Light Racing UCA's

[martini]

Does anyone have the same type bushing in theirs as I do?? Anyone at all??

Qjake, we bought ours at the same time or very close at least and I got the older style, compared to yours. This page shows the older style being converted to the newer style which you already have (New Bushings for Light Racing UCA's. - Tacoma World Forums). I wonder if the new ones squeak more than the old one? Are your still quite? I just installed mine and greased them like crazy.

It also looks like some of the instructions from SPC have changed, comparing my printout to the version available online now. First the top nut on the ball joint says to torque it to 150 ft/lbs, but my print out said 120 ft/lbs so I set mine to 150. Also the newest instructions online (for your bushing style I think) says to not re-use the large washers that came stock, but my print out, possibly just for the older style bushing says to use the supplied washers and the stock ones which I did. Is this what others have done with the older style? Here's my orientation, (head of line bold) | (small supplied washer) | (stock washer making sure it's in the same orientation I took it off, so the lowest point of the concave is facing outwards) | (inner small supplied washer) | (inner small supplied washer) | (stock washer) | (small supplied washer) | (long bolt nut).

One last question, the castle nut torque spec from SPC is 45 ft/lbs, but Toyota has it a 81 ft/lbs, what is everyone going with? I split the difference and went with 65 ft/lbs using the SPC new castle nut.

 

[martini]

Is this what others have done with the older style? Here's my orientation, (head of line bold) | (small supplied washer) | (stock washer making sure it's in the same orientation I took it off, so the lowest point of the concave is facing outwards) | (inner small supplied washer) | (inner small supplied washer) | (stock washer) | (small supplied washer) | (long bolt nut).

Just found the answer to my own question, looks like this is how it should be, as per the version of the instructions that came with mine.

 

[4ShoreRunner]

I haven't posted about this yet on the forum but thought I would throw some info at everyone.

Unbeknownst to me, I snapped my driver side LR UCA while on the White Rim Trail in Moab, UT.

I then did the second half of fins and things, proceeded to drive 2250 miles from UT to VA with the broken UCA. Then drove around on it for about a month before I was finally able to get to Duc's shop to get the "strange front end noise" looked at. Sure enough, the UCA snapped at the weld where the arm connects to the forward eyelet/brushing.

SPC provided a new arm under warranty and it was at Bobby's shop within a day or two. Great customer service.

This post isn't to say bad things about their quality - their failed product safely transported me over 3000 miles without issue. (Not that I'd try that again). I applaud their customer service as well - hitting woops and table tops on the white rim trail at 40 MPH and constantly hitting the bump stops wasn't doing me any favors.

I'll add that Lima was running LR UCAs and was probably pushing his truck harder than I was with his ICONs and his UCAs are fine.

 

[limamike]

Update on my LR UCAs: they need to be rebuilt. They are creaking like crazy for the past 5k miles or so. When I get some time I'm going to chase the warranty with SP. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

 

[KCcarguy]

Update on my LR UCAs: they need to be rebuilt. They are creaking like crazy for the past 5k miles or so. When I get some time I'm going to chase the warranty with SP. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

What's the milage on them? Is it true they improved the design of the ball joint? Any idea if your's are the "improved" model?

 

[limamike]

What's the milage on them? Is it true they improved the design of the ball joint? Any idea if your's are the "improved" model?

Mine is the old model. I got mine right before they changed the bushing design. Mileage is around 12k or so. I'd have to check logs to be sure.

 

[4ShoreRunner]

Mine is the old model. I got mine right before they changed the bushing design. Mileage is around 12k or so. I'd have to check logs to be sure.

Mine are creaking too. Sound was barely there after I got them replaced and now its just a daily annoyance. Do they need to be yanked out to regrease or are there other options while installed?

 

[Intruder]

If you don't have time to pull and grease them what I do is go to the car wash and hit everything in the front suspension with the pressure washer really good. I usually start with the prewash stuff (pretty sure it's just Simple Green) then the high pressure soap, then finally rinse it all with high pressure water. After it's all dry I hit everything with some 3-in-1 white lithium grease spray. That keeps the creaks away for at least a month or until I go on a trail with deep mud puddles.

 

[limamike]

Mine are creaking too. Sound was barely there after I got them replaced and now its just a daily annoyance. Do they need to be yanked out to regrease or are there other options while installed?

I've tried lithium grease and silicone sprays and it hasn't helped much. I may try what Intruder just suggested, though!

 

[4ShoreRunner]

If you don't have time to pull and grease them what I do is go to the car wash and hit everything in the front suspension with the pressure washer really good. I usually start with the prewash stuff (pretty sure it's just Simple Green) then the high pressure soap, then finally rinse it all with high pressure water. After it's all dry I hit everything with some 3-in-1 white lithium grease spray. That keeps the creaks away for at least a month or until I go on a trail with deep mud puddles.

I will also give this a shot! Thanks!

 

[Stu-Runner]

More LR UCA Noise...

Just recently installed the Icon coilovers and a set of LR UCA.

I read a ton of the LR UCA threads and was aware of some the noise issues others had.

I was all excited because had the installer added zerk fittings to them hoping that would help...guess what? The are sqeaking and creaking 3 days after the install and I lubed the crap out of them. What a bummer! They have the newer bushings as well.

I really don't feel like shelling out the cash for the Icon arms. Plus the uniball joints require constant lube as well.

I'm thinking this particular set of arms are duds...

Any suggestions for other arms?

Stu

 

[eddiebx]

Just recently installed the Icon coilovers and a set of LR UCA.

I read a ton of the LR UCA threads and was aware of some the noise issues others had.

I was all excited because had the installer added zerk fittings to them hoping that would help...guess what? The are sqeaking and creaking 3 days after the install and I lubed the crap out of them. What a bummer! They have the newer bushings as well.

I really don't feel like shelling out the cash for the Icon arms. Plus the uniball joints require constant lube as well.

I'm thinking this particular set of arms are duds...

Any suggestions for other arms?

Stu

How exactly were the zerk fittings added on and how is the "grease path" (sorry I don't know the technical terms ) being plumbed to inside of the bushing?

I am not sure if all the new poly bushings on the LR UCAs are all like this, but I just looked at mine and the bushing is one solid piece. Which means that if you simply welded a zerks fitting on to the outer sleeve that holds the bushing, you'd be feeding lube to only the outer diameter of the poly bushing.

However, as far as I can tell, you actually need to be lubing the inner diameter of the bushing, since this is what is constantly pivoting around the inner metal sleeve.

Did you happen to take pictures of how your guy added them? Pretty interesting mod if you can get it to work out, since taking the UCAs off just to lubricate the sleeves would surely be a pain.

 

[Stu-Runner]

I believe the the bushings were split and with space left (not enough to compromise the bushing) but enough to allow grease to get to the inner area. That's what I discussed originally with the dude. Allthough you raise a good point...I need to verify that.

Would have done it myself, but current living situation doesn't allow for it unfortunately.

The other issue could be the bolt torque. I am wondering (hoping) that they may have cranked the crap out of the bolts and compressing the bushings too much.

The way the lift install went down makes me nervous about the whole thing...

How exactly were the zerk fittings added on and how is the "grease path" (sorry I don't know the technical terms ) being plumbed to inside of the bushing?

I am not sure if all the new poly bushings on the LR UCAs are all like this, but I just looked at mine and the bushing is one solid piece. Which means that if you simply welded a zerks fitting on to the outer sleeve that holds the bushing, you'd be feeding lube to only the outer diameter of the poly bushing.

However, as far as I can tell, you actually need to be lubing the inner diameter of the bushing, since this is what is constantly pivoting around the inner metal sleeve.

Did you happen to take pictures of how your guy added them? Pretty interesting mod if you can get it to work out, since taking the UCAs off just to lubricate the sleeves would surely be a pain.

 

[eddiebx]

I believe the the bushings were split and with space left (not enough to compromise the bushing) but enough to allow grease to get to the inner area. That's what I discussed originally with the dude. Allthough you raise a good point...I need to verify that.

Would have done it myself, but current living situation doesn't allow for it unfortunately.

The other issue could be the bolt torque. I am wondering (hoping) that they may have cranked the crap out of the bolts and compressing the bushings too much.

The way the lift install went down makes me nervous about the whole thing...

Don't quote me on this but I think you can't over torque the bushings simply because there's that inner metal sleeve which will take the brute of the compression forces.

This is not like on typical sway bar end links where you can potentially over squish the poly bushings if you crank them down too hard.

Unfortunately at this point, only way to find out what's up is if you pull them back off and inspect it all

Good luck sir!

 

[Stu-Runner]

Don't quote me on this but I think you can't over torque the bushings simply because there's that inner metal sleeve which will take the brute of the compression forces.

This is not like on typical sway bar end links where you can potentially over squish the poly bushings if you crank them down too hard.

Unfortunately at this point, only way to find out what's up is if you pull them back off and inspect it all

Good luck sir!

Yeah that makes sense, so I'm kind back to my original thoughts that the LR UCAs are no good. Sounds like from reading the previous posts some are and some aren't.

Like you said it's tear down time...fun!

Stu

 

[Stu-Runner]

ICON Tubular UCAs?

Has anyone tried these?

I had no idea that ICON made tubular UCAs as an alternative to the $1300+ billet alumninum arms.

They are priced well at around $700. I know they are uniballs which do require some maintenace compared to standard booted ball joints.

58450 - 2003+ Toyota 4Runner Tubular Uniball Upper Control Arms

Stu

 

[thebwlife]

Has anyone tried these?

I had no idea that ICON made tubular UCAs as an alternative to the $1300+ billet alumninum arms.

They are priced well at around $700. I know they are uniballs which do require some maintenace compared to standard booted ball joints.

58450 - 2003+ Toyota 4Runner Tubular Uniball Upper Control Arms

Stu

are these set at +2 caster like the LR UCAs (so you can get +4 total)?

Will they allow for more adjustment of the system? or do they just only allow more droop?

 

[Stu-Runner]

That's a good question...not sure. I'll give Icon a call and see if they have the same adjustments as LR arms. Since they are uniball's not sure how caster adjustment works exactly.

 

[05Rrunner]

Installing my new style L/R arms next week. I had an earlier set with the rubber bushing in my 4th gen and they were stock quiet but the bushings ripped and cracked pretty bad. I was hopeful when I saw the new bushings and special grease, but now worried about noise. This is why I bought the Light Racing in the first place. That stock style ball joint is nice. The Iniballs are trick but are not for me.

 

[thebwlife]

That's a good question...not sure. I'll give Icon a call and see if they have the same adjustments as LR arms. Since they are uniball's not sure how caster adjustment works exactly.

They won't have that caster adjustment cause there is nothing to adjust. But if they are set with +2 caster when manufactured then you should be able to get +4 total out of it (which seems to be the consensus on the best ride according to [MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] who seems to have the most knowledge on this model.)

Also FYI they have a set in scratch and dent for $550. Might just be a run in powder coat then you can get a sweet deal!