Sr5. With spacers is there cutting with the struts?
Lifted Springs
- Thread starter isam250
- Start date
Sr5. With spacers is there cutting with the struts?
eddiebx
New member
Why on earth would you ever have to cut your struts :tape:
Keemonrunnin
Member
No. Spacers just go on top of the springs.
Icic. Are there complete shocks and spring like a coilover adjustable style struts? I always went with a complete suspension system so I can keep my stock suspension completely intact
Keemonrunnin
Member
Take a look at what some of the vendors offer for you. Go to the main page & look at toytec,metal tech.
I actually messaged toytec but no reply. Just wondering would a mild lift would I have to re gear?
KTMRIDER
New member
the lift has no direct effect on gearing, its when you go to larger diameter tires or putting on a bunch of heavy bumpers, winches, skids when re-gearing is desired.
T4R_Finally
New member
If you consider it a mild lift, then why are you bothering with the high end stuff? Put the Bilsteins on the front and either spacers or springs in the back and be done with it. If you ever tow anything or haul a bunch of stuff in the back, go with the springs.
thats what im debating on. Looks like everyone using the 5100 shocks. I would like to just have a complete setup, so i can retain my stock suspension as a whole, instead of having to use the OE top hat
I just wanted to chime back in because I thought of this thread yesterday.
With my setup, I was at Costco and had $350 worth of stuff in the back (including a large bag of "baker" size potato's and three large boxes full of groceries)... plus the fact I have third row , the gobi rack, and ladder.
Visually the truck was still level. I will say I only have 1,500 miles on the truck now... so they are still relatively new springs.
Give the 5100's a try with rear spring spacers... you can always cheaply upgrade the rear springs if need be. I think you will be quite satisfied and your pocketbook will thank you.
With my setup, I was at Costco and had $350 worth of stuff in the back (including a large bag of "baker" size potato's and three large boxes full of groceries)... plus the fact I have third row , the gobi rack, and ladder.
Visually the truck was still level. I will say I only have 1,500 miles on the truck now... so they are still relatively new springs.
Give the 5100's a try with rear spring spacers... you can always cheaply upgrade the rear springs if need be. I think you will be quite satisfied and your pocketbook will thank you.
so all i have to do is replace the front with the 5100 shocks and thats it? no springs? a shock makes the lift? i thought you need springs?
T4R_Finally
New member
I was wondering if you were "getting it" or not. Now I see why you still have questions. Your front end has factory coilovers. The bilsteins replace the front shocks and have an adjustable base plate for the factory coil. That puts more preload on the coils and lifts the front end. The 4 settings on the bilsteins (front only) are stock height, .85" lift, 1.75" lift, or 2.5" lift. So you maintain the exact front suspension setup but can get lift out of it. The rear shocks are not adjustable but are compatible with stock height up to about 2" of lift in the rear by way of coil spacers or longer coils. One might think this would create a harsher ride, but it actually improves the ride.
Just look through the bilstein shock and how it's adjustable, man they say it's safe but just looking at it seems sketchy. A snap ring that's hold up the perch where the spring sits. I just read some thread on failure on other trucks. Has anyone had a the ring snap on them.
Last edited:
T4R_Finally
New member
If it were some Asian no-name internet crap, it would make me nervous. But Bilstein is a premier shock brand known for their engineering and r&d born out of off-road competition. As long as the snap ring is set properly, it's not going anywhere. How do you tell it is set properly? Very simple - once you get it in the groove you want it, just make sure you can turn it by hand. It it's bound up somehow or not seated in the groove, it either won't turn or will be very hard to turn. Just before mine were installed, a member started a thread here reporting a failure. The consensus of the responses was that it had to have been installed incorrectly and even the poster agreed that it may have been. That is why I took my snap ring pliers and set the snap rings on mine myself before letting the mechanic install them. The shop I go to has years of experience and they won't do or install anything they think is unsafe and they did nothing but compliment me on my choice of a top quality shock.
JustinFro
Member
Do you have the exact part number for the Bilstein 5100s? I have a 2010 Limited in need of leveling. Thanks.
Is it 24-196499?
Bilstein shocks and struts for cars and trucks - Shockwarehouse.com
Is it 24-196499?
Bilstein shocks and struts for cars and trucks - Shockwarehouse.com
eddiebx
New member
5100s are not an option for you on the LE unless you plan to change all 4 and ditch the XREAS. If you want to level the LE, just go with a front spacer...it's pretty much your only option if you want to keep the XREAS
I wouldn't say Asian no name crap isn't good. A lot of these small up coming company (no name) comes from the same manufactures as the high end one. A lot of the products are actually the same exact thing with different vavling and color. A lot of the stories I read were incorect installation of the snap rings. I'm still debating on going with bilstein all around and springs in the rear. What's a good combo for the rear springs to run? I'm don't like the rake stances. I'm assuming with the 5100 this would cure the nosedive ? Also if I run springs do I need to drop the diff?
1engineer
Moderator
I have only heard of two cases of incorrectly installed snap rings. That is NOT a lot. These guys have laid out options for you and the springs to run in the rear are almost endless. The 5100's won't completely cure the nose dive but it will be much better than what you have. If you have read any lift threads at all you would know that diff drop is not needed below 3".
Now, Bilstein is one of the top shock manufacturers in the world. Sure, a no name company could be just as good but I seriously doubt they could come close to the price.
Last thing: I have read your questions throughout this thread and I highly suggest you do some research (other than asking questions in an internet forum) on basic suspension operation and THEN learn about lifting a vehicle. There are several great articles out there from Truck Trend and other websites that can offer a lot of good general information. The more you know, the better questions you can ask. Good luck.
I know about suspension. I've worked on a lot if cars adding adjustable coilovers, camber arms uca, lca. Never did any lifts. That's why im asking these question. Since it is a forum where members join to share their insight on certain subjects and who people who just got into this scene to ask questions that one may not be similar with. I've searched the lift thread plenty of times and sometimes the answers just aren't there. I've also message a couple members on the board with question on their lift, since I've seen the height they have and it's similar to what I want to achieve. Searching through coutlness pages of lift thread to answer one simple question that most people would know the answer to but maybe chose not to answer? Thanks for the info t4r_finally I appreciate it
Last edited:
To OP~
T4R is referring to my setup.
5100's Installation + Daystar 1.5" Spacers on a 2014
It is really a great lift. Two problems though now... Good luck finding the front Bilsteins and good luck finding the SAW coils. They are both on backorder from every dealer I had checked with.
I finally found the fronts at shock warehouse so was fortunate. A couple of days later I referred another member to them and they were again out of stock and on backorder at shock warehouse.
Just to reinforce what T4R said, the trucks drive a million times better with Bilsteins on all four. I am sure the same goes with OME. Just decide how much lift you want. If you want to run 285/70/17's you are going to have to slightly trim or shift anyway.
It is all preference. I am an old Rover guy (at 31, lol) so I actually don't prefer the look of overly wide tires on 4 Wheel Drives which is why I kept the stock size when I purchased my duratrax. When you go to a full 3" OME, then it might be time to run the 285's just for looks, but I might still opt for something narrower and taller.... Again, it's preference (and application).
To me, this is awesome:
and like this Series III:
That's perfect thank you. From the photo it seems like the rear sags a little bit maybe just the photo that makes it seem like that
