Manual locking hubs for a 3rd gen ?!!?!

If I come across anymore manual hubs around here. I will snag them as it maybe worth shipping them around The US.. :-)
 
Look for a Chevy 4x4 truck with 14 bolt/Sterling axles and add the factory electric locker option.

You have a better chance of finding those in the yards than vintage Toyota parts.

My buddy has a whole SAS setup for his 2nd Gen that I may snag next year, if he ever gets around to building those tons sitting behind his shop. I only want to run 37's and keep mine super low to the ground as possible.

I have seen a couple write-up in the Tacoma groups about flipping a Pass Side drop Toyota Axle to Driver Side Drop.
 
My buddy has a whole SAS setup for his 2nd Gen that I may snag next year, if he ever gets around to building those tons sitting behind his shop. I only want to run 37's and keep mine super low to the ground as possible.



I have seen a couple write-up in the Tacoma groups about flipping a Pass Side drop Toyota Axle to Driver Side Drop.
If you are willing and able to fabricate as much as required to flip an axle housing then it is surely an option for you.

The real value of an axle/SAS swap is to be able to run 40"+ tires which a stock IFS Toyota can't do well.

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You can get all the parts for a manual hub swap from Toyota.

Yea. They still have them.


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Okay, bit of a zombie reboot, but I'm hoping to simply answer my question.

1996 4Runner.

Trakmotiv extended travel C/V's installed last year.

TrakMotive TO-8043XTT CV Axle Shaft + Cross Reference | FinditParts

Can I simply purchase gen 1 AISIN Tacoma manual locking hubs and "bolt them on" in ~30 minutes a side, like it seems it can be done in many cases?

Was hoping to put Warn's in but they look like a no go.

Or do I need to source a bunch of other stuff, just to make my hubs manual.

I'm cool with a couple hundred bucks and an hour in the driveway. If I need to scour the web for a bunch of parts and tear the whole axle apart to swap out random bits, I'm less interested....

Thanks!
 
Okay, bit of a zombie reboot, but I'm hoping to simply answer my question.

1996 4Runner.

Trakmotiv extended travel C/V's installed last year.

TrakMotive TO-8043XTT CV Axle Shaft + Cross Reference | FinditParts

Can I simply purchase gen 1 AISIN Tacoma manual locking hubs and "bolt them on" in ~30 minutes a side, like it seems it can be done in many cases?

Was hoping to put Warn's in but they look like a no go.

Or do I need to source a bunch of other stuff, just to make my hubs manual.

I'm cool with a couple hundred bucks and an hour in the driveway. If I need to scour the web for a bunch of parts and tear the whole axle apart to swap out random bits, I'm less interested....

Thanks!

Timmy the Toolman has a video on installing manual locking hubs
 
Okay, bit of a zombie reboot, but I'm hoping to simply answer my question.

1996 4Runner.

Trakmotiv extended travel C/V's installed last year.

Can I simply purchase gen 1 AISIN Tacoma manual locking hubs and "bolt them on" in ~30 minutes a side, like it seems it can be done in many cases?

Thanks!

Short answer: no.

the CV's for manual hubs are different, as it the hub itself.
(I feel like this would have been explained here in this thread?)
Anyway, still possible with your knuckles, but way more than an hour's work
;)
 
No you can't. Not even close.

Also as I have manual hubs now, with the cv's for manual hubs they bind super early in down travel. If you have stock setup they will be fine, but extended coilovers and aftermarket upper arms is a no go (what i have). I installed limit straps (to save the coil overs) but had to crank them down to damn near stock droop level to protect the cv's from binding and breaking. So you loose all the benefit for the longer travel suspension.

Benefit for manual hubs, lock/unlock individual axles. If the cv breaks unlock the hub and drive on. Cool factor.

But I'm going back to standard hubs with track trackmotive cv's and reap the benefits of the longer down travel.

And no, I'm not going to sell my manual hub stuff.
 
I emailed them a bit ago and got the response of:

"We do not have high articulation cv axles for the manual locking hub truck at this time."

I asked if they are planning on making any and got no response.

The 2 cv's I'm using now manual hub ones are trakmotive. I even took some apart and the splines and outer cv is completely different, so no swapping ends. Custom cv ends to mate to the trakmotive high articulation cv's would be the solution but serious $$$.
 
Thanks all.

Yes? It probably was covered, but I'm a bicycle mechanic, not a truck mechanic, and I never, ever assume that what I just read, but had no deep, intrinsic comprehension of, would cover MY situation.

Learned that a long time ago. Assumptions make an ass of me, while annoying those around me.



Perfect, that was the read I had takem but wanted to confirm.

I'll leave them automatic.
 
Thanks all.

Yes? It probably was covered, but I'm a bicycle mechanic, not a truck mechanic, and I never, ever assume that what I just read, but had no deep, intrinsic comprehension of, would cover MY situation.

Learned that a long time ago. Assumptions make an ass of me, while annoying those around me.



Perfect, that was the read I had takem but wanted to confirm.

I'll leave them automatic.

No worries!
Just wanted to ensure we weren't basically going in circles...

And be glad they're NOT automatic hubs! Those sucked, but ironically
were super easy to swap to manuals. Go figure.
 
When I got a front locker and regeared to 4.88 gears, I went a step further and took the ADD stuff off the front diff. Since the manual hubs stop everything from turning, there's not need for the ADD, it's simply one more thing that can fail out on the trail and leave you without 4WD.

I guess almost more opportunistic than anything, I found a manual hub Tacoma in the junkyard. Someone had already taken the manual hub swap parts, but left the diff. So I grabbed the bolt-on right side leg. Easy to swap. The only electrical change I needed to do was to loop the front locked switch wiring at the plug, so it basically always says it's locked (which it is), the 4WD light comes on as soon as the transfer case is in 4WD now. Then I removed the vacuum solenoids and capped the vac line at the manifold.

Ta9enMR.jpeg
 

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