Searched high and low for the past hour, but can't find a tutorial on changing the manual transmission fluid on a 3rd gen. Think I've got it pieced together from bits of several threads, but haven't seen the thorough type of write up that I seem to be able to find on here for everything else. The one link that people have used (4runners.org) is dead. Looking to change manual transmission fluid on 2000 V6 5spd. Any help/pictures appreciated. Going to buy a pump and use Redline MT90.
Manual Transmission Fluid Change
- Thread starter kjcprb
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Mark_BC
Senior Member
Pretty easy, loosen the fill plug, then remove the drain plug, let it all flow out. Good idea to put some new crush washers on the plugs, then refill. I didn't even need a pump, I was able to use the little quart containers and squirt it in.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Not many GL5's do this anymore... but there is no reason to go GL5 when a GL4 is what is recommended fluid and there are so many good GL4 fluid options.
(GL5 fluid is required on transmissions with integrated hypoid gears like those found on the Celica Alltrac/GT4 and manual transmission Subarus...)
-Charlie
Scramble
New member
I was going to start a topic about this. I'm not saying this is not true. But exactly how do we know this? Are there any scientific or physical tests that people have done to prove this statement. Because, I had regular valvoline gl-5 gear oil in my tranny for year plus. Then switched to redline. And my tranny went to shit in like 6 months. I'm not sure if it's related to gear oil or not. But I really want to know exactly why gl-5 is bad for our manual transmission. And the proof. Vs someone said ... heard it on the internet. Currently I replaced my transmission with a used one again. And I'm running Walmart gear oil. I'm debating to switch to redline.
Mark_BC
Senior Member
Maybe something like how auto trannies can die after you flush out all the gunk.
One of the first things I did when I bought my '98 was change the diffs/trans fluid. I put Redline MT-90 in, and I did find shifting was a bit easier/less clunky but this is hardly scientific. I had only driven the thing for a few weeks before I changed it out. I would definitely be interested in seeing some sort of comparison, but that hard to come by.
To the OP, 4runner.org has gone up and down like a yo-yo over the past few years. I assume it's cause people like me read the site and don't donate to the hosting costs... But after the first time I noticed it went down I ripped the entire site. I attached a PDF print out of the write up your looking for.
To the OP, 4runner.org has gone up and down like a yo-yo over the past few years. I assume it's cause people like me read the site and don't donate to the hosting costs... But after the first time I noticed it went down I ripped the entire site. I attached a PDF print out of the write up your looking for.
I stand corrected. Thanks Scramble.
pluton
Senior Member
First, MT-90 hasn't destroyed the four different Toyota Aisin manual transmissions I've used it in over 19 years.
Second, I've never seen the synchros in the R150F, so I wouldn't know if they are made of brass, or are affected in any way by the extreme pressure ingredients in GL-5.
Third, Toyota says both GL-4 and GL-5 are OK in the trans. Same for my old '91 4WD Toyota truck also. One service guy(a "drivetrain expert") put Mobil 30 weight motor oil in the trans in that truck. It worked fine, but I changed it 'cause the book says use gear oil.
Fourth, One nice thing about MT-90: It lasts a really long time. Like 60K miles just fine. I learned that when I drained it out of that old '91 truck at about 30K miles: It looked new.
Good info bud. If toyota says both gl-4 and gl-5 are good in our transmission. Then why are we saying gl-5 is bad ? How do we know it has brass synchros. How do we know, that even gl-5 does any demage to brass synchros.
When I switched to gl-4 redline in my first r150f. I didn't notice anything different. I'm actually going to try and take it apart and see what exactly went wrong in my r150f and maybe I'll be able to see if it's brass synchros and take some photos.
I just really want to know rather then, "I heard gl-5 is bad for our transmission "
phattyduck
Elite Member
Historically, SOME (not all!) GL-5 fluids are not synchro safe. This isn't really the case anymore. Chemical technologies are much better these days.
You have brass synchros - essentially all MT's use them.
GL5 fluids are the FACTORY FILL on some manual transmissions. There are just much better options for GL4 fluids that allow for better shifting and life of the synchros.
The big issue here is not that the GL5 additives ruin synchros (not anymore at least - some used to have chemical reactions) - its that the additives that make it work well for hypoid gears make it hard to have a good additive package that has the right friction for good synchro action. Since worn synchros are what cause most MT's to need a rebuild, go with the one that helps them do their job right...
TL;DR: GL5 fluids won't ruin your trans, but GL4 fluids will be better for shifting.
-Charlie
TheDurk
Elite Member
I started this, and I have to say I think the above is correct. I made the choice to go to MT-90 GL4 about 15 years ago on my first fluid change, and there was a lot of persuasive info as to the fact that sulfur eats brass and GL-5 caused issues on MT synchronizers. There is no doubt our rigs have these. I certainly haven't updated my info since I have been so happy with the MT-90. Add in new urethane shifter bushings and my trans shifts beautifully at 170k,
FYI...son has a '98 Jeep Wranger with Aisin-Warner AX15 five speed manual. Jeep forums are full of stories and documentation of GL-5 eating brass synchros. Son's Jeep was notchy and difficult to shift when cold from 1st to 2nd. Used Redline MT-90 (75W-90 GL-4) and dramatically improved performance.
Later switched to Redline MTL (75W-80 GL-4) and works even better in cold climates like Colorado.
Later switched to Redline MTL (75W-80 GL-4) and works even better in cold climates like Colorado.
