LTDSC
New member
they have it for the 5th gen but i know what i needed to do for it to work. :flypig:
LTDSC Build Thread
- Thread starter LTDSC
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they have it for the 5th gen but i know what i needed to do for it to work. :flypig:
LTDSC
New member
I've been working on this little project for a little while now. Had a work neighbor help me and he machined the M22 rod end size to fit and thread perfectly into the King rod end. Then tapped the M8 shifter thread and purchased a jam nut to clock it properly and tighten it down. I think it turned out great.
4Runner010
New member
i picked up a used Tepui Kukenam RTT a few weeks back and got some replacement parts for it and finally had the time to swap the bases and mount it to my vehicle.
I still need to cut the mounting bars down.
Did you mount the RTT straight to your stock roof rack? If so do you have any pics, I recently bought one in the CVT group buy and am curious. I can see some bars that run across?
LTDSC
New member
yes, i still need to cut the excess exposed bars down. But i mounted directly to the main rails, not the crossbars. I have it open on the passenger side so the bars need to be trimmed to lay fully flat with the cover still attached while open.
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LTDSC
New member
I was able to get out with the In-Laws and go camping this past weekend. it was a lot of fun with the new RTT. It was fairly cold at night (low 40s) and we were plenty warm inside the tent with just a sleeping bag. We even kicked off the blankets because we were warm enough. We woke up to everything covered in moisture as it was really foggy in the area and the tent never dripped on us like our previous ground tent had. So needless to say Im extremely happy with it and cant wait to use it more.
Naturally after a weekend of using it i have a mile long list of things i now want to do to it and buy for a better camping experience. I noticed a small dent starting where the ladder lands so i grabbed some remnant commercial waterproof double stick carpet we sell and cut and stuck it to the base floor. This will add a little padding for the ladder so it hopefully wont beat up the base floor, and its weatherproof.
Another member here was selling a black cover which i wish i could have had the chance to purchase in the kit but i was not able to. So i jumped on it and it looks better than the grey on top of the runner.
Naturally after a weekend of using it i have a mile long list of things i now want to do to it and buy for a better camping experience. I noticed a small dent starting where the ladder lands so i grabbed some remnant commercial waterproof double stick carpet we sell and cut and stuck it to the base floor. This will add a little padding for the ladder so it hopefully wont beat up the base floor, and its weatherproof.
Another member here was selling a black cover which i wish i could have had the chance to purchase in the kit but i was not able to. So i jumped on it and it looks better than the grey on top of the runner.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
How are you liking the bypasses? Have you played around with adjusting them or were they good out of the box from Filthy Motorsports? I bet you still have a ton of room in the wheel well with the aftermarket wheels and wheel spacers even with the bypass tubes and remote reservoir?
I've been running the numbers on some 12" Kings to mount them higher with my 1.5" body lift. Might be my next setup.
I've been running the numbers on some 12" Kings to mount them higher with my 1.5" body lift. Might be my next setup.
LTDSC
New member
Bypasses have been great. I have adjusted the tubes a bit, both compression and rebound.
With the 2" spacers on the rear it makes good amount of room for the tubes, but i had mine clocked to be indexed this way because originally i had planned for the mount to be different. Once we got in there and cut it made more sense to make it mount this way. If i were to go it again i would index the tubes differently.
Personally i use all of my 10" stroke and i dont see how or where i could get more travel either way if i had gone 12". So me personally i think its a waste.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I am okay with stock length bumps with my 1.5" body lift, I just need to trim the rear bumper back, there are no rub marks on the top of the wheel wells yet.
If I move a 12" shock up 4" then I could basically run stock bumps and be 1" shorter than Metaltech long travel extended length. On paper. I know things always end up where they will fit the best.
But a 10" would give me 1/2" more travel than I have now (regular Icons) and I don't think I've ever lifted a rear tire. Adding a rear locker might make up for a few inches of downtravel when crawling and flexing out anyway. Dang might have to get a 10" now.
LTDSC
New member
I would hate to see you do all that work and not use 2" of the stroke ya know.
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Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Yeah I've read your threads, cool stuff. Would you still have room in there if you raised your shock up an inch or two more? They would need to go outboard a bit to clear the wheel well. Your 12" shock is the biggest that can still have the threaded over top cap option so you are shorter by 1" than any other bypass or 3" shock. I'm debating between your short 12" smoothie, a 1" longer 2.5" bypass shock, or a 3" smoothie. And 10" or 12" on the last 2 options, I'm sure you like your 12" of travel but a 10" would be easy to fit and would I really miss that 2" of travel at the shock?(my dumb emotional side that fuels my mods says yes I would miss it).
I know they are all overkill because even my standard length RR 2.5" rears are "fine" but more travel over the rocks would be nice.
I've been thinking about welding all my own links and converting to 3-link, already plugged all my numbers into the excel calculators you can download online, should be real easy. Get rid of that driver's side upper link and potentially move the gas tank up as much as my body lift will allow.
Yeah, I think I could have gone up another inch if I had angled the shock tabs , but then I was running into contact with the rest of the mount on the shock body, but yes if you fanangled with the mounts a bit more could be achieved. The lower mounts are where the magi happens though to get the 12's in there, without dropping them from stock (I don't recall how much further down they are than stock) you are not going to get full compression.
I think there was a guy on 120 that did 12's with the post and stock lower mount as well, but the problem is with longer shocks you are flexing them more side to side and post mounts don't like that, I personally wouldn't run a 12 with a post. Yes I know people do it, but post break easy and often if you are hard on them.
As far as missing the 2", IDK, hard to say but, but if you are doing a full custom job and all new lower mounts, might as well do 12's. I think Sam did a hybrid of a new upper mount and using the stock lower mount with shock tabs welded on.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I would imagine they could valve it any way I wanted, though it may be a little tricky to get it correct on the first try without a baseline in the 3" series for our trucks. I would talk to them first before I order but a guy with a GX470 has them on instagram.
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