Light Racing UCA's
- Thread starter Qjake
- Start date
thebwlife
Senior Member
I'd talk to metaltech and tell them what you want. If you want icon do the icon with their tubular UCAs and I bet it's a nice system. Lots of people have zero problems with the LR UCAs too.
thebwlife
Senior Member
These are an option also if someone doesn't want uniball. Just need some OEM ball joints pressed in and your good to go. I like not having the adjustment stuff on top, I assume these are all made with +2 caster already manufactured in. One less adjustment to worry about.
Camburg Toyota FJ 2wd/4wd 07-13 Performance Balljoint UCA | Camburg Engineering | Camburg Engineering
Here is an install on a FJ - http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/toytec-lifts/138284-toytec-rocks-3-lift-installed-2011-fj.html
These are for a lower but the idea is the same.
How to press in a ball joint: http://youtu.be/0z-gCDC8oOw
How to press out a ball joint: http://youtu.be/IVluVuiFnlw
Camburg Toyota FJ 2wd/4wd 07-13 Performance Balljoint UCA | Camburg Engineering | Camburg Engineering
Here is an install on a FJ - http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/toytec-lifts/138284-toytec-rocks-3-lift-installed-2011-fj.html
These are for a lower but the idea is the same.
How to press in a ball joint: http://youtu.be/0z-gCDC8oOw
How to press out a ball joint: http://youtu.be/IVluVuiFnlw
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thebwlife
Senior Member
Cheaper because you have to buy the ball joint seperately and install or remove you OEM one and install.
Narkhelek
New member
I have a pair of Camburg UCA with the 1.25" uniballs. They cost over $200 more than the LR UCA and I've never been able to get any great +caster numbers with them. They are heavily built but I wouldn't buy them again.
Stu-Runner
Member
I think mgrande might be right...one you start monkeying with suspension stuff I guess the noise makes sense...
It's so funny because the noise messes with your head. This setup is awesome and rides so much better than stock. But every time I hear the squeaks and creaks it bums me out...I end up turning up the stereo.
Might try out the ICON tubular arms in lieu of these LR ones. I don't think the lack of extra caster adjustment will make a difference for me since I'm running the 265's DT's.
It's so funny because the noise messes with your head. This setup is awesome and rides so much better than stock. But every time I hear the squeaks and creaks it bums me out...I end up turning up the stereo.
Might try out the ICON tubular arms in lieu of these LR ones. I don't think the lack of extra caster adjustment will make a difference for me since I'm running the 265's DT's.
chrisdowling84
New member
I have the LR UCA's and did it with the ultimate lift from toytech. I noticed a small amount of noise within days of completing the lift, but it became really bad after i towed a heavy load (trailer) from Fort Drum, to Fort Belvoir. I looked at everything and lubed the crap outta the bushings and it made a small difference. Within a month after I made the move, the noise just went away. So fast forward 6 months aka Friday, i get done washing the 4 runner and when i was cleaning the rims I look in and see that my large bolt holding the upper control arm to the frame 5 inches to the left and only being held by one side. So i order a new bolt, completely disassemble the UCA and lube it with some Lucas grease, tighten the crap outta it with some thread locker, and now it drives like a dream.
harper7
Senior Member
Which uniballs do you have in your TC's? I rebuilt mine with the new FK stainless steel uniballs FK Bearing WSSX16T Precision Wide Series Spherical Bearing 1.000 x 2.125 Teflon Liner last fall and they are and have been quiet as a mouse. Love em !Their old chromed uniballs TC used before last year are the ones that are known to squeak.Easy to change them out.
eddiebx
New member
[MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] since I think you've had experience with both, could you tell me if the LR UCAs allow for a bit more articulation vs the OEM UCAs.
Is it something like, OEM UCA < LR UCA < TC UCA, as far as the range of motion goes? Or are the LRs and the OEMs pretty much the same since they are both just standard looking ball joints?
Is it something like, OEM UCA < LR UCA < TC UCA, as far as the range of motion goes? Or are the LRs and the OEMs pretty much the same since they are both just standard looking ball joints?
harper7
Senior Member
The LR's have stock style but not stock size ball joints so they give alot more travel then stock,not to mention the 2+ degrees of caster lost with a lift built in by the angle of the ball joint.
I have some measurement pics somewhere that I took when I swapped LR for TC UCA's but the LR's actually got a wee bit more travel at the hub then the TC's much to my surprise.However,the bushings and one ball joint wore out at around 30k miles but they were the LR old style bushings but were quiet before they wore out.The new ones are supposed to be noisier.
According to what I read over on the FJ and 120 forum,the bushings are a real biatch to replace and I still have them but haven't bought or tackled the replacement so I can sell them. I may just send them in to the manufacturer/SPC for them to rebuild them and then sell them as my TC's are a keeper and real easy to change the uniballs when they wear out.
TheOnlyQP
New member
So far I have zero noise with my Ultimate/LR UCA setup. When we installed it we made sure to grease the crap out of everything. I did use a bit of thread locker on the long bolt as well. It was my first time doing a lift so I was pretty anal about torque settings.
My gravel driveway floods every time we get a good rain so the suspension has had its share of sand/water/grime all over it. I don't wash it near as often as I should either.
My gravel driveway floods every time we get a good rain so the suspension has had its share of sand/water/grime all over it. I don't wash it near as often as I should either.
eddiebx
New member
That's really interesting, thanks for taking the measurements!
Yeah...the new specride bushings really do look like a huge pain to install, probably need lots of patience and a big vice to get em in, let's hope mine don't wear out too quickly
mgrande
New member
Just the standard TC ones. I'm pretty sure my bushings on the UCA bolt are what's making all the noise.
brockeverly
New member
I went for the LR over the Camburg on my Tundra due to the extra alignment flexibility. The Camburg's were more expensive for a uniball, but less expensive for the ball joint model (that uses factory ball joints like the LR). A buddy of mine is running the Camburg's on his FJ and they are noisy as hell off road. After every trip we have to lube them. Not a big deal, but it still happens.
ainkiller:
joneseyyy
New member
I run the Camburg uniball arms. They can be noisy if you don't occasionally lube them but does not bother me. At about 40k on them and it is time to replace the uniballs. Have them on hand and DucMonsta's shop will swap them whenever the rest of my new front end parts show up!
eddiebx
New member
I went for the LR over the Camburg on my Tundra due to the extra alignment flexibility. The Camburg's were more expensive for a uniball, but less expensive for the ball joint model (that uses factory ball joints like the LR). A buddy of mine is running the Camburg's on his FJ and they are noisy as hell off road. After every trip we have to lube them. Not a big deal, but it still happens.
May I ask, how do you lube them after they are installed? I really hope you don't mean pulling the darn thing off and spreading the poly pushing lube inside each bushing and reinstalling...that would truly be a pain! You guys are making me not want to install my LRs anymore :sadwave:
thebwlife
Senior Member
The camburgs have grease zerks on the bushing area. And the uniball can be drip lubed.
I've had a 4wheeler w/ uniball on upper/lower A-arms that didnt make near as much noise as you guys describe. We'd lube them with non-sling chain lube w/ bel-ray brand. It creates a dry sticky wax type lube much like the discription of the tri lube that wheelers sells for them.
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