Madcanvis- Build Thread

Fuel Injectors

After having the exact same problem as the OP found here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...6-misfire-fixed-fuel-injector-99-4runner.html

I know there are several threads on this forum about misfires, ignition failures, etc... .pattern to the problem; with the engine cold, on start up it would run fine. If the engine were stopped then allowed to sit for at least 10 minutes, once restarted the misfire would surface again. If I shut off the engine and let it cool for several hours, once restarted it would be fine. It was as if heat were related, but only if warmed up on startup.

I realized I now need to go after the injectors since coil packs and cables were replaced. My CEL code was P0171 and P304.
And replace the Fuel Filter (Autozone)- aside from dealing with the fuel spilling out- it was straight forward.

The swap is all straight forward unless you run into the issue I had. 3 injectors broke. Now the plan was to change out #2,4,6 and do the other 3 at a later date. But 2 and 6 broke while in the chamber and 5 broke when trying to free the fuel rail. Thank goodness I had an old spare. I cleaned the 3 remaining "good" old ones and put in the 1,3,5 side.
Heres a pic showing where the brittle plastic failed after 210K miles.
The pic shows the body with a port still attatched and a broken port lying next to it (I was pretty freaked out and realized this is the only photo I took while in the middle of process)
injector_broke.JPG

Heres how I got it out of the chamber:
3 inch drywall screw threaded down into one of the holes (there are 2) of the plastic piece. Spry PB blast and wiggle the drywall screw. Wait, spray, wiggle. After a while PULL!!!

Be sure to order 2 intake gaskets for the plenum. I found a small leak in the lower plenum gasket between cylinders 1+2. Notice the black and oxidation in the photo below:
injector_fuel_rail.JPG

I cleaned all surfaces off from the old gasket and re-installed all
Now if you've followed along, the bad injector that started this snowball effect is still in their. No shops had any in stock. That's another day- SOON!

However, here's a question for any experts (please PM me):
Can I swap out 1,3,5 injectors with out removing the plenum AND not disturb the other side (i.e. remove the left fuel rail only)? It seemed like the metal tube at the front is rigid and not removable.

Much thanks.
 

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Another Energy Suspension Moog fit issue

I've read plenty of times where the Moog frond enlinks and Energy Suspension poly bushings have fit issues. Add me to the list!

Swapped my front swaybar endlinks and bushings last week (and fuel filter).
I did the rears last Spring with no issues (ES and Moog as well).

This time however, the front links seemed pretty scrawny! But the main bushings fit perfect. And for the Northeast drivers hit the dealership for new brackets ($15 each PN: 48824-35150 and 48829-35120), bolts, and nuts as shown in my previous post in this build. It saved TONS of time!

See photo:
Moog
swaybar_bushing_moog_front.JPG

Energy Suspension
swaybar_bushing_poly_front.JPG

Old Stabilizer Bushings
swaybar_bushing_old.JPG

Considering I replaced the steering rack bushings back in the fall, the whole front end shows considerable ride improvement. Plan to chase down the seller of Amazon for the correct bushings and send the over-sized ones back

OP in action
swaybar_bushing_repair.jpg
 

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Just saw a post that says when lifting a 3rd gen, use 3rd gen fronts on the rear and 2nd gen fronts on front. Maybe if/when I go up to a 2" I'll make that switch.
Now Im all messed up because I found a pic of the link before the swap. Maybe when aligning the rearend on the trailing arm before installing the swaybar threw it (swaybar link) out of true. But the rig tracks well and took an avoidance maneuver at 70mph on the freeway today (I pee'd a little and my wife FREAKED! LOL)

Still needs to be addressed tho (here's the old swaybar link)
View attachment 124838

With those sway bar links. One thing to look into maybe is contacting MStudt on here and seeing if he can make you some. They are way more heavy duty and he can do quick disconnects as well. Check out my build thread, i actually just installed mine and they work amazing. He generally extends them an Inch longer than the stock ones from what i understand. Just something to look into maybe later down the road though.
 
Remove fuel line to separate rails! Ok! 17mm wrench on gas line as seen on Matt's How to...
Matt's How-to... Blog: How to replace a fuel injector on a toyota 4 runner

Thanks.

That guys write up is pretty awesome, and is pretty much exactly how I did it.

I've attached a couple of diagrams that the Toyota dealership gave me for the fuel system and the intake--I'm sure they could print them out for you too. It helped me make sense of how everything was put together and would come apart.
 

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Quick update. The 4runner has been brought back on the roads for winter.
It was running horribly this past summer on the rare occasion I drove it.
The injectors (rebuilt rockauto) I installed last year solved the problem for a bit. But I was getting some SERIOUS loss of power and the blinking CEL. I brought the rig to a buddy's garage and told him what Ive already done.

Note: on the way to drop it off I got a clunk (or single knock) from what sounded like below the passenger side floor board and the truck had ZERO power then crept back up to speed. This happened twice.
At the garage they pressure tested fuel lines and compression checked all cylinders. They found a bad fuel injector. I asked them to replace all FIs with OEM since the fuel rail was off. It ran ok for a while but still not great and then threw the O2 sensor OBD code. Read a ton of forums and since my exhaust was on its way out (rust) I removed the O2 simulator from UDR (works great BTW), and installed new exhaust from the 1st cat back and a new Denso O2 sensor. 3 things were causing the issue sub-par fuel injectors coupled a bad cat and/or O2 sensor.

Disclaimer: I know throwing parts/$$ at a problem isnt the way to resolve specific issues but when it needs to be done as was the case with the exhaust then I feel it's worth the repair.

My 3rd Gen is loving life right now at 218,000. Next up is to to refinish those 5-stars.
 
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Blower motor

Thanks to millerad1651 (cleaning the blower motor http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/113266-cleaning-blower-fan-write-up.html) I got to check my blower motor under the dash because after it sat and I swapped out the exhaust, I fired it up and there was barely any volume coming from vents and a humming from the blower (that and all kinds of debris shot on the floor). Here's what was in the hamster wheel:
image.jpg
 

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Wheels Back

219xxx miles and the 5 stars are back from sandblasting (they primed for $10 each).
Cant wait for warm temps to finish them up.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/87633-official-wheel-paint-thread-15.html

Along with all that hardware I bought at the dealership, I recently grabbed a pair of 99 tall front coils from a user here and am having those installed today. Not a big fan of fooling with the front springs esp since its 30*F and I havent got a garage. Oh well. So now I've got 99 tall springs on all 4 corners and 10mm trim spacer (toytec) installed on the rear.
20160224 99 talls on all 4.jpg

Wasn't too amped about the overall height so...
I just ordered a 1/2" BL from "shootmymime" which should arrive soon.
 

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