Light Racing UCA Rust?

[Laubage]

So, I've only had my lift installed for about 2 years and I just noticed yesterday that my Light Racing UCA's are rusting over pretty badly. It seems like it's progressing pretty fast for something that was painted from the factory. I just moved up to Michigan in October, but I have washed my car at least once a month since winter started to get the salt off.

Should I be worried about this?

 

[Colo15T4R]

Seems excessive for only being a couple years old. I would send SPC Performance a picture of the rust and request new UCA. I will be doing the same if mine look like that after 2 years. Good luck, keep us posted.:scared:

 

[Intruder]

Yeah that does seem pretty bad for two years and only a few months of that time somewhere they use salt on the roads. I had my LR UCAs for two years and they didn't look anywhere near that bad despite the salt and other crap they use on the roads here.

 

[cbielat]

I've had mine on for just over three years. Mine have rusted like that as well and more. I've also rebuilt them three times. Definitely upgrading.

 

[harper7]

Look up under that rubber ball joint grease holder and see if the ball joint and bolt is rusted.If it's rusted under there,replace them for safety. It can get ugly if a ball joint let's loose! That's where mine rusted despite looking sealed and why I took them off. My arms had no rust like yours but they don't use salt much here in Texas.

 

[Laubage]

I've had mine on for just over three years. Mine have rusted like that as well and more. I've also rebuilt them three times. Definitely upgrading.

cbliet, can you post a picture of yours so I can compare?

I just sent SPC an inquiry on their website. We'll see what they say about it. I hope I can get it replaced...

 

[Laubage]

Look up under that rubber ball joint grease holder and see if the ball joint and bolt is rusted.If it's rusted under there,replace them for safety. It can get ugly if a ball joint let's loose! That's where mine rusted despite looking sealed and why I took them off. My arms had no rust like yours but they don't use salt much here in Texas.

Hey Harper... what UCA did you replace yours with? Was SPC not willing to replace them?

 

[harper7]

They said a one year warranty and it was about a year and a half and would sell me a new ball joint.:flipoff: I still have them and going to send them to them for a complete overhaul and sell them cheap.
They were willing to replace the bad design bushings which was there first design and cracked out.

I originally bought a set of used TC's for $400 over on the FJ forum that were pretty well shot when I bought them and I since rebuilt then with the newer design stainless balls and new bushings. Been a year and a half and still perfect and quiet. TC's For The Win:guitar3:

 

[cbielat]

cbliet, can you post a picture of yours so I can compare?

I just sent SPC an inquiry on their website. We'll see what they say about it. I hope I can get it replaced...

Here's what mine look like after a little over three years. My coil over threads are pretty bad as well.

 

[cbielat]

You're going to see this come on faster depending on where you live in the country. Me being in the Northeast, it happens quickly. It's inevitable.

 

[Intruder]

It can get ugly if a ball joint let's loose!

Yes, yes it can.

That's a broken CV there.
DSC_2110.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr

What the ball joints looked like when they came out.
DSC_2116.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr

The passenger side boot looked completely sealed and intact yet this is the dirt that came out of it. No grease left in it at all.
DSC_2122.jpg by BurningChr0me, on Flickr

What the CV looked like when it came out.
Untitled by BurningChr0me, on Flickr

 

[TBrock]

Well will see how long this look lasts. :ranger: That's a bummer .. I wish I would have seen this thread before I installed these last week.

Is this common on most UCA's? Or is this unique to the Light Racing?

 

[Laubage]

Well will see how long this look lasts. :ranger: That's a bummer .. I wish I would have seen this thread before I installed these last week.

Is this common on most UCA's? Or is this unique to the Light Racing?

I'm not really sure... but I contacted SPC and they said that "finish" isn't covered under their warranty because it's considered normal wear. I'm not sure I believe it with the amount of rust that's on it, but based on the post by [MENTION=76550]cbielat[/MENTION] it may just be normal in salty areas.

Anyone have any experience with salted roads and Total Chaos UCA's? What about Camburg or Icon?

 

[Jhalko]

I'm not really sure... but I contacted SPC and they said that "finish" isn't covered under their warranty because it's considered normal wear. I'm not sure I believe it with the amount of rust that's on it, but based on the post by [MENTION=76550]cbielat[/MENTION] it may just be normal in salty areas.

Anyone have any experience with salted roads and Total Chaos UCA's? What about Camburg or Icon?

Seriously? Four winters of Mag chloride and my factory UCA's have no rust, I would have thought the LR could have made it one year. Since I plan on getting new UCA's I'm curious other experience as well, I won't be getting LR either way.

 

[Jeremy556]

LR's have what looks like 2 thin coats of black spray paint.

TC arms have paint or powdercoat with, what always seemed to me, a ridiculously thick clear coat of something, almost seems like polyurethane. I have still managed to somehow* nick it while adjusting my coilovers and have a few rust spots.

* hitting the spanner wrench with a 10lb sledge hammer and a good wind up

 

[Daily-runner]

Yea... I'm happy I went a different route.

 

[Jhalko]

LR's have what looks like 2 thin coats of black spray paint.

TC arms have paint or powdercoat with, what always seemed to me, a ridiculously thick clear coat of something, almost seems like polyurethane.p

I'm thinking Camburg ball joint or TC, squeaky uniballs don't sound like the best option given my moderate off-roading though.

 

[Jeremy556]

I'm thinking Camburg ball joint or TC, squeaky uniballs don't sound like the best option given my moderate off-roading though.

I thought the same thing (why I got LR UCAs), but with the stainless uniballs, it is a non-issue. I replaced my stainless uniballs a while back, just because I was taking the arms out anyway and bought them ahead of time.

After comparing them, on the next rebuild, I might press the old ones back.

 

[Jhalko]

I thought the same thing (why I got LR UCAs), but with the stainless uniballs, it is a non-issue. I replaced my stainless uniballs a while back, just because I was taking the arms out anyway and bought them ahead of time.

After comparing them, on the next rebuild, I might press the old ones back.

Can you clarify? The stainless uniballs haven't squeakked for you? I'm wondering about durability, I won't be abusing (using) mine as you do. I'm still on the fence about buying those Camburg moog ball joint or just going TC, still researching. I need more caster than stock but I've got 60k on them and figured I'd replace UCA this summer when I get new tires.

 

[Intruder]

Can you clarify? The stainless uniballs haven't squeakked for you? I'm wondering about durability, I won't be abusing (using) mine as you do. I'm still on the fence about buying those Camburg moog ball joint or just going TC, still researching. I need more caster than stock but I've got 60k on them and figured I'd replace UCA this summer when I get new tires.

Two winters (not two years as they were put in just before winter) on my TC and they're in excellent shape. We use a lot of salt and calcium chloride up here too. I can post a pic after work today.