Load Range C vs Load Range E rated tires

Wow, you guys sure use some high PSI. I'd be wary of putting Es but am open to relatively "soft" Es. I'm running either P or C DuraTracs at 32/34 PSI and my 4th Gen rides well. Past 36 PSI, it feels harsh and bounces more than it dampens.

On my Jeep, I use 35" C-rated MTR Kevlars at 28 and 30 is max. I air them down to 10/11 on trails with no issues. They do have stiff sidewalls for a C. I tried D-rated Nitto MTs and they were a bit heavier for sure. I prefer the MTRs and I find Es too harsh. The guys I know who run them on offroading Wranglers, put 25-28 PSI on road and 10 offroad. Wranglers are light so they feel harsh to me but they are real MTs too.

Need new tires on the 4R soon so am watching all forums for tire feedback. All I have used are Ps or Cs at 30-34 PSI.

I had to read half way through 3 pages of posts about ride softness before seeing someone mention the sidewall toughness of a higher rated tire. A P or C rated tire typically has two ply sidewalls. The LT will have at least 3 ply sidewalls. The E rated even more.

The load rating is not what's so critical. Most of us won't exceed the load rating of a C. It's the sidewall thickness that makes a higher rated tire better for off road. It's less likely to puncture on rocks that hit the sidewall.

The higher load rating allows a higher max tire pressure. If you read the sidewall, you'll see that load rating is achieved at a specified tire pressure. You can run them lower than max pressure and get a softer ride.

"Ride quality" is entirely subjective, but there is likely a goldilocks zone. Some don't like the softness of P rated tires and prefer a stiffer sidewalk, and vice versa.

Keep in mind that most shops will let you inspect tires before install (leas the ones I've dealt with). If anyone in the future is curious just go in and compare different rating's of tires. The Goodyears that came on my 2016 Tacoma TRD Off Road (same ones as on the TRD Pro Tacoma) were kevlar reinforced, but when I had them swapped out for LT KO2's the difference in sidewalk thickness was substantial. There's no way I would trust those factory Goodyears on an extended off-road trip.. which brings me to a separate issue of Toyota needing to up their game regarding their tire offering on the TRD Pro model trucks (considering what Jeep, Ford, and the upcoming Chevy offer), but thats a different thread.

Regardless, go ask your tire shop to check out the tires, could help give you a new perspective on the differences and, hopefully, rest easier with whatever decision you come come up with.

An E load range tire is typically going to have a max inflation pressure of 80psi. Ladies and Gents running E load tires on our 4Runners are typically running in the 40psi range to suit the weight of our moderately to heavily modified vehicles.
It's not as if we're running our tires at max inflation(or anywhere near it), which would obviously rattle the teeth out of our f'ing heads. We're running the ~8-10psi over the 32psi door sticker pressure that's required to properly inflate the heavier carcass and give us the ride and load carrying capacity that we need.

From personal experience, switching from a P265 HT to an LT285E AT then an LT295E MT really didn't make much(if any) difference in ride quality for me, except to say that the vehicle now handles better and there's a bit more road noise.

Do not be afraid of going with an E load range tire if it means getting the size, tread pattern or look that you want.

I agree with ride quality being subjective because other factors like your type of shocks/suspension, overall weight of said tire/wheel combo, tire brand, tire pressure, etc.. I just went from 3-ply "D" rated 285/70R17 KM2 to 2-ply "E" rated 305/65R17 Mickey Thompson Deegan 38s and they feel a tad firmer even though they're 2 lbs lighter than the KM2. It's probably because the wider footprint. I do run the minimum tire pressure (35PSI) for pavement use to help soften the awful pothole ridden roads we have here in Oahu.
 
I just upgraded to 275 ko2 E rated tires. You will notice that the ride is slightly stiffer than P metric stock tires. It isn't terrible but noticeable. Still a smooth ride and no wandering.
 
Mpg

I just upgraded to 275 ko2 E rated tires. You will notice that the ride is slightly stiffer than P metric stock tires. It isn't terrible but noticeable. Still a smooth ride and no wandering.

Have you noticed mpg change. That's my biggest concern. 90% family Hauler, 10% off road until kids get older. 16 TEP w/KDSS
 
The only reason I'd run E rated tires on a 4runner would be if they were the only casing for a tire model I wanted (which is often the case). There's not many other reasons to do so for me. It makes as much sense to me as buying 19.5 wheels and running 133 rated tires on them.
 
I went from stock duelers to BFG KO2 285/70 Load Range E. I had an Icon suspension lift installed at the same time as the BFGs.

In my experience, going from stock everything to icon suspension and BFG load range e tires, the ride quality, cornering and overall feel were all improved. You also don't get as much sidewall flex when airing down when compared to load range c tires. At some point, you may risk losing a bead by going lower to compensate.

I did immediately notice a ~2mpg decrease with the lift/heavier tires. The added spinning/unsprung mass from the larger size load range e tires is significant.

FWIW, I run mine on-road at 45 PSI which puts the load capacity +/- where it is stock. Off-road, depending on load, I tend to run 18-20 psi without any issues. I have friends running 25 psi in their load C tires and getting more sidewall flex than I am at 20 psi.

That’s what I’m wondering and confused. I’m torn between the falken Wildpeaks or the ko2s in 275-70-17. Bfg only makes the KO2 in E. Falken has that size only in C range which is what I want but their C range is actually heavier than the ko2’s in E range. Doesn’t make sense. Since it’s 6 ply it will prolly be a smoother ride but since it’s heavier It’ll prolly be worse on the mpg. Why can’t bfg just make a C range in the 275-70-17. Makes no sense.
 
That’s what I’m wondering and confused. I’m torn between the falken Wildpeaks or the ko2s in 275-70-17. Bfg only makes the KO2 in E. Falken has that size only in C range which is what I want but their C range is actually heavier than the ko2’s in E range. Doesn’t make sense. Since it’s 6 ply it will prolly be a smoother ride but since it’s heavier It’ll prolly be worse on the mpg. Why can’t bfg just make a C range in the 275-70-17. Makes no sense.

It is bc Falken uses cheap regular steel plies. Everyone else uses high tensile steel plies, which are stronger and lighter.

You get what you pay for.....
 
Personally have run OEM Dunflops for about 31kmi, then E-rated KO2s for about 21kmi, and now C-rated DiscoAT3s about 47kmi.

There's 2 different schools of thought in the forum:
1) Drivers who use their 4Runner daily and get it off-road <10 times a year
2) Drivers who off-road at every chance and mod for the overland trips
The former need not look past C load, the latter might consider E load.

I'm very obviously the former. My experiences were mostly as a daily driver - 250lb driver, 7lb backpack on passenger seat, 40lb gear in cargo.

For me E load were a terrible ride. Only lowering the air pressure to 34psi improved it, but doing so added enough sway to make highway cloverleafs feel uncomfortable and dangerous. I ended up around 37psi as a compromise, but the ride was still too rough for my liking. On the other hand if you drove a Jeep for years before getting a 4Runner, you might not think it bad at all.
If your truck is mostly lightly loaded, stick with C load as your max. Your kidneys will thank you, and you won't look drunk trying to dodge every pothole on the road. On the other hand if your truck has porked up with lots of extra steel, a drawer system, cooler, roof rack, and roof top tent, then E load might be an option.
 
I just wonder if E load wears less than C load. I have C-load KO2s and it looks like I will get maybe 40k at best out of the tires. A buddy of mine had E load KO2s and he got over 50.
 
I just wonder if E load wears less than C load. I have C-load KO2s and it looks like I will get maybe 40k at best out of the tires. A buddy of mine had E load KO2s and he got over 50.

This is highly dependent upon the manufacturer. Most change the compound between passenger and LT tires, but I'd be surprised if they changed between C & E load tires. Compound, silica value, driving habits, normal loads, turns, and pavement temperature are just a few things that impact tire wear.
I put 21kmi on my KO2s, but it was 95% lightly loaded straight 70+mph interstate driving in flatland Ohio, and they only wore about 4/32 of tread off in that time. I chatted with someone who lives down in the TN/NC Appalachians about that same time who was looking at replacing their E load KO2s after only 42kmi because of all the mountain switchbacks they drive on a regular commute with a work truck in the summer. Accelerating and braking more aggressively or frequently, carrying more speed through turns or turning more often, carrying heavy loads, and high pavement temperatures all have negative impacts on tire wear.
 
We got 80,000 miles out of the original LRE KO's on our 2011 FJCruiser. Could have stretched it for more easily but figured I'd put new LRE KO2's on as I likely wouldn't even own it when they wore out, plus the KO's were aging out.
Not sure now as it seems the KO2's perhaps wear a little faster? I have them on 3 vehicles, as I also put them on my 1996 F350 diesel crew cab long bed. I know I'll never wear them out on that truck as I don't put but maybe 5000 a year on it nowadays.

Put the LRE KO2's on the 4R 2 days after we bought it new.
 
I currently have Toyo Open Country A/T load range E on my 4runner. These tires were on the truck when I bought it.
I'm in (very) rural AZ so I need tough tires. We also have a 100° seasonal temperature swing, 20's to 120's.
So summer I run 35psi, they warm up to 38-40psi. Winter I drop to 30psi to warm the tread on pavement and better traction when our dirt roads become muddy washes.
Offroading I drop to 20 or 15psi. Here's a rock in our yard and I'm 15psi
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We got 80,000 miles out of the original LRE KO's on our 2011 FJCruiser. Could have stretched it for more easily but figured I'd put new LRE KO2's on as I likely wouldn't even own it when they wore out, plus the KO's were aging out.
Not sure now as it seems the KO2's perhaps wear a little faster? I have them on 3 vehicles, as I also put them on my 1996 F350 diesel crew cab long bed. I know I'll never wear them out on that truck as I don't put but maybe 5000 a year on it nowadays.

Put the LRE KO2's on the 4R 2 days after we bought it new.

I got 90,000 on KO's on a Toyota P/U back in the 90's, although obviously that truck was way lighter than a 4Runner. I think they must have changed the compound. Maybe more traction and less miles now. Driving on textured concrete in the big city is probably not good on tires. But I had hoped for 50k at least but it doesn't look like that is going to happen.
 
50K would be good on my pickup or FJ- neither gets a lot of miles and they'll age out.

I'll be a little dissapointed if thats all I get on the 4R. I don't drive it much either but when I do I really do...left home first week of June with 1200 miles, returned home end of June with 8400. I'll likely do something similar in September.
 
I currently have Toyo Open Country A/T load range E on my 4runner. These tires were on the truck when I bought it.
I'm in (very) rural AZ so I need tough tires. We also have a 100° seasonal temperature swing, 20's to 120's.
So summer I run 35psi, they warm up to 38-40psi. Winter I drop to 30psi to warm the tread on pavement and better traction when our dirt roads become muddy washes.
Offroading I drop to 20 or 15psi. Here's a rock in our yard and I'm 15psi
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1234377055248e80d1f9eafe51017caf.jpg
71cc5881eb9ca4f6b6b6240e4f62e8e4.jpg


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I am between Prescott Valley and Surprise as I work in Phoenix. Considering either stock size KO2’s in C load or stock size in KM3, e load. Have an opinion? I want something tough enough for Death Valley and all our rocks here in AZ but something that won’t kill me on the Highway. Thanks
 
If you dont mind the cons on road, I really like the KM3.

I never thought of getting MTs, but I decided to try them one day after finding a good deal and now I have no desire to go back to an AT if off-road performance is a primary objective.
 
I am between Prescott Valley and Surprise as I work in Phoenix. Considering either stock size KO2’s in C load or stock size in KM3, e load. Have an opinion? I want something tough enough for Death Valley and all our rocks here in AZ but something that won’t kill me on the Highway. Thanks

I have E tires and they don't kill me on the highway.

P's are smoother, but I doubt I would notice the difference between C and E at the same PSI.

In AZ, I would have E rated. I am in socal, we have desert rocks too, and I like my E's.
 
I have E tires and they don't kill me on the highway.

P's are smoother, but I doubt I would notice the difference between C and E at the same PSI.

In AZ, I would have E rated. I am in socal, we have desert rocks too, and I like my E's.

I am in SoCal too and have Toyo Open Country AT E rated and I am happy with them!

Used to drive 42 miles each way to work and never thought to myself the ride quality sucks. I do hit very rocky trails so I like my E's too!
 

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