Master Window Switch Problem

segafan1989

segafan1989

New member
Here's the issue: using the master switch on the drivers side, the passenger front window will only go down....it will not go up in manual or auto mode. It works fine using the passenger side switch. I have to reach across the truck and use the switch on the passenger front door to get it to roll up. I replaced the master switch thinking the circuit board may be bad but that didn't work. Is there something else I can look into?
 
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Has noone else EVER experienced anything similar to this? My skills do not lie in the electrical realm so any sound advice would be appreciated.
 
segafan1989 said:
Has noone else EVER experienced anything similar to this? My skills do not lie in the electrical realm so any sound advice would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

Well, I have this problem currently. Bit it's on my 'wait until spring' list. It was 9°F last night. Can you wait?
 
i too have a similar issue.. it rarely goes down but will always go up. I was going to clean the connection this weekend. But odd as you'd think it would have to relate to the switch itself
 
Holy crap Durk...9 degrees?! I would've put it off as well. It's nice to know that I'm not singled out here. It's a strange issue indeed but I can wait. I'll continue to troubleshoot when I can and if I find a fix, I'll post.
 
segafan1989 said:
Here's the issue: using the master switch on the drivers side, the passenger front window will only go down....it will not go up in manual or auto mode. It works fine using the passenger side switch. I have to reach across the truck and use the switch on the passenger front door to get it to roll up. I replaced the master switch thinking the circuit board may be bad but that didn't work. Is there something else I can look into?
Click to expand...

If you replaced the master switch with a new or known good switch, the fault is most likely in the door mounted switch. We can check that if you are patient and willing. The master switch doesn't actually connect to the other window motors, it connects to the switch at each of the other doors.
Of course if you have another switch to try that would be the easiest thing to try, if you don't, let me know and we'll start the testing.

Start by removing the door panel and accessing the window switch. A test light or DVOM will be required.

The electrical diagram I have it for a 2002, I'll give you colors and pin positions to check. If the colors don't match, we'll work around it.

This will be lengthy, so let me know if you want to proceed [MENTION=105808]segafan1989[/MENTION]

:couch2:
 
IBallEngineer said:
If you replaced the master switch with a new or known good switch, the fault is most likely in the door mounted switch. We can check that if you are patient and willing. The master switch doesn't actually connect to the other window motors, it connects to the switch at each of the other doors.
Of course if you have another switch to try that would be the easiest thing to try, if you don't, let me know and we'll start the testing.

Start by removing the door panel and accessing the window switch. A test light or DVOM will be required.

The electrical diagram I have it for a 2002, I'll give you colors and pin positions to check. If the colors don't match, we'll work around it.

This will be lengthy, so let me know if you want to proceed [MENTION=105808]segafan1989[/MENTION]

:couch2:
Click to expand...

That's good to know because I thought a wire ran from the master switch to every door. I do want to test it so I will do it this afternoon when I get home. I have a test light. You want me to start by removing the drivers side door panel or the passengers?
 
segafan1989 said:
That's good to know because I thought a wire ran from the master switch to every door. I do want to test it so I will do it this afternoon when I get home. I have a test light. You want me to start by removing the drivers side door panel or the passengers?
Click to expand...

If all that is required is access to the switch, you just need to pull up--or pry up if necessary--on the front edge of the little panel the switch is mounted on. Only pull the door panel if you need direct access to the motor. Meanwhile, temp is up to 43°F here and my issue has gone away--ascribing it to cold temp anomaly for the time being.

But I'll get some popcorn and watch you guys.
[MENTION=105808]segafan1989[/MENTION], what year are you? I have access to '99 diagrams if your year is closer to that.
 
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segafan1989 said:
That's good to know because I thought a wire ran from the master switch to every door. I do want to test it so I will do it this afternoon when I get home. I have a test light. You want me to start by removing the drivers side door panel or the passengers?
Click to expand...

We need to access the switch of the window that is having issues. I believe you said it was the passenger front. And if you can pull up the switch bezel/housing area, all the better. Have some paperclips or something similar ready to probe the backside of the connector.

A wire DOES run from the master switch to every door, but not directly to the motor. It basically "triggers" the switch.

:couch2:
 
TURN THE KEY ON!

First ground your test light(use the door striker), and test that it has a good ground by touching it to term 7, the blue wire. It should light. Once you do that, confirm that the motor still goes up and down while testing the switch outputs. With the window switch going down, you should have power at terminal 6 blue/yellow wire. With the switch going up, you should have power at terminal 1 Light green wire.

I'll tell you the next stage once you've done that!

:couch2:
 
Give me a few minutes....testing as you said to. I've got a multimeter if that helps matters.

Update: Okay, I tested everything as you said and I have power at each wire. Next step?
 
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OK here is the next step.

The first thing you checked was that the switch was functioning and window motor was functioning. That was all good. Now we need to see if the Master switch signal is getting to this switch.

There are two red wires in terminals 8 and 9.

The openings for these wires are smaller, that's why I recommended paper clips. But if you can get the test light in there, that works too. Try the down side first, should be terminal 9, red/green wire.
Have someone operate the master switch. It should light in the down(non auto) position.

Then try terminal 8, red/black wire. It should light when the master switch is in the UP position. If both of these work, you have a bad switch!

:couch2:
 
Terminal 9 worked fine. Terminal 8 did not, I couldn't get the test light to light when I pushed the master switch down.
 
segafan1989 said:
Terminal 9 worked fine. Terminal 8 did not, I couldn't get the test light to light when I pushed the master switch down.
Click to expand...


T8 should light when you push UP, not DOWN on the master.

OOPS. I was late. Had to look at the diagram. I'll go back to the popcorn.
 
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I get no light on T8 in either position (up or down). I get a light on T9 in the down position only. I am positive I have a good connection with the test light.
 
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