Master Window Switch Problem

I get no light on T8 in either position (up or down). I get a light on T9 in the down position only. I am positive I have a good connection with the test light.
 
IBallEngineer said:
Happy to have you along!:snacker:

I'm pretty sure this is going to be a slam dunk, unless he isn't getting a signal from the master switch.





:couch2:
Click to expand...

...at which point it is a question of which door to body harness has the break, probably driver, since it is used more.
 
segafan1989 said:
I get no light on T8 in either position (up or down). I get a light on T9 in the down position only. I am positive I have a good connection with the test light.
Click to expand...

All right, well that is in line with your symptom. You can go down from the master, but not up. Correct me if I got that wrong!

T8 is the UP signal from the master switch. We will have to check the connection at the A pillars to see if that is where the problem is. But first!

Let's confirm the RF door window switch is good, can you jumper terminal 7 to terminal 8, momentarily(2 seconds). That should make your RF window go UP!

If it does, we can officially rule out the switch!

:couch2:
 
So which pins should I test on the master switch for the passenger window? If I get no power at the switch on the passenger door, could it be possible that the MS is not sending power from it's switch?
 
segafan1989 said:
So which pins should I test on the master switch for the passenger window? If I get no power at the switch on the passenger door, could it be possible that the MS is not sending power from it's switch?
Click to expand...

The Terminal is #7 on the MS. Yes it's possible it is not sending the signal to the window switch, but you said you swapped it. And it is HIGHLY unlikely that two MS's had the same failure. Not impossible, improbable.

After you do the jumper, we can check the master!

:couch2:
 
At the master switch, we want to see T7 light the test light with the switch in the UP position.

You can also check T8 in the down position, but it already works so we wouldn't expect a failure.
 
segafan1989 said:
On the MS, T7 does light with the switch in the UP position
Click to expand...

Good news, you don't have to buy a Master switch!

Bad news, we have an open circuit between the two front door switches.

We need to isolate one connector at a time. We'll start on the left side, because as thedurk said, it's the most used.

Connector 1F1(18 pin connector), located in the left front kick panel. You'll need to be able to get to that connector and find terminal 8.

With the switch in the UP position!

We need to test at both sides of the connector, door side first, if it lights, check the car side. Same Red wire!

:couch2:
 
If you get no light at the connector, the open is in the door or the passage to the kick panel. We'll address that when you get closer!
 
I've got to pause for tonight fellas. I appreciate the help so far. You folks are awesome!

I'll pick up on Friday @ 6pm PST and test that connector.
 
I do apologize for not getting on when I said I would guys. Please bear with me as I have had connectivity problems all day and to make the situation more fun, I had to get my front passenger tire replaced because I noticed a quarter size chunk of sidewall missing. It's too dark to do anything now and tomorrow I have a full day so I won't be able to continue until Sunday at 12:00pm PST.

Thank you again for helping me and your patience. Durk...much love for the pdf, you rock!
 
Looking at the diagram that Durk provided, the pin for the passenger window is actually #9? The reason I say that is because when I put the test light on #8, the door locks engage. When I put it on #9, I get no light but the window now moves as it should and it seems that the problem is fixed...huh? All I did was unplug and replug the connector from its base.
 
segafan1989 said:
Looking at the diagram that Durk provided, the pin for the passenger window is actually #9? The reason I say that is because when I put the test light on #8, the door locks engage. When I put it on #9, I get no light but the window now moves as it should and it seems that the problem is fixed...huh? All I did was unplug and replug the connector from its base.
Click to expand...

I show that reversed, T9 as the door locks, and T8 as the window up.

So if you operate the MS the RF window goes up and down normally?

If so, you found the open, right there at the connector.

:popcorn:
 
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