Manual locking hubs for a 3rd gen ?!!?!

[amalik]

CV's not spinning while going down the road is most of our main reason for it. Keeps the boots from shredding themselves. Also a much simpler system than ADD and pretty much bombproof.

So it's the same thing as what a normal 4runner with part-time 4WD does (except not automated), and 1 less failure point with the ADD potentially being an issue in the Auto-4WD world?

The only issue I can see with manual is you lose the ability to set 4WD on the fly for scenarios where certain parts of the road are icy or heavy with rain, but then after 2-3 minutes of driving you turn 4WD off. I find this to be a very convenient option.

 

[habanero]

So it's the same thing as what a normal 4runner with part-time 4WD does (except not automated), and 1 less failure point with the ADD potentially being an issue in the Auto-4WD world?

The only issue I can see with manual is you lose the ability to set 4WD on the fly for scenarios where certain parts of the road are icy or heavy with rain, but then after 2-3 minutes of driving you turn 4WD off. I find this to be a very convenient option.

They can still fail but the cvs don't turn when unlocked. Gives my self-eating boots longer life and unlock for if broken.

On days it's possible I'll need 4wd I lock the hubs. Then they act like normal add hubs and I can shift to 4wd in-cab. Not as convenient, true, I have to remember to do it. Easy when airing down because right in front of me, less so on potential inclement weather days.

Now that full-floating rear hubs action, totally wish I could afford that!

 

[PWD4R]

Thank you both for the info. I plan on converting to manual hubs at some point.











Well, Habanero's not a dude, so...yeah.

So the answer is a yes then.


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[amalik]

They can still fail but the cvs don't turn when unlocked. Gives my self-eating boots longer life and unlock for if broken.

On days it's possible I'll need 4wd I lock the hubs. Then they act like normal add hubs and I can shift to 4wd in-cab. Not as convenient, true, I have to remember to do it. Easy when airing down because right in front of me, less so on potential inclement weather days.

Now that full-floating rear hubs action, totally wish I could afford that!

Oh I think I see what you're saying!

So in a traditional setup (Like my 97 limited), my front CV's are always turning even when 4WD is off. Only difference is power to those CV's is engaged with the front differential when I enable 4WD.

So, another question, excuse my ignorance.

If 'ADD' is used in normal 4WD, and *not* used in manual hubs; do you need to replace the 'shifting' mechanism in order to be able to engage 4WD on the fly as you mentioned? (Once you unlock the hubs manually first). I hope my question made sense.

Lastly, what the hell is full float rear hub?

 

[MACT4R]

Oh I think I see what you're saying!

So in a traditional setup (Like my 97 limited), my front CV's are always turning even when 4WD is off. Only difference is power to those CV's is engaged with the front differential when I enable 4WD.

So, another question, excuse my ignorance.

If 'ADD' is used in normal 4WD, and *not* used in manual hubs; do you need to replace the 'shifting' mechanism in order to be able to engage 4WD on the fly as you mentioned? (Once you unlock the hubs manually first). I hope my question made sense.

Lastly, what the hell is full float rear hub?

That's funny! I said the same thing when I first started to do my research on converting the rear drum brakes to disc brakes and came across this. I was thinking holy crap that is beastly! So in addition to the manual locking hub both conversion would be awesome!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/95322-dirtcos-1999-4runner-build-32.html#post1126743

 

[habanero]

Oh I think I see what you're saying!

So in a traditional setup (Like my 97 limited), my front CV's are always turning even when 4WD is off. Only difference is power to those CV's is engaged with the front differential when I enable 4WD.

So, another question, excuse my ignorance.

If 'ADD' is used in normal 4WD, and *not* used in manual hubs; do you need to replace the 'shifting' mechanism in order to be able to engage 4WD on the fly as you mentioned? (Once you unlock the hubs manually first). I hope my question made sense.

Lastly, what the hell is full float rear hub?

You're getting it. You do not need to replace any of the other parts, the only difference is the cv shafts can be disengaged at the wheel. The dif and shifter works just as before, you just have to engage (lock) the cv shafts at the wheels whereas add is always engaged at the wheels.

Full float would have meant being able to drive home using the front after blowing up the ring and pinion....MACT4R's link is a better explanation.

 

[rkntoy]

I know this is a weird ass question but do you shave your legs or something?

I shave my legs. Does that mean I need to turn in my manual hubs?

 

[PWD4R]

I shave my legs. Does that mean I need to turn in my manual hubs?

Not sure what manual hubs and shaving have to do with each other but ok buddy. Turn them in if you want.


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[habanero]

Now that we've got the manual hub stuff figured and we're getting off topic I'll answer before this gets any crazier. Mods feel free to delete or anyone pm me and I will.

I know this is a weird ass question but do you shave your legs or something?

This is a very weird question and it both cracked me up and wonder if I missed a spot!

Well, Habanero's not a dude, so...yeah.

Though dudes shave legs for a variety of reasons, like making it easier to clean up road or trail rash. Or maybe to feel the joy of stinging nettle against their skin.

So the answer is a yes then.

Um.....yes.

I shave my legs. Does that mean I need to turn in my manual hubs?

Dunno about you, but I'm keeping mine!

Not sure what manual hubs and shaving have to do with each other but ok buddy. Turn them in if you want.

I'm curious why the question, but other than maybe making it easier to get the grease off after working on the truck I don't see why it matters either.
I have to say I've not seen it asked on a yota forum before, you know it was bound to get some attention. Thanks for the chuckle.

Any more manual hub infos or questions?

 

[Mark_BC]

Where do you find these assemblies? I found one on Ebay for $700 but [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] said they should run about $400.

I have ABS so I'll do as Tim did in his last video on this and swap them into a regular knuckle. To minimise down time I'll probably get a set from the junkyard and swap into those.

 

[Dezert4Runner]

Where do you find these assemblies? I found one on Ebay for $700 but [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] said they should run about $400.

I have ABS so I'll do as Tim did in his last video on this and swap them into a regular knuckle. To minimise down time I'll probably get a set from the junkyard and swap into those.

I posted in this thread earier, and have since acquired some ABS spindles and am finally going to starting to piece a set together. I’m buying new bearings since you have to put in new ones when going this route, and will probably need to buy the rest of the internal hub hardware like the locking nut, c-clip, and oil seal and just use Napa non ADD cv’s so all I’m really looking for used at this point is the complete Aisin hubs with lockouts.

I’ve seen used lockout hubs with dials and hardware go for about $150-$175 (sometime less) on TW but they don’t come up too often and get snatched up quick. No idea what eBay prices are for complete non ADD Tacoma spindles with locking hubs and non ADD cv’s. I’ll probably keep checking e-Bay for some used hubs but it seems like all I see are really beat up sets of Aisin hubs or aftermarket Warn hubs. Copart.com has some all throughout the US but there’s no telling what you’ll end up with if you need them shipped to you and can’t lay eyes on them before buying.

 

[JZiggy]

You can buy the Aisin hubs new. They’re a little over $100 each.

 

[Mark_BC]

You can buy the Aisin hubs new. They’re a little over $100 each.

That is decent quality? Is it the FHT-019? There is also the FHT-018 but I think that is for older pickups.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015R1EF6Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

They have Toyota brand at Camelback for $200 each

https://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-hub-assembly-4350235160

What's the thought on aftermarket cv's? It's just a cv, I wouldn't think it is too important to go OEM or Aisin.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXN1X34/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A2U9YX3F7EBCBP&psc=1

 

[mtbtim]

Where do you find these assemblies? I found one on Ebay for $700 but [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] said they should run about $400.

I have ABS so I'll do as Tim did in his last video on this and swap them into a regular knuckle. To minimise down time I'll probably get a set from the junkyard and swap into those.

$400 seemed to be the going rate in my area. People can ask whatever they want. Maybe you can talk that person down to a more reasonable amount. $700 is pretty steep.

 

[JZiggy]

That is decent quality? Is it the FHT-019? There is also the FHT-018 but I think that is for older pickups.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015R1EF6Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

They have Toyota brand at Camelback for $200 each

https://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-hub-assembly-4350235160

What's the thought on aftermarket cv's? It's just a cv, I wouldn't think it is too important to go OEM or Aisin.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXN1X34/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A2U9YX3F7EBCBP&psc=1

Yes, the FHT-019 is an Aisin hub that is exactly the same as the factory ones.

OEM CVs strongly preferred due to strength.

 

[Mark_BC]

I got a set of used regular hubs from the junkyard, and a couple new Aisin hubs to swap in. They are a bit rusty and the backing plate got bashed up so I'll replace those plates. But I'm having a hard time figuring out the part numbers for both sides [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] do you recall? I get 47704-35091 for both sides. But they should be different. I also found 47703-35101 but it is twice the price and the drawings look different.

https://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-splash-shield-4770335101

https://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-backing-plate-4770435091

 

[JZiggy]

I got a set of used regular hubs from the junkyard, and a couple new Aisin hubs to swap in. They are a bit rusty and the backing plate got bashed up so I'll replace those plates. But I'm having a hard time figuring out the part numbers for both sides [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] do you recall? I get 47704-35091 for both sides. But they should be different. I also found 47703-35101 but it is twice the price and the drawings look different.

https://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-splash-shield-4770335101

https://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-backing-plate-4770435091

Looks like I used parts 47703-35091 and 47704-35091. The two sides take different part numbers. They fit my base model truck which came with the "small" front calipers for 15" wheels. Since I had done the 199mm TBU I had to just bend them backwards a bit to fit. It's possible the higher price ones are for 16" stock brakes.

 

[Mark_BC]

OK that makes sense. So it seems like 47703-35101 and 47704-35101 are for 16" wheels and 47703-35091 and 47704-35091 are for 15" wheels. Since you were able to just bend yours to fit, it might not be worth twice the money for the 16" ones.

 

[octanejunkie]

Found this

ORS Manual Hub Conversion Kit - Products - Off Road Solutions

 

[habanero]

Fun with lock-outs...

Old fun, this thread popped up in my notifications so I thought I'd add to it.
I did use a thin thin coat of grease, it's been mentioned to not do grease though so figure that for your ownself. Did this in 2019 because the dial o-ring was toaster pastried.

I am not a mechanic, nor do I play one on tv, and I did not RTFreakin'M.
habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread - Page 195 - YotaTech Forums starting post 3888