I'm wondering are you guys don't trust Toyota manual, or just don't read it. It clearly says where to find Toyota numbers and how calculate min weight tire has to support. It's under 4.3 Do-it-yourself maintenance section (page 516).
"Extending the line for LT down past where it ends (because load tables stop there) in this chart might seem to imply that making a pressure adjustment when switching to LT isn't important since it appears there would still be load reserve at 32psi even if no additional pressure was added, but that doesn't mean there's no benefit to adding more pressure (leaving it at 32 would be the equivalent of around 20psi in the stock tire). For one thing, the curve bends more as it goes down the chart towards zero psi, so calculating it as a straight line overestimates load capacity. Secondly, having plenty of load reserve is desirable since tires change over time -- and they don't get stronger.Lower pressures result in more heat which speeds the process. The cumulative effects of dynamic loading, speed, heat, age, hard use -- not to mention the inevitably lower speed rating in an LT -- are all good reasons the load reserve established by the factory tire at recommended pressure should be given due consideration. If nothing else, the level where the tpms triggers should be a good clue to that. Most of this is covered in the doc already linked. There is also the option to Ask a tire engineer. The horizontal lines on the P-metric tires represent the ability to add pressure for special conditions (like high speed) but the extra psi assigns no additional load capacity. The language in load tables indicates that extra pressure for LTs at high speed is recommended, as well, and at lower speed thresholds than P-metric. The capability of a tire in both load and speed necessarily overlap each other." ![]()
Quoted from:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engin...s/110299-lt-tires-need-more-air-pressure.html [MENTION=2798]JB.[/MENTION]
I'm not trying to pick on you or anything, but rather point out with the highlighted areas where your logic is somewhat flawed. While many LT tires have very stiff sidewalls, that does not mean that sidewall flex/bulging is an indication of proper loading.
I would suspect that the curve flattens out even more as pressures drop closer to zero (I'd actually like to see a chart of this myself, if some one has one), the reason being that after a certain point the tire can no longer effectively support the load and begins to degrade faster.
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]. Came across this again when trying to figure out what had changed with the @/mention function. Not sure why I never responded. Probably for the same reason I'm having a hard time now. I don't get where the disagreement is but believe me, I'm perfectly happy leaving it that way. Figure it's just a language thing.
In any event, per your suspicion below, you might like to take a look at this if you haven't already.
I'm having a hard time mathing today. My e rated grabbers are max load capable of 3195lbs at 65psi. I've been running 40psi with good luck lately, but it's a total shot in the dark.
I'm having a hard time mathing today. My e rated grabbers are max load capable of 3195lbs at 65psi. I've been running 40psi with good luck lately, but it's a total shot in the dark.
I don't know if this math is right or even applicable.
So 3195 max at 65lbs.
Assume each tire carries a max of 1750lbs at any given time, 3195/1750 = .5477. 65x.5477 = 35.6PSI
So I should be running 35.5psi thereabouts?
I'm having a hard time mathing today. My e rated grabbers are max load capable of 3195lbs at 65psi. I've been running 40psi with good luck lately, but it's a total shot in the dark.
I don't know if this math is right or even applicable.
So 3195 max at 65lbs.
Assume each tire carries a max of 1750lbs at any given time, 3195/1750 = .5477. 65x.5477 = 35.6PSI
So I should be running 35.5psi thereabouts?
I think that quoted text was in response to another member's counterpoint. I was just quoting you and giving you a mention because you originally posted it and I wanted to give you credit.![]()
Maybe i'm old school, but i drive on a dirt road for a bit, then i get out on the pavement and drive for a couple miles. I then pull over and check the tread to see the wear pattern, then air up or down accordingly.:flamethrwoer2:
No idea how you guys run E rated LT's at 45-50 PSI. You must be driving around with about 2 inches of tread width making not making contact with the asphalt, and it must feel like your riding on rocks. I run my C rated BFG2's (stock size) at 35 PSI and that seems about perfect in terms of ride quality and even tread wear. If I run up to 40 PSI+ I start to notice that the edge of the tread shows no contact with the asphalt. I don't care what equations your using that tell you to ride with 46 PSI....if you have the outer 1 inch of tread on either side of the tire not making contact with the asphalt, something is wrong and your equation is definitely not accounting for something. I've had my share of C,D,E tires on Jeeps etc....I've never run any of them near the PSI's mentioned. No issues, and they last the advertised 40-60k depending on the brand.
I'm convinced that 80% of the people here with LT's are running with over inflated tires thinking they have a 2500 pickup. Absolutely no way you guys running at 46PSI are getting full tread contact and your rigs have to be squirly as hell.
No idea how you guys run E rated LT's at 45-50 PSI. You must be driving around with about 2 inches of tread width making not making contact with the asphalt, and it must feel like your riding on rocks. I run my C rated BFG2's (stock size) at 35 PSI and that seems about perfect in terms of ride quality and even tread wear. If I run up to 40 PSI+ I start to notice that the edge of the tread shows no contact with the asphalt. I don't care what equations your using that tell you to ride with 46 PSI....if you have the outer 1 inch of tread on either side of the tire not making contact with the asphalt, something is wrong and your equation is definitely not accounting for something. I've had my share of C,D,E tires on Jeeps etc....I've never run any of them near the PSI's mentioned. No issues, and they last the advertised 40-60k depending on the brand.
I'm convinced that 80% of the people here with LT's are running with over inflated tires thinking they have a 2500 pickup. Absolutely no way you guys running at 46PSI are getting full tread contact and your rigs have to be squirly as hell.
He is running 35s. Tires with larger diameter and more interior volume take less PSI to carry the same load.Maybe the math works, but that seems awfully low for an E-rated tire.
Search google for "LT Load Inflation Table" you'll come up with the tire industry load/inflation table which will list the PSI required to carry a certain load by tire size.I'm having a hard time mathing today. My e rated grabbers are max load capable of 3195lbs at 65psi. I've been running 40psi with good luck lately, but it's a total shot in the dark.
I don't know if this math is right or even applicable.
So 3195 max at 65lbs.
Assume each tire carries a max of 1750lbs at any given time, 3195/1750 = .5477. 65x.5477 = 35.6PSI
So I should be running 35.5psi thereabouts?
40psi seems to be the sweetspot with my E rated cooper STT's. Excellent ride and handling when loaded and gives a good pattern with a chalk test. Been up to 44psi, but doesn't seem to make a noticeable difference in any one category so I keep things at ~40.
In regards to some other comments in this thread, 50-65psi on a 4Runner is just ridiculous.