Lots of Rubbing....WTH?

dereky

New member
So I have my tires and wheels installed.

Procomp 17x9 with -6 offset
Goodyear Duratrac 285/70R17

My truck is 07 Limited with 3" Toytec height adjustable coilovers in front which seem to have given me 4" in the front. They seem stiff and seem to "top out" when going over a speed bump or quickly dropping into a large pothole. In the rear I have the toytec superflex coils with bilsteins.

In the pictures you can see its a tight fit. On the front I have to push the wheel well liner ahead still.

I've been out and flexed it a bit. The front tires rub the front liner but not bumper. The front tires also rub the rear of the wheel wells and the body mounts at certain points of flexing the suspension.

On the back when flexed the tire totally contacts the rear mudflaps. I took them off now but it looks crappy with the big opening and now all the mud and dirt will accumulate in there. Is it normal to have to remove the rear mud flaps with this setup?

Anyone else running the hieght adjustable bilstein front co's finding they top out?

Any suggestions? Is anyone running the 285/70R17 Duratrac on a 17x9 wheel? Someone must be.


Thanks for the help guys.
 

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I have 285's on mine with the DuraTracs. I come across the rubbing on potholes too, if I hit them hard enough. But I never have a problem with the back, and I kept my mud flaps on. I run the stock 17's, not sure what the offset is....
 
First off.....those Toytec's are only suppose to be ran up to 3" for that very reason, they aren't long enough to accommodate that much lift. Plus, it's not suggested to run that much lift due to the CV angle and increased stress on the front end components, not to mention shorten the lifespan of the shocks because they are being pushed past their limit.

Once you go over 3", it's very hard to get the caster into spec, and that could be one of the reasons you are rubbing the body mount and rear portion of the front fender well. My guess is your caster is very low and out of spec. After 3" I would recommend aftermarket upper control arms to help get the numbers back into spec.

My setup is 4" of lift (3.5" suspension and 1/2" body lift) so similar to yours. I haven't had any issues with the body mount, but I had to move the fender liner forward a lot to get rid of the rubbing there. Also had to ditch the front mud flaps and do some trimming in the rear part of the front fender well. On the rear, I have the same issue as you. You can drop your rear bump stops to limit up travel, but that or removing the rear mud flap is about your only option. Mine rubbed with a 2" bump stop drop, I'm running a 3" drop now but haven't had a chance to flex it out.

You may want to look into a body lift. You could do up to a 1.5" body lift and that would help give you the clearance you need. They are relatively cheap and probably going to give you the best results.
 
A body lift and also what I did was to remove the rear mud flaps and trim them to where they are flush with the rear pumper. This way rubbing will be reduced and you ill still have some cover from the remainder of the mud flap.
 
If you take the mud flap off and drive fast on a lot of gravel roads any unprotected painted area will look like it was sandblasted especially will aggressive tires. Ask me how I know. :)
 
I've had all these issues.

My front fender liners are essentially gone, I've trimmed them to about 1' long now.

I have trimmed my front bumper and took my front flaps off.

I cut my rear flaps flush with the bumper

I installed 1.5" bump stop drop spacers for the rear axle

I just added a 1.25" body lift.

I still have rubbing!!!!! :ybrick: :ybrick:

I guess it's just something we have to live with haha
 
I thought that I was pretty set on stepping up to 285/70R17's, but this is the reason why I'll stick with 265/70R17's! Sure it looks cool, but the extra 1.1" of tire height (just 0.55" of additional ground clearance) wasn't enough to warrant all of the extra cutting and rubbing. Maybe someday, but for now I'll run my "little" tires! ;):
 
I thought that I was pretty set on stepping up to 285/70R17's, but this is the reason why I'll stick with 265/70R17's! Sure it looks cool, but the extra 1.1" of tire height (just 0.55" of additional ground clearance) wasn't enough to warrant all of the extra cutting and rubbing. Maybe someday, but for now I'll run my "little" tires! ;):

Get 32's :)
 
Part of the problem may be the stock bumpstops. I believe some kits include taller bumpstops to help prevent the rubbing.

But for the most part, if you're fitting 285/70R17's in stock wheel wells (i.e. fenderliner still there, no aftermarket front or rear bumpers, no body mount chop, ect ect.) you're gonna rub no matter what.
 
Can you post some pictures of the suspension on the front end?

Looks really nice. Sounds like your best bet will be going down a tire size to prevent the rubbing. If I were you I'd try the body lift first, that will give you a little more clearance. If you are then still having rubbing issues you could go to that 265/70/17.
 
To me the easiest solution is to just put on a slightly smaller tire.

Exactly.

That's why I picked the 255/75/17 tire. Does not look small at all and I have aggressive BFG MT tires on there with very minimal mpg loss (less than 1mpg). No rubbing what so ever, and I can get through all the trails that the guys running 285's can. win/win for me. :)
 
The problem with 255/75s is that the stock Jeep Wrangler Goodyear SR-A's run wide for their size so it's deceiving but most 255s only have 7.5 to 7.75" of tread width. So if you run them on a 8.5 or 9.0" wheel they look retarded and don't wear properly.

There needs to be more options in the 285/65-17 size. That would be perfect for us..but I can only find one AT tire in that size and no MTs.
 
Yeah I don't think the OP will be able to use his 9" wide rims with the 255's. Might even be hard to mount the 265's on a 9" wide rim... Stock is what 7.5"?
 
additional pictures and questions

Thanks for all the input guys, I also wanted to add that I do have the light racing uca's.

What are your opinions of mounting the 265/70R17 Duratrac on the 9" wide wheel? Surely this should be offroadable and be able to stuff it in the wheel wells if i push the fender lining ahead??? I can't see this setup being much different than what guys are running along with the 1.25" spidertrax?

Any other people have negative comments related to the ride (top out or too much pre-load) of the hieght adjustable bilsteins??
 

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First off.....those Toytec's are only suppose to be ran up to 3" for that very reason, they aren't long enough to accommodate that much lift. Plus, it's not suggested to run that much lift due to the CV angle and increased stress on the front end components, not to mention shorten the lifespan of the shocks because they are being pushed past their limit.

Once you go over 3", it's very hard to get the caster into spec, and that could be one of the reasons you are rubbing the body mount and rear portion of the front fender well. My guess is your caster is very low and out of spec. After 3" I would recommend aftermarket upper control arms to help get the numbers back into spec.

My setup is 4" of lift (3.5" suspension and 1/2" body lift) so similar to yours. I haven't had any issues with the body mount, but I had to move the fender liner forward a lot to get rid of the rubbing there. Also had to ditch the front mud flaps and do some trimming in the rear part of the front fender well. On the rear, I have the same issue as you. You can drop your rear bump stops to limit up travel, but that or removing the rear mud flap is about your only option. Mine rubbed with a 2" bump stop drop, I'm running a 3" drop now but haven't had a chance to flex it out.

You may want to look into a body lift. You could do up to a 1.5" body lift and that would help give you the clearance you need. They are relatively cheap and probably going to give you the best results.

Thanks for you feed back, much appreciated.
Another thing i forgot to mention was that i had the XREAS system. And when I measured the front I had already completed the rear which means I may have released the oil pressure out of the front shocks already by removing the rear??? Meaning maybe my measurement on the front before install was with my front shocks depresurized?? I don't know a lot about the stock XREAS system.

Regardless my front hub to wheel well measuement is 23.75" without a body lift. This bilstein hieght adjustable setup is the same for the V8 and the V6. I only have the V6, so less weight? Toytec specifically says not to use these coilovers on the regular cab Tacoma, maybe because it doesn't have the weight for the springs, so I am thinking maybe this bilstein and eibach spring combo is a little on the heavy side for our trucks with not steel bumper up front??
 

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