an alignment after unless you do your OTRE or ITRE. I didnt even take off my OTRE. You can do it with everything in place. Fairly easy.

 

[mtbtim]

I might want to have a pickle bar handy, right? Trying to make my Autozone list before I embark on the project later this week.

Also, am I going to need an alignment after I do the LBJs? The last time I did, but that was more because I did the OTRE's too. I'm not replacing those this time because I'm not sure I really need to but I'm open to suggestions on how to test them. Something about wiggling a wheel in the air, but I've heard that for a few different things.

Don't use a pickle fork unless you plan on replacing your outer tie rod. You'll destroy the boot of the tie rod with that pickle fork crappy tool. You'd be better off using the technique of pounding on the steering knuckle and lower control arm with a hammer to knock them lose. But better yet, you can use pullers to break the the outer tie rod free of the steering knuckle of the ball joint and to break the balljoint free of the lower control. Autozone most likely rents pullers for free. Just rent an assortment so you'll find one that fits each application. Pullers won't do any damage to your components like the pickle fork and hammer technique will do.

Here's a video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did for replacing lower ball joints on our rigs. We show the use of pullers in the video. Enjoy the show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bfLvtEnX9qk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[atalarico]

Don't use a pickle fork unless you plan on replacing your outer tie rod. You'll destroy the boot of the tie rod with that pickle fork crappy tool. You'd be better off using the technique of pounding on the steering knuckle and lower control arm with a hammer to knock them lose. But better yet, you can use pullers to break the the outer tie rod free of the steering knuckle of the ball joint and to break the balljoint free of the lower control. Autozone most likely rents pullers for free. Just rent an assortment so you'll find one that fits each application. Pullers won't do any damage to your components like the pickle fork and hammer technique will do.

Here's a video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did for replacing lower ball joints on our rigs. We show the use of pullers in the video. Enjoy the show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bfLvtEnX9qk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Thanks so much for saving that mistake! We used a pickle bar the first time I did this, but that was because we weren't worried about the boots since we were replacing the OTRE's anyway.

The puller I'm after is a pitman arm puller, right? Just want to make sure so I know what I'm asking for later! Thanks!

 

[mtbtim]

Thanks so much for saving that mistake! We used a pickle bar the first time I did this, but that was because we weren't worried about the boots since we were replacing the OTRE's anyway.

The puller I'm after is a pitman arm puller, right? Just want to make sure so I know what I'm asking for later! Thanks!

Just rent an assortment of pullers since it doesn't cost you anything. Better to get a bunch of different sizes so you don't have to go back to Autozone if you find the ones you rented don't work.

But yes, I used a pitman arm puller from my OTC set to break the balljoint away from the lower control arm and I used a tie rod puller to break the tie rod loose from the steering knuckle on the ball joint.

 

[atalarico]

So, this is a comparison between the 555 Sankei LBJs that I put on 32k miles ago and the new OEM ones. The old ones were very hard to manipulate and felt crunchy, so obviously no good. The boots were torn at this weird rubber knob part on the boot. Almost like this part was designed to stick out and tear. So weird. https://vimeo.com/171968675

It actually was a very straightforward replacement and I was done in 3 hours (took my time and had a friend over). I alllllmost jinxed myself when, after stating the one side went so smoothly, I very nearly completely stripped the bolt heads off of one of the other side's bolts! I basically had one more shot at getting it out so I turned the wheel to get a better angle at it, and got very lucky. That would have sucked.

I checked my TREs while I was down there and of course one had a busted boot, but it still felt and looked good as far as the movement went. The other side (not the one in the video) had an intact boot but when I would lift the tie rod and let it fall, it would just plummet. So I guess that means TREs are in my future? Obviously not as critical as my LBJs so I'm going to put it off until I get bored again. Plus, they don't look too hard to replace and I did it once before about 4 years ago. I'm open to input though if I am forgetting what a pain they can be.

https://vimeo.com/171969628

PS yes, it might be time for a free replacement set of sway bar links too from Autozone, eh?

 

[SAYWHAT]

Camelback listing is for 2wd lbj. Is 4wd part # the same? How about the bolt part #

 

[atalarico]

Camelback listing is for 2wd lbj. Is 4wd part # the same? How about the bolt part #

You have to read the parts listings carefully. There are 4wd ones listed as well when you search "lower ball joint". Also, if you look at the part number it's often the same part number across different descriptions. So the part for "4333039585 - lower ball joint
4-Runner; Right 2WD 4-RUNNER (95-02) TACOMA "

is the same part number as

"4333039585 - lower ball joint
4-Runner; Right 4WD COIL SPRING"

and
"4333039585 - lower ball joint
4WD Right"

The listings can be confusing, just call them if you have questions. Good people.

 

[edeuce]

Well, had the time to change LBJ's out yesterday. I have 311,000 miles w no service records on my 4Runner. Old LBJ had torn boots but really no sign of wear. They were smooth no play. So anyway I have peace of mind for another 100K !!


Can anyone tell what brand these are ?? not Toyota....

 

[nobb]

Can anyone tell what brand these are ?? not Toyota....

Are you sure those aren't OEM Toyota joints? The polished ball and grease consistency looks like it came from an OEM joint. The Sankei 555 branded joints use a thicker grease (cheap lithium yellow) and don't have a polished ball.

 

[ghjuk]

Agreed. I would just be interested on any data and the type of off roading done. I check mine every oil change and I have a SS 1.2 lift on mine. I put new LBJ in when I did the lift. Rig has 258k on it and I figured it was time.

 

[atalarico]

So, I had a chance to drive on the new LBJs. While it didn't eliminate the squirrelly steering issues, it certainly helped. I noticed that my wheel still goes a little crazy when I hit bums with my front right tire, which is also the side that had the ITRE that would just drop the OTRE when I was checking it during the install of the LBJs. Am I right to assume that this is the likely culprit of my steering wheel play?

Edited to add: I just noticed I said "when I hit bums with my front right tire". Of course I meant "bumps", but it was too funny so I left it in (and no, I don't advocate hitting the homeless, and I definitely consider them human beings).

 

[edeuce]

Are you sure those aren't OEM Toyota joints? The polished ball and grease consistency looks like it came from an OEM joint. The Sankei 555 branded joints use a thicker grease (cheap lithium yellow) and don't have a polished ball.

Nobb, The letters stamped on LBJ's don't match the Toyota brand.???

 

[4racer]

So, I had a chance to drive on the new LBJs. While it didn't eliminate the squirrelly steering issues, it certainly helped. I noticed that my wheel still goes a little crazy when I hit bums with my front right tire, which is also the side that had the ITRE that would just drop the OTRE when I was checking it during the install of the LBJs. Am I right to assume that this is the likely culprit of my steering wheel play?

Edited to add: I just noticed I said "when I hit bums with my front right tire". Of course I meant "bumps", but it was too funny so I left it in (and no, I don't advocate hitting the homeless, and I definitely consider them human beings).

If you haven't, try doing the steering rack bushings. Made a world of difference in my 4Runner.

 

[4racer]

Back up for more feedback.

 

[mtbtim]

Back up for more feedback.

What more do you want? Even if you don't detect play, it's pretty much a consensus on this forum to just change them if you got a decent amount of miles on your rig. Seems many are saying around 150,000 miles is a good benchmark. Your question about people with lifted rigs and how much life they are getting out of their balljoints is dependent on a lot of variables. Do they wheel their rigs or just look cool as a pavement pounder. Are they in the rust belt or do they live on the sunny west coast. Do they have burly heavy wheels or are they stock. See what I'm getting at?

You're not going to get any definitive answer here even if you researched it for the next 20 years because there's just too many variables. I'd say, if you are lifted, have wheel spacers, and wheel hard, you might want to change them every 50,000 miles. If you're lifted and don't wheel much, maybe 100,000 miles. If you're not lifted, wheel some, maybe every 150,000 miles. And, DO NOT use aftermarket LBJ. Always OEM.

I replaced mine at 140,000 miles. For $200, it was worth the piece of mind.

 

[4racer]

What more do you want? Even if you don't detect play, it's pretty much a consensus on this forum to just change them if you got a decent amount of miles on your rig. Seems many are saying around 150,000 miles is a good benchmark. Your question about people with lifted rigs and how much life they are getting out of their balljoints is dependent on a lot of variables. Do they wheel their rigs or just look cool as a pavement pounder. Are they in the rust belt or do they live on the sunny west coast. Do they have burly heavy wheels or are they stock. See what I'm getting at?

You're not going to get any definitive answer here even if you researched it for the next 20 years because there's just too many variables. I'd say, if you are lifted, have wheel spacers, and wheel hard, you might want to change them every 50,000 miles. If you're lifted and don't wheel much, maybe 100,000 miles. If you're not lifted, wheel some, maybe every 150,000 miles. And, DO NOT use aftermarket LBJ. Always OEM.

I replaced mine at 140,000 miles. For $200, it was worth the piece of mind.

I think you're looking at what im asking the wrong way. I already replaced mine and have no worries. What im really trying to do is get feedback for how long and what type of wheeling people do. I have heard some people having to replace them every 25k, and other people going much longer. If you look at every single LBJ thread here, people ALWAYS ask when to replace them. Dude to the wealth of knowledge here I was trying to give people a better idea.

There is no exact answer, we all know things. Trying to get a best practices and hoping to stop any catastrophic failures.