Looking for smelly opinions on my thrifty dual battery setup for 4th gen

theladyviola

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I think this is the first time I've asked for opinions, so I know I'm opening myself up to every Tom, Dick, and Harriet's banter, but bring it...

And yes, I've searched and read. If I wasn't good at searching, I couldn't do all the things I do at a fraction of the cost.

If you've looked at my build, you know I'm the thrifty b!tch that gets it done on the effective budget instead of the b!tch with more money than brains (although it wouldn't take much money to outweigh the brains).

I've toyed with adding a dual battery system but never committed to it until a couple days ago. I picked up a Northstar 31M battery for $60 and it's never been installed, just stored. Hold a charge fine. This deal was the deciding factor to go forth with the project. Holy crap battery trays and cages are ridiculously expensive unless you get the cheap plastic with a strap. I'm thinking about going with this one because it's about the only one I've found that seems decent, affordable at $26 and will actually fit the measurements of my battery. Any experience with this particular tray?

http://http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/10265/10002/-1

I've also picked up this Battery Doctor 150amp isolator for $40.
http://http://www.wirthco.com/20092.html

I'm thinking of adding the Blue Sea fuse block down the road for accessory lights. Right now, I don't have any accessories that necessitates immediate installation. I have a tiny teardrop camper trailer that I'd like to be able to power in situations where shore power is not available and I can't use my generator all the time (happens at a lot of National Parks). My camper is only set up for 120v so I'll probably add a Samlex 600w pure sin inverter straight to the aux battery to power my interior light and computer, phones, fan, etc. I am also thinking of converting a energy efficient mini chest freezer into a fridge to keep in my 4Runner, which will also run off the inverter. Why you ask? Because I can do this for about $150 or less which is waaaaay cheaper than getting a legit 12v fridge which I cannot afford.

I'll use some 150 amp ANL fuses on both my batteries. I plan to wire everything with 2 AWG tinned cable.

Looking for opinions on what I've already planned and experience with the components I've listed. I'd also like to know what I'm missing for now. I'm not looking for opinions to unnecessarily increase my cost. If money weren't an object, I'd drop my truck off at the local 4x4 shop and tell them to go hog wild on it.
 
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I'm going to keep my smelly opinion to myself lest you tell me it stinks.....

LOL! I grew up with my mom telling me "opinions are like a$$holes and everybody has one and they usually stink", so I limit asking for them. However, I'm all open to it in this instance!
 
Sounds good so far, figure what is going to work for you and go for it. Here is what I did on my budget minded dual battery rewire:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/199237-electrical-upgrade-rebuild-complete.html


I do believe I'm in love with the compressor install. Which one is it? Fits perfectly behind that panel! I was thinking about where I would install one down the road since I'll put the aux battery behind the airbox and I don't really feel like relocating the power steering reservoir. Your solution is perfect!
 
I do believe I'm in love with the compressor install. Which one is it? Fits perfectly behind that panel! I was thinking about where I would install one down the road since I'll put the aux battery behind the airbox and I don't really feel like relocating the power steering reservoir. Your solution is perfect!

It was actually a old portable one I got with Marlboro miles years ago. I had read other members gutting portable compressors to install and use with air bags so I thought I would give it shot. Works great for what I need it for and cheap and easy to install.
 
I think this is the first time I've asked for opinions, so I know I'm opening myself up to every Tom, Dick, and Harriet's banter, but bring it...

And yes, I've searched and read. If I wasn't good at searching, I couldn't do all the things I do at a fraction of the cost.

If you've looked at my build, you know I'm the thrifty b!tch that gets it done on the effective budget instead of the b!tch with more money than brains (although it wouldn't take much money to outweigh the brains).

I've toyed with adding a dual battery system but never committed to it until a couple days ago. I picked up a Northstar 31M battery for $60 and it's never been installed, just stored. Hold a charge fine. This deal was the deciding factor to go forth with the project. Holy crap battery trays and cages are ridiculously expensive unless you get the cheap plastic with a strap. I'm thinking about going with this one because it's about the only one I've found that seems decent, affordable at $26 and will actually fit the measurements of my battery. Any experience with this particular tray?

http://http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/10265/10002/-1

I've also picked up this Battery Doctor 150amp isolator for $40.
http://http://www.wirthco.com/20092.html

I'm thinking of adding the Blue Sea fuse block down the road for accessory lights. Right now, I don't have any accessories that necessitates immediate installation. I have a tiny teardrop camper trailer that I'd like to be able to power in situations where shore power is not available and I can't use my generator all the time (happens at a lot of National Parks). My camper is only set up for 120v so I'll probably add a Samlex 600w pure sin inverter straight to the aux battery to power my interior light and computer, phones, fan, etc. I am also thinking of converting a energy efficient mini chest freezer into a fridge to keep in my 4Runner, which will also run off the inverter. Why you ask? Because I can do this for about $150 or less which is waaaaay cheaper than getting a legit 12v fridge which I cannot afford.

I'll use some 150 amp ANL fuses on both my batteries. I plan to wire everything with 2 AWG tinned cable.

Looking for opinions on what I've already planned and experience with the components I've listed. I'd also like to know what I'm missing for now. I'm not looking for opinions to unnecessarily increase my cost. If money weren't an object, I'd drop my truck off at the local 4x4 shop and tell them to go hog wild on it.

you will be ahead of the game if you convert the trailer over to 12v. its a small trailer, I cant imagine it has much for electrical accessories. but what it does have will work better directly off 12v, than being converted to 12v from 120. it will use MUCH less power.

then, get a solar panel or 2.
 
you will be ahead of the game if you convert the trailer over to 12v. its a small trailer, I cant imagine it has much for electrical accessories. but what it does have will work better directly off 12v, than being converted to 12v from 120. it will use MUCH less power.

then, get a solar panel or 2.



I've thought about this since I got the tiny trailer and it's just not something I'm going to do. It functions fine as it is. The amount of time I'll have to power it with the truck's aux battery is negligible. Plus the Northstar is more than capable of handling the energy loss in conversion. It would make more sense if I was giving the trailer it's own battery but I'm not throwing that kind of money into it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
:fishing:
Let me ask some specific questions and see if there's a better response:

1. Has anyone installed a Northstar 31M battery into a 4th get and NOT put it in the stock location? If so, where'd you install it and what, if anything, did you have to relocate to do it? It's not easy for me to just swing the battery around in the engine compartment to willy nilly test fit.

2. 12v circuit breakers vs inline ANL fuses: I've read such conflicting info where many love the circuit breakers and others claim they trip waaaay lower than the claimed amperage, like a 200a breaker tripping at 100a. Feedback please.

3. In a perfect world, I'd immediately say I'm going to use tinned marine cable, but: those who haven't used tinned cable and just used OFC copper, have you had a major corrosion issue? Like worth spending 2-3x the money on tinned cable? I plan to use tinned terminals and, of course, battery protector/sealer and shrink wrap.

4. If you ran a dedicated line to the cargo area for your fridge, what gauge wire did you use? I want to go overkill on my wire sizes so I never have to do it again.

5. Those with aftermarket inverters, where did you install? I like things to look clean and my amp is already under the driver's seat.

I've seen a lot more pics of 5th gen setups than 4th gen, hence many of my questions. This is not my forte so please be kind and understanding. I have read the rudimentary posts to get the basics. If you need chemo administered or want to try to suddenly die in front of me so I can turn into a nurse machine, that's my forte.

As always, THANK YOU!
 
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