Looking to extend my 4Runner's life

[fjcruiserpd]

This past weekend we bought my wife an Acura TL SH-AWD. Which means I inherited her 2000 Runner. Right now it has 186k miles on it. So what I'm looking for from you folks are things I can do to extend it's life for at least another 60-70k miles.

We bought it used in 2012. About a year and half ago we had the transmission rebuilt. Last year I replaced the plugs and wires. So what else can I do to ensure she runs for a good while longer?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Honestly, there's no a whole lot you have to do, but rather optional things.

Obviously, make sure your fluids are good. Drain a little bit of coolant from your radiator in a clean or easy to see container. It should be florescent pink with no hint of rust/debris. Change your oil regularly (although the engine can take a lot of neglect and still run fine), and change your transmission fluid when it starts to appear dark/burnt. Also, change out your air filter every year or so when it looks dirty (literally takes about 60 seconds to do).

Optional things: clean off your MAF sensor carefully with MAF/Brake cleaner, will get you some better MPG's. There's some picture how to's on the web. Replace the lower ball joints for peace of mind, there are some existing issues with them failing with little to no warning. New shocks and coils will keep it riding smooth and comfortably. Grease your drive line every year or so to keep it from rattling or wearing down.

Basically the engine is going to outlast everything else in the truck if you keep it up to date with maintenance items.

 

[weekendclimber]

Transmission cooler!! Protect that rebuilt tranny!! :cheers:

 

[jgue467]

+1 on the trans cooler! Also a magnefine trans inline filter might be helpful.

Use full synthetic oils, fluids & greases while flushing brakes, radiator & power steering. Drain/fill differential(s).

Decarbonize the upper & lower engine using seafoam in oil and either seafoam or startron in fuel regularly.

Replace radiator cap & consider replacing upper/lower radiator hoses & heater hoses.

Replace PCV & fuel filter. Check that the rear axle diff breather is clear (can cause expensive problems if not).

Inspect bushings, engine/trans mounts, ball joints, CV dust boots, drive belts & replace with OEM as necessary.

If VCs leak, snug lower ones on each side up to 54 inch-pounds (not foot-pounds). Its all DIY, so have at it. Luck!

 

[Unner]

I'd recomend the transmision cooler too. Costs $60, and takes about an hour or two if you go slow, and will protect that freshly rebuilt transmission.

I'd change the plugs, wires, PCV, any worn out bushings and suspension components, diff oils, transfer case oil, transmission fluid, engine oil, flush the brake fluid, flush the cooling system, flush the power steering, clean the throttle body and MAF, and replace the air filter if it's dirty.

Other than that it's mostly maintenance as items need it like valve cover gaskets, brakes, and any other issues that may come up.

 

[fjcruiserpd]

Transmission cooler!! Protect that rebuilt tranny!! :cheers:

The cooler was added during the rebuild. :bravo:

 

[fjcruiserpd]

+1 on the trans cooler! Also a magnefine trans inline filter might be helpful.

Use full synthetic oils, fluids & greases while flushing brakes, radiator & power steering. Drain/fill differential(s).

Decarbonize the upper & lower engine using seafoam in oil and either seafoam or startron in fuel regularly.

Replace radiator cap & consider replacing upper/lower radiator hoses & heater hoses.

Replace PCV & fuel filter. Check that the rear axle diff breather is clear (can cause expensive problems if not).

Inspect bushings, engine/trans mounts, ball joints, CV dust boots, drive belts & replace with OEM as necessary.

If VCs leak, snug lower ones on each side up to 54 inch-pounds (not foot-pounds). Its all DIY, so have at it. Luck!

Thanks! A lot of abbreviations here that I don't necessarily recognize. I'll be hitting up google for translation. But thanks!

 

[fjcruiserpd]

Thanks everyone. I will keep all of these things in mind. I have a '93 that is starting to get on my nerves so I'm selling it soon. So the 2000 will be my main rig for hopefully a much longer while.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I can translate:

PCV - Positive crankcase ventilation valve. But it's always called a PCV, even in the factory manual.

MAF - Mass airflow sensor. That's the guy that sits just downstream of your air filter and measures air flow.

VC - Valve covers. The gasket in between the valve cover and the cylinder head leaks. It's pretty much a sure thing yours will leak oil eventually, not the end of the world if it does though.

CV - Constant velocity axle which has boots over it to protect it. Once again though, always called a CV boot, axle, etc.

Working on the old 3.0L 3VZ-E engines and the newer 3.4L 5VZ-FE engines is night and day. I hated working on my Pickup because of the spider web of hoses and vacuum control valves that were littered across the engine bay. Made things so tight that something as easy as changing your spark plugs was a difficult task. Just look at the two engine bays side by side!

 

[JayRolla]

Thanks everyone. I will keep all of these things in mind. I have a '93 that is starting to get on my nerves so I'm selling it soon. So the 2000 will be my main rig for hopefully a much longer while.

The 2nd gens are not fun. They have a lot of issues. Big headaches. LOL. There are folks running near 400k on these rigs with original motors and drivetrain. Just keep her fluids full and changed.

 

[amalik]

[MENTION=75316]jgue467[/MENTION], what a nice list man! Proof this forum has such awesome members.

There are a few things you guys forgot in your awesome lists.

OP,

Throw on an OBDII scanner and pull the codes (And I mean whether you have a check engine light or not).

Obviously investigate all the codes if you have any, but have a close look for any codes related to the 02 sensors. The oxygen sensors can/do go bad, and when they are bad it will hinder your gas mileage, so it's important to have that part function correctly.

Also, check out your under-carriage from time to time. These 3rd gens are pretty famous for rear pinion seal leaks, and rear axle seal leaks. Both of these problems are not very fun to have or fix, especially the latter. But if you see no leaking differential fluid anywhere in the rear near/above the Driveshaft (Pinion seal) or on the Rear brake drums (Rear axle seals), don't worry about this.

I don't know how much mileage you have put on her since 1.5 years ago when you had the transmission rebuilt; but when you drive around 60-70k'ish on your new fluid from 1.5 years ago, keep in mind you can also give her some love with a new Transmission filter (By draining the ATF first and then dropping the transmission pan -- Google 'skjos transmission flush' for more details) and optionally, you can do a full 16-quart ATF flush which is different than a simple drain and fill.

On a side note, to credit this forum and its members, every single thing I have learned about my 4Runner has been either from this forum directly or from members on this forum. My point is, don't worry if it's all a little confusing at the moment. You will pick it all up in due time.

Lastly, I can promise you this - If you spend some time and invest in your 4-Runner learning (And acting upon) all the things we are telling you about, you will be able to take it way beyond the 70k miles you are intending to at the moment. Simply said, these are some of the most reliable engines and vehicles Toyota has ever produced.