Low Lift Suspension?

[xnodesirex]

(searched first, but found nothing. sorry if I missed something).

After hauling a few moderate loads, my 2012 TE suspension feels pretty damn shot. It's to the point where it's getting hard to control, as bumps become boat like.

I put some unused shocks on the back in haste (monroe), and they made it driveable, but the front still jumps when hitting bumps and the back ain't too hot either.

Time to bite the bullet on a new lift. Going to do the 5100s on all four corners, but don't know what direction to head with springs. Ride is already high enough for me, and this is soon to become the wife's kid hauler.

OEM springs are $110/ea, so aftermarket are certainly appealing. Are there any good ones that don't add 2.5-3" of additional lift? Would prefer to keep it at stock height, but basically I just don't want to have to drop the diff or do any driveline realignment.

 

[Bumbo]

(searched first, but found nothing. sorry if I missed something).

After hauling a few moderate loads, my 2012 TE suspension feels pretty damn shot. It's to the point where it's getting hard to control, as bumps become boat like.

I put some unused shocks on the back in haste (monroe), and they made it driveable, but the front still jumps when hitting bumps and the back ain't too hot either.

Time to bite the bullet on a new lift. Going to do the 5100s on all four corners, but don't know what direction to head with springs. Ride is already high enough for me, and this is soon to become the wife's kid hauler.

OEM springs are $110/ea, so aftermarket are certainly appealing. Are there any good ones that don't add 2.5-3" of additional lift? Would prefer to keep it at stock height, but basically I just don't want to have to drop the diff or do any driveline realignment.

You can pretty much pick any 1-2" lift coil and be good without a diff drop or anything extreme... just keep an eye on spring rate as you might want to aim for stock to a little stiffer depending on preference.

There is a pretty boss option if you can spend a little more... Personally I would consider something like a 6112 up front as it comes with a very well matched coil spring and its adjustable right height... from no lift / stock to 2-3". On top of that, the shock itself is a basic but very nice 2.5" performance shock and keep your original plan for the rears... Its well worth the price over a 5100... even for an on-road truck... the ride over bumps and pot-holes and in parking lots with speed bumps is just fantastic.

 

[1engineer]

(searched first, but found nothing. sorry if I missed something).

After hauling a few moderate loads, my 2012 TE suspension feels pretty damn shot. It's to the point where it's getting hard to control, as bumps become boat like.

I put some unused shocks on the back in haste (monroe), and they made it driveable, but the front still jumps when hitting bumps and the back ain't too hot either.

Time to bite the bullet on a new lift. Going to do the 5100s on all four corners, but don't know what direction to head with springs. Ride is already high enough for me, and this is soon to become the wife's kid hauler.

OEM springs are $110/ea, so aftermarket are certainly appealing. Are there any good ones that don't add 2.5-3" of additional lift? Would prefer to keep it at stock height, but basically I just don't want to have to drop the diff or do any driveline realignment.

Read this http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/147258-no-low-lift-icon-suspension.html do this.

 

[xnodesirex]

Read this http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/147258-no-low-lift-icon-suspension.html do this.

read it before I posted, and it was all about custom priced coils which are quite costly.

 

[xnodesirex]

You can pretty much pick any 1-2" lift coil and be good without a diff drop or anything extreme... just keep an eye on spring rate as you might want to aim for stock to a little stiffer depending on preference.

There is a pretty boss option if you can spend a little more... Personally I would consider something like a 6112 up front as it comes with a very well matched coil spring and its adjustable right height... from no lift / stock to 2-3". On top of that, the shock itself is a basic but very nice 2.5" performance shock and keep your original plan for the rears... Its well worth the price over a 5100... even for an on-road truck... the ride over bumps and pot-holes and in parking lots with speed bumps is just fantastic.

Thanks!

Trying to keep below the $1k mark, and 6112s and new rear springs would put me well above.

I keep reading more and more and more about this.
Currently I'm thinking of 5110s all around still.
OME on the front (2884)
Wheelers T12 (formerly SAW) on the rear.

Wheelers site says the T12 should be ~2.5" in the rear, and the 2884s would be 2.5" in the front at the lowest 5110 setting, which should mostly level the girl out. Or am I crazy?

 

[BlacknTan]

I know you're trying to keep costs down, but I've been very happy with the 6112's in front.

 

[Antman]

Just buy some $100 airbags for the rear coils. They will support the weight and the 5100's will control the ride motions much better than the stock shocks.

You will remain at stock height with this setup and always level no matter the load (within reason).

 

[KENAIKING]

When I spoke to Wheelers the other day they said they are currently working on a true 1.5" rear spring. No timeline though on when it would be available.

 

[Jhalko]

I put some unused shocks on the back in haste (monroe), and they made it driveable, but the front still jumps when hitting bumps and the back ain't too hot either.

OEM springs are $110/ea, so aftermarket are certainly appealing. Are there any good ones that don't add 2.5-3" of additional lift? Would prefer to keep it at stock height, but basically I just don't want to have to drop the diff or do any driveline realignment.

read it before I posted, and it was all about custom priced coils which are quite costly.

Were you happy with the stock ride at purchase? Are you carrying constant extra weight causing issues?

You seem to want low cost, low lift, and different coil springs, given those parameters you may have to pick two of the three.

 

[jwkilgore]

After hauling a few moderate loads, my 2012 TE suspension feels pretty damn shot. It's to the point where it's getting hard to control, as bumps become boat like.
...
Time to bite the bullet on a new lift. Going to do the 5100s on all four corners, but don't know what direction to head with springs. Ride is already high enough for me, and this is soon to become the wife's kid hauler.

OEM springs are $110/ea, so aftermarket are certainly appealing. Are there any good ones that don't add 2.5-3" of additional lift? Would prefer to keep it at stock height, but basically I just don't want to have to drop the diff or do any driveline realignment.

Why do you want a lift at all? Is this for looks only? You'll raise center of gravity, which lowers gas mileage and make it less safe for the wife and kids.

Also, why do you need springs? Are you sagging under everyday loads, or are you just wanting more capacity for your "moderate loads"?

From what you said, I recommend:
- Bilstein 5100's all around. Set fronts to lowest ring, or maybe one up to be slightly more level. Rears don't affect ride height.
- Assuming you aren't sagging under everyday conditions, keep your existing OEM springs.
- If rear springs are sagging because they are shot (I'd be surprised if they are in a 6-yr-old vehicle) then replace with new OEM springs and get a pair of airbags for the times you add extra load.
- If rear springs are sagging because you've added significant permanent load then replace with stiffer aftermarket springs. The "lift" is under factory loads, so if you've added several hundred pounds you won't get as much of a lift.

I you do want a low looks-only lift, then set the fronts slightly higher and get a short spacer for the rear.

 

[xnodesirex]

Were you happy with the stock ride at purchase? Are you carrying constant extra weight causing issues?

You seem to want low cost, low lift, and different coil springs, given those parameters you may have to pick two of the three.

Stock height is okay. Don't do enough offroading to warrant significant extra height, and with the wife wanting it as a baby carrier I'd rather not make it more challenging for her to get them in/out.

Don't carry heavy loads often, but the two times that I did totally trashed the back springs. They feel like noodles now when hitting bumps.

 

[xnodesirex]

Why do you want a lift at all? Is this for looks only? You'll raise center of gravity, which lowers gas mileage and make it less safe for the wife and kids.

Also, why do you need springs? Are you sagging under everyday loads, or are you just wanting more capacity for your "moderate loads"?

From what you said, I recommend:
- Bilstein 5100's all around. Set fronts to lowest ring, or maybe one up to be slightly more level. Rears don't affect ride height.
- Assuming you aren't sagging under everyday conditions, keep your existing OEM springs.
- If rear springs are sagging because they are shot (I'd be surprised if they are in a 6-yr-old vehicle) then replace with new OEM springs and get a pair of airbags for the times you add extra load.
- If rear springs are sagging because you've added significant permanent load then replace with stiffer aftermarket springs. The "lift" is under factory loads, so if you've added several hundred pounds you won't get as much of a lift.

I you do want a low looks-only lift, then set the fronts slightly higher and get a short spacer for the rear.

Rears feel like they are absolutely toast. It handles movement like a waterbed right now. Replacing the rear shocks helped, but it is not easy to drive right now.

 

[nb rob]

if you've never replaced your rear shocks - they're likely due.

and spent / blown rear shocks would really make the ride feel like hell over bumps. They are much more likely to be worn than coils. Especially on a 4/5 year old vehicle.

 

[Jhalko]

Stock height is okay. Don't do enough offroading to warrant significant extra height, and with the wife wanting it as a baby carrier I'd rather not make it more challenging for her to get them in/out.

Don't carry heavy loads often, but the two times that I did totally trashed the back springs. They feel like noodles now when hitting bumps.

Rears feel like they are absolutely toast. It handles movement like a waterbed right now. Replacing the rear shocks helped, but it is not easy to drive right now.

It sounds like you over loaded it, not "a few moderate loads", just get another set of stock springs and add air bags as Antman mentioned. Then on the occasion you carry a heavier load you can just air them up. I'm sure someone on here will GIVE you a set if you pay shipping. You mention "unused" Monroe shocks, does that mean brand new, or purchased off someone? Is there a warranty to go back to the shop and have them diagnose your issue? Did you mismatch stock front to Monroe rears? That could impact handling as well.

 

[xnodesirex]

It sounds like you over loaded it, not "a few moderate loads", just get another set of stock springs and add air bags as Antman mentioned. Then on the occasion you carry a heavier load you can just air them up. I'm sure someone on here will GIVE you a set if you pay shipping. You mention "unused" Monroe shocks, does that mean brand new, or purchased off someone? Is there a warranty to go back to the shop and have them diagnose your issue? Did you mismatch stock front to Monroe rears? That could impact handling as well.

May very well have overloaded them.

They were new OEM shocks by Monroe. There is a mismatch versus the stock fronts right now, which is why I want to get this purchased and installed ASAP.

 

[xnodesirex]

if you've never replaced your rear shocks - they're likely due.

and spent / blown rear shocks would really make the ride feel like hell over bumps. They are much more likely to be worn than coils. Especially on a 4/5 year old vehicle.

Replaced with some OEM Monroes in the short term for the rear. It helped, but still takes bumps very poorly.

As another pointed out, odds are that I overloaded the rear springs.

 

[xnodesirex]

Anyone have any input on OME 883 vs 884s?

Thinking of pairing with Wheelers T12 (aka SAWs). Supposedly 2.5" of lift in the rear, and the 883s would be 2" on the front.

Seems some folks are reporting some slightly different numbers in different threads, especially for the T12s (1.5-2").

 

[Simpleman74]

Anyone have any input on OME 883 vs 884s?

Thinking of pairing with Wheelers T12 (aka SAWs). Supposedly 2.5" of lift in the rear, and the 883s would be 2" on the front.

Seems some folks are reporting some slightly different numbers in different threads, especially for the T12s (1.5-2").

I have a pair of NE Win box ORIGINAL SAW 1.5" coils for sale

 

[1engineer]

read it before I posted, and it was all about custom priced coils which are quite costly.

You said nothing about money in your OP.

 

[Bumbo]

Thanks!

Trying to keep below the $1k mark, and 6112s and new rear springs would put me well above.

I keep reading more and more and more about this.
Currently I'm thinking of 5110s all around still.
OME on the front (2884)
Wheelers T12 (formerly SAW) on the rear.

Wheelers site says the T12 should be ~2.5" in the rear, and the 2884s would be 2.5" in the front at the lowest 5110 setting, which should mostly level the girl out. Or am I crazy?

Just checked my invoice (Wheelers OffRoad)... $1220 with a set of Superbumps and their shop labor for the front strut assembly...

So parts only... about $1000 shipped.
6112 with springs
Rear 5100s
Rear OME 2895

You are within your budget for parts if you shop it correctly... and be on your way to something really nice.

That said... you could always just start with rear 5100 shocks and see if it solves the problem then go from there. Rear shocks are also a very simple DIY project so you can do it yourself and not be out on labor too.