Just posting my experience with losing keys to a Toyota, in my case a 99 limited 4runner, the engine immobilizer option can be a real pain.
Long story short (full story below), if you ever lose your master key(s) and you qualify for a free ecu replacement from Toyota, call and get quotes from automotive locksmiths in your area and be very specific about needing your ECU flashed. Ask how much it would be to bring the ECU to them to get flashed (only takes about 15min to remove). You can also purchase a key to be cut from them or Toyota if that's your preference. You only need one transponder key and follow the procedure below from http://www.locksmithcharley.com/toyotapostflash.pdf It worked for me. No more issues with starting. Hopefully, this thread will save you a lot of money, time, and aggravation.
Locksmith Charley
Box 832
Tolleson AZ 85353
602-717-5397
INSTRUCTIONS FOR PROGRAMMING KEYS INTO
RE-FLASHED TOYOTA / LEXUS ECM
After we re-flash the ECM it will be in “Automatic Registration Mode” when you install it. The ECM is
expecting that when first powered up (by turning on a key) that it will encounter 3 new keys. The first two keys
are internally (inside the ECM) designated as MASTER keys and the 3rd key inserted will be internally
designated as the VALET key. The ECM can be programmed with as few as 1 key. If less than 3 keys are
programmed into the ECM the security light may flash for some time (hours to weeks) until the ECM “learns”
that it is apparently not going to get any more keys.
The programming process is fairly simple. ***MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT HAVE MORE THAN ONE
TRANSPONDER KEY NEAR THE IGNITION CYLINDER AT ANY TIME! *** (i.e. do NOT have
more than one transponder key on your key ring) ***
If you are programming 3 keys:
1. Close all doors and windows.
2. Lock the driver side door with the key.
3. Unlock the driver side door with the key.
4. Insert first transponder key into ignition lock cylinder for registration DO NOT TURN ON. The security
light should remain on. Wait about 5 seconds and remove first key from ignition.
5. Insert second transponder key into ignition lock cylinder for registration DO NOT TURN ON. The
security light should remain on. Wait about 5 seconds and remove second key from ignition.
6. Insert third transponder key into ignition lock cylinder for registration DO NOT TURN ON. The
security light should go out after a few seconds. Remove third key from ignition.
7. Wait 30 seconds for the programming cycle and programming mode to close.
If you are programming less than 3 keys:
1. Close all doors and windows.
2. Lock the driver side door with the key.
3. Unlock the driver side door with the key.
4. Insert key into ignition lock cylinder for registration DO NOT TURN ON. The security light should
remain on. Wait about 15 seconds and remove first key from ignition.
5. If you are done proceed to step 6 below. If you want to add another key proceed to step 4.
6. Press brake pedal 5 times to exit programming mode.
NOTE: If less than 3 keys are programmed into the ECM the security light may flash for some time
(hours to weeks) until the ECM “learns” that it is apparently not going to get any more keys.
After performing one of the above sequences any of the keys that you programmed into the system should
successfully start and run the car.
Copyright 2005-2011, Locksmith Charley To determine if the key(s) have been properly programmed into the ECM you may utilize the following
procedure:
1. Positively locate the “security” or “anti-theft” light. This light should blink when there is no key in the
ignition or if an unrecognized key is placed into the ignition.
2. Insert the key you have into the ignition – DO NOT TURN ON. There are 3 possible things that may
occur:
(a) Security light continues to blink = unrecognized key.
(b) Security light goes off IMMEDIATELY = MASTER key
(c) Security light remains illuminated for 1-3 seconds before going out = VALET key
3. Repeat step 2 for each key that you have programmed into the car.
If you have a condition where the security light continues to blink for any of the keys, that key has not been
properly programmed or recognized by the car’s computer.
If the security light goes out immediately (master key) or after 1-3 seconds (valet key) then the keys have been
properly programmed into the ECM and you should be able to successfully start and run the car.
If the car does not crank when the key is rotated to the “start” position then there is something else wrong in the
car. It could be that the battery terminals are not sufficiently tight to make a good connection or a problem with
the starter solenoid or the starter, or in some instances a blown fuse.
The information presented here is the information presented to Locksmith Charley by other sources, therefore, I
am unable to guarantee the accuracy of this information.
I have used this procedure before and it has worked for me personally so I believe it to be true and correct.
Thanks for your business!
Charles “Locksmith Charley” Eastwood
This information is presented to you as a public service of:
LOCKSMITH CHARLEY
P.O.Box 832
Tolleson AZ 85353
(602) 717-5397 / 1-800-313-5397
All information contained herein is believed to be accurate. Locksmith Charley is not responsible for any
damages of any kind that might arise from the use or misuse of this information. This information is used
solely at the user’s risk.
Copyright 2005-2011, Locksmith Charley
Long story
I had purchased 99 limited used with one key that also had an extra just to unlock the doors if the keys were to ever get locked inside. It would also turn the ignition but wouldn't start because it was just a $3 key that you could have cut anywhere. However, I tend to procrastinate and never had an extra master key programmed.
So I'm on a business trip and I lost my key. Now my car is stuck in a parking garage at an airport. My first thought was to swap the ECU with one from an SR5 because the ECUs are the exact same. One has the engine immobilizer and the other doesnt. I had come across this issue before doing a 3.4 swap on my 88 4runner way back before I had my 3rd gen. I had picked up an ecu from a 99 limited and the swap wouldn't start. Learned about the engine immobilizer, order a SR5 for my swap and it fired right up. This unfortunately didnt workout for me. I have a a suspicion on why and how I can get it to work with an sr5 ecu, but it will require more testing in warmer weather cause I don't feel like working out in the cold right now. Basically comes down to one wire. Or, the ecu also has an engine immobilizer option as well which is very possible too.
After doing more searching, a second option is to bring the truck to the Toyota dealer. My truck qualifies for a free ecu replacement. However, you are required to by 2-3 keys and based on the dealer, pay for labor. Going labor rates a the Chicago area dealers, is that it take them 3 hours to replace the ECU. For some mechanics, I believe this. Plus you have to bring your vehicle to them. I almost took this option but surprisingly a friendly tow truck company informed me of another option due to the fact that they would not be able to get my truck out of the parking garage because of the low ceilings.
Third option. Automotive locksmith. The immobilizer on my 99 can be reflashed to accept new keys (with a transponder chip obviously) regardless of what Toyota says. I received quotes from $220-465 to reprogram at my vehicle. Two vendors offered to it for less if I had my own keys and brought the ECU to them. But they did make the procedure for the ECU to accept the new keys to be much more complicated than what it really was and that if it wast performed exactly right, the ecu would have to be reflashed again (which from what I now know, doesnt appear to be an issue). One person wanted $75( which I could not get a hold of again after speaking to him the first time) and another wanted $150. I was a little uncertain of this, so I called one more place that gave me a quote of worse case $180 to get my truck started, so I went that route. Plus they had their rates posted on website.
Surprisingly the process is fairly simple but they make it appear to be much more complicated that what it really is. If you don't have any understanding of electronics, this would appear to be very very complex.
Basically, you remove the ecu, they take the ECU board out of the metal case. There is a tiny 6 pin chip on the board that they place a large stick over ( about the size of a C cell mag-lite). This resets the immobilizer. Put the ecu back in and program it for the new keys. Unfortunately, the guy who did this for me tried jerking me around. After pulling up to my car, the quote changed from $180 to $400 in less than 3 seconds of seeing it. Go figure. He claimed he didn't know what type of car it was before the quote even though he was informed the make, model, and trim. Now that they guy was 3 hours late, its 5 pm on a Saturday, I don't have many other reasonable options, I said fine know that I would be disputing the charge. Thanks to the unprofessionalism of the locksmith (3 hours late from the eta provided), he will only be getting a 3rd of that cost. His reasoning for the drastic change in price was that, he would have to cut 3 transponder keys(only cut 1 key and refused to cut the key I had), having to look up the key code from the VIN (wasn't necessary because I had a spare key), plus 1.5 hours labor for removing and replacing the ecu (which I did). This guy was done in less than 30 and I have the parking receipt to prove that along with documenting everything else. Before he left he also mentioned that the computer would also continue to blink until the next oil change. I was ok with that at the time because it was just more for me to validate the charge dispute.
Car starts and all APPEARS to be well. Yesterday, go out to my car, it doesnt start!!. Not happy but glad its atleast in my driveway. After about 5 minutes of the key in and out the ignition, it turns over. Security light appears to be flashing a code of 1 1 or 22 22. After searching, I come across a website that documents how to reprogram new keys for a reflashed ECU. Apparently my ECM was still in "automatic registration mode".
http://www.locksmithcharley.com/toyotapostflash.pdf
I go out an pick up one more transponder key just incase I ever need extras. Follow the step in the pdf. Security light now functions as it should. Unfortunately, I wish I had come across this pdf in the beginning. When the locksmith, was doing this, I think he made it seem more confusing to me and confused himself since it didnt work the first time for him. He tried locking and unlocking the doors a bunch of time along with inserting the key and removing it out 7 times and turning it in the ignition. The second time it seem like he did less steps and it worked. Or it could have been that it was because he only used 1 key and didnt take it out of automatic registration mode when he was done. Hope this helps.
Long story short (full story below), if you ever lose your master key(s) and you qualify for a free ecu replacement from Toyota, call and get quotes from automotive locksmiths in your area and be very specific about needing your ECU flashed. Ask how much it would be to bring the ECU to them to get flashed (only takes about 15min to remove). You can also purchase a key to be cut from them or Toyota if that's your preference. You only need one transponder key and follow the procedure below from http://www.locksmithcharley.com/toyotapostflash.pdf It worked for me. No more issues with starting. Hopefully, this thread will save you a lot of money, time, and aggravation.
Locksmith Charley
Box 832
Tolleson AZ 85353
602-717-5397
INSTRUCTIONS FOR PROGRAMMING KEYS INTO
RE-FLASHED TOYOTA / LEXUS ECM
After we re-flash the ECM it will be in “Automatic Registration Mode” when you install it. The ECM is
expecting that when first powered up (by turning on a key) that it will encounter 3 new keys. The first two keys
are internally (inside the ECM) designated as MASTER keys and the 3rd key inserted will be internally
designated as the VALET key. The ECM can be programmed with as few as 1 key. If less than 3 keys are
programmed into the ECM the security light may flash for some time (hours to weeks) until the ECM “learns”
that it is apparently not going to get any more keys.
The programming process is fairly simple. ***MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT HAVE MORE THAN ONE
TRANSPONDER KEY NEAR THE IGNITION CYLINDER AT ANY TIME! *** (i.e. do NOT have
more than one transponder key on your key ring) ***
If you are programming 3 keys:
1. Close all doors and windows.
2. Lock the driver side door with the key.
3. Unlock the driver side door with the key.
4. Insert first transponder key into ignition lock cylinder for registration DO NOT TURN ON. The security
light should remain on. Wait about 5 seconds and remove first key from ignition.
5. Insert second transponder key into ignition lock cylinder for registration DO NOT TURN ON. The
security light should remain on. Wait about 5 seconds and remove second key from ignition.
6. Insert third transponder key into ignition lock cylinder for registration DO NOT TURN ON. The
security light should go out after a few seconds. Remove third key from ignition.
7. Wait 30 seconds for the programming cycle and programming mode to close.
If you are programming less than 3 keys:
1. Close all doors and windows.
2. Lock the driver side door with the key.
3. Unlock the driver side door with the key.
4. Insert key into ignition lock cylinder for registration DO NOT TURN ON. The security light should
remain on. Wait about 15 seconds and remove first key from ignition.
5. If you are done proceed to step 6 below. If you want to add another key proceed to step 4.
6. Press brake pedal 5 times to exit programming mode.
NOTE: If less than 3 keys are programmed into the ECM the security light may flash for some time
(hours to weeks) until the ECM “learns” that it is apparently not going to get any more keys.
After performing one of the above sequences any of the keys that you programmed into the system should
successfully start and run the car.
Copyright 2005-2011, Locksmith Charley To determine if the key(s) have been properly programmed into the ECM you may utilize the following
procedure:
1. Positively locate the “security” or “anti-theft” light. This light should blink when there is no key in the
ignition or if an unrecognized key is placed into the ignition.
2. Insert the key you have into the ignition – DO NOT TURN ON. There are 3 possible things that may
occur:
(a) Security light continues to blink = unrecognized key.
(b) Security light goes off IMMEDIATELY = MASTER key
(c) Security light remains illuminated for 1-3 seconds before going out = VALET key
3. Repeat step 2 for each key that you have programmed into the car.
If you have a condition where the security light continues to blink for any of the keys, that key has not been
properly programmed or recognized by the car’s computer.
If the security light goes out immediately (master key) or after 1-3 seconds (valet key) then the keys have been
properly programmed into the ECM and you should be able to successfully start and run the car.
If the car does not crank when the key is rotated to the “start” position then there is something else wrong in the
car. It could be that the battery terminals are not sufficiently tight to make a good connection or a problem with
the starter solenoid or the starter, or in some instances a blown fuse.
The information presented here is the information presented to Locksmith Charley by other sources, therefore, I
am unable to guarantee the accuracy of this information.
I have used this procedure before and it has worked for me personally so I believe it to be true and correct.
Thanks for your business!
Charles “Locksmith Charley” Eastwood
This information is presented to you as a public service of:
LOCKSMITH CHARLEY
P.O.Box 832
Tolleson AZ 85353
(602) 717-5397 / 1-800-313-5397
All information contained herein is believed to be accurate. Locksmith Charley is not responsible for any
damages of any kind that might arise from the use or misuse of this information. This information is used
solely at the user’s risk.
Copyright 2005-2011, Locksmith Charley
Long story
I had purchased 99 limited used with one key that also had an extra just to unlock the doors if the keys were to ever get locked inside. It would also turn the ignition but wouldn't start because it was just a $3 key that you could have cut anywhere. However, I tend to procrastinate and never had an extra master key programmed.
So I'm on a business trip and I lost my key. Now my car is stuck in a parking garage at an airport. My first thought was to swap the ECU with one from an SR5 because the ECUs are the exact same. One has the engine immobilizer and the other doesnt. I had come across this issue before doing a 3.4 swap on my 88 4runner way back before I had my 3rd gen. I had picked up an ecu from a 99 limited and the swap wouldn't start. Learned about the engine immobilizer, order a SR5 for my swap and it fired right up. This unfortunately didnt workout for me. I have a a suspicion on why and how I can get it to work with an sr5 ecu, but it will require more testing in warmer weather cause I don't feel like working out in the cold right now. Basically comes down to one wire. Or, the ecu also has an engine immobilizer option as well which is very possible too.
After doing more searching, a second option is to bring the truck to the Toyota dealer. My truck qualifies for a free ecu replacement. However, you are required to by 2-3 keys and based on the dealer, pay for labor. Going labor rates a the Chicago area dealers, is that it take them 3 hours to replace the ECU. For some mechanics, I believe this. Plus you have to bring your vehicle to them. I almost took this option but surprisingly a friendly tow truck company informed me of another option due to the fact that they would not be able to get my truck out of the parking garage because of the low ceilings.
Third option. Automotive locksmith. The immobilizer on my 99 can be reflashed to accept new keys (with a transponder chip obviously) regardless of what Toyota says. I received quotes from $220-465 to reprogram at my vehicle. Two vendors offered to it for less if I had my own keys and brought the ECU to them. But they did make the procedure for the ECU to accept the new keys to be much more complicated than what it really was and that if it wast performed exactly right, the ecu would have to be reflashed again (which from what I now know, doesnt appear to be an issue). One person wanted $75( which I could not get a hold of again after speaking to him the first time) and another wanted $150. I was a little uncertain of this, so I called one more place that gave me a quote of worse case $180 to get my truck started, so I went that route. Plus they had their rates posted on website.
Surprisingly the process is fairly simple but they make it appear to be much more complicated that what it really is. If you don't have any understanding of electronics, this would appear to be very very complex.
Basically, you remove the ecu, they take the ECU board out of the metal case. There is a tiny 6 pin chip on the board that they place a large stick over ( about the size of a C cell mag-lite). This resets the immobilizer. Put the ecu back in and program it for the new keys. Unfortunately, the guy who did this for me tried jerking me around. After pulling up to my car, the quote changed from $180 to $400 in less than 3 seconds of seeing it. Go figure. He claimed he didn't know what type of car it was before the quote even though he was informed the make, model, and trim. Now that they guy was 3 hours late, its 5 pm on a Saturday, I don't have many other reasonable options, I said fine know that I would be disputing the charge. Thanks to the unprofessionalism of the locksmith (3 hours late from the eta provided), he will only be getting a 3rd of that cost. His reasoning for the drastic change in price was that, he would have to cut 3 transponder keys(only cut 1 key and refused to cut the key I had), having to look up the key code from the VIN (wasn't necessary because I had a spare key), plus 1.5 hours labor for removing and replacing the ecu (which I did). This guy was done in less than 30 and I have the parking receipt to prove that along with documenting everything else. Before he left he also mentioned that the computer would also continue to blink until the next oil change. I was ok with that at the time because it was just more for me to validate the charge dispute.
Car starts and all APPEARS to be well. Yesterday, go out to my car, it doesnt start!!. Not happy but glad its atleast in my driveway. After about 5 minutes of the key in and out the ignition, it turns over. Security light appears to be flashing a code of 1 1 or 22 22. After searching, I come across a website that documents how to reprogram new keys for a reflashed ECU. Apparently my ECM was still in "automatic registration mode".
http://www.locksmithcharley.com/toyotapostflash.pdf
I go out an pick up one more transponder key just incase I ever need extras. Follow the step in the pdf. Security light now functions as it should. Unfortunately, I wish I had come across this pdf in the beginning. When the locksmith, was doing this, I think he made it seem more confusing to me and confused himself since it didnt work the first time for him. He tried locking and unlocking the doors a bunch of time along with inserting the key and removing it out 7 times and turning it in the ignition. The second time it seem like he did less steps and it worked. Or it could have been that it was because he only used 1 key and didnt take it out of automatic registration mode when he was done. Hope this helps.
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