Master Window Switch Problem

It looks like that was the problem. I think the connector was loose from the base. All is working as it should now. Many, many thanks go to both of you fine folks for helping me out! I really appreciate it! You guys rock! Have a fantastic Sunday!
 
segafan1989 said:
It looks like that was the problem. I think the connector was loose from the base. All is working as it should now. Many, many thanks go to both of you fine folks for helping me out! I really appreciate it! You guys rock! Have a fantastic Sunday!
Click to expand...

You bet!

:couch2:
 
2000 Limited - How to test master power switch

I know this is an old thread but I have a similar problem I'd love to get some help with. In my case, it's the driver window on the master power switch that doesn't work, up or down. All other buttons on the switch operate normally.

I'd like to be able to narrow down my problem before just replacing parts.

Thanks!
2000 Limited
 
bmcgrew said:
I know this is an old thread but I have a similar problem I'd love to get some help with. In my case, it's the driver window on the master power switch that doesn't work, up or down. All other buttons on the switch operate normally.

I'd like to be able to narrow down my problem before just replacing parts.

Thanks!
2000 Limited
Click to expand...

OK I will try to help. Are you capable of following along like the guy did in this post? If you have a test light or a multimeter and can use it, this shouldn't be too bad. Read through this post so you get an idea how we will trouble shoot it, it's time intensive going back and forth, but not very difficult. Please keep in mind I teach High School Auto Shop M-F so I am totally slammed with distance learning preparation and I'm building an overland trailer in my spare time(what spare time). But I love this shit and my buddy El Durko [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] will most certainly play along. I'll try to engage as often as possible, be sure to mention me with the @ sign so I get notified. Otherwise I may forget... getting old sucks.
 
Because the LF door doesn't need to run a signal through the door jamb, this should be fairly straight forward. If you have access to the terminals on the back of the master switch, you can check for power at Terminal 1 with the window switch in the up position, NOT AUTO, just up. And in that same switch position, you should have ground at Terminal 2 of the master switch. Then with the switch in the down position, the power and ground should invert at T1 and T2 so you have ground at T1 and Power at T2. If this checks out the problem is in the motor or wires to the motor, if it doesn't, the Master switch is faulty.
 
I appreciate this [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] & [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION], you guys are awesome.

I'm the technology director for a k-12 public school so I'm very familiar with the overload we are currently experiencing! I'll be working on this over the weekend to fit it into my schedule.

So I need to test T1 & T2 first as described by [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION]. Looking at the pdf that [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] provided, it looks like the wires I need for the drivers side window switch are T1=LG (light green) and T2=L-Y (light blue/yellow maybe)??
 
You got the colors correct, if you flip the switch over while you test, it should be very easy. Good luck and be sure to let us know what you find!
 
Ok, no school today due to a problem with the city sewer. (Can't make up that kind of stuff). So I had some time to test, and here are the results.

Using info from the previous post in this thread, I tested the passenger window first at the master switch with a test light.

Passenger window switch in the Master
T8 (red/black) - Had power in the UP position
T9 (red/green) - Had power in the DOWN position

Driver window switch in the Master
T1 (light green) - No power in the Up position
T2 (light blue/yellow) - No power in the Down position
** No power up or down at T1 & T2 **

So looking like a master switch then based on my teachers' guidance [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] and [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

Is that the conclusion?

Thanks guys.
 
bmcgrew said:
Ok, no school today due to a problem with the city sewer. (Can't make up that kind of stuff). So I had some time to test, and here are the results.

Using info from the previous post in this thread, I tested the passenger window first at the master switch with a test light.

Passenger window switch in the Master
T8 (red/black) - Had power in the UP position
T9 (red/green) - Had power in the DOWN position

Driver window switch in the Master
T1 (light green) - No power in the Up position
T2 (light blue/yellow) - No power in the Down position
** No power up or down at T1 & T2 **

So looking like a master switch then based on my teachers' guidance [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] and [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

Is that the conclusion?

Thanks guys.
Click to expand...

That's pretty much it. Since you tested T8 and T9, we can assume that the switch has power at T10 and ground at T4. It is probably overkill but I would confirm that T1 and T2 have ground when the opposite "should" have power. I have this love hate relationship with grounds. Then yes, the master switch is your huckleberry.

I hope you come up with something that challenges you, and [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] so he has something to do!
 
IBallEngineer said:
That's pretty much it. Since you tested T8 and T9, we can assume that the switch has power at T10 and ground at T4. It is probably overkill but I would confirm that T1 and T2 have ground when the opposite "should" have power. I have this love hate relationship with grounds. Then yes, the master switch is your huckleberry.

I hope you come up with something that challenges you, and [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] so he has something to do!
Click to expand...

Ok, I tried to test the ground for T1 and T2, but they both are permanently grounded. They show to be ground in the neutral position, up & down position.

Just to make sure I was doing it correctly, I test ground at T8 & T9 in their 'opposite' switch positions, and they performed correctly, so I think I did the test right.
 
I read through this thread and noticed how helpful [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] and [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] were for the 2 other members that had power window issues. I have a 2000 4runner 2.7l 4 banger and have a problem. NONE of my windows roll down or up. WINDOW LOCKS..only work with my key fob from aftermarket alarm system I put in a year ago. This issue came about a month ago. My connection at the master switch kept coming loose and I would pop it out of the bezel...reconnect then back to business. Last time I had to do this...I was not successful. I even was able to get it to click in all the way. Long story short. I just popped in a master switch from Ebay...no luck...time to get back to testing wires. I do not have a diagram so I'm trying to use some sense...but you see why where that got me. Any help/direction would be appreciated. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 
OK I am out of practice, lost my first attempt at a reply. 9 weeks of school left, 8 months and 13K into an off road trailer build and trying to get the 9th graders to understand a torque converter, but hey I love a challenge. Start by down loading the PDF El Durko posted at the top of page 4 of this thread. Then verify the 30A power fuse/breaker is good. Probably is because you said the locks work, but you need to confirm this. [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] is retired so he may reply sooner if he hasn't died, or moved to South America but I'll do what I can to get right back to you. Check the fuse and post what you found, then we can move the to the master switch power points. Hopefully you have a good test light or a multi meter, if not, get one.

:couch2:
 
I've just moved into a new house, I have a sick diff on my 4Runner and my daughter is visiting from Brazil. I've pretty much got more than I can handle right now. I will try and look at this if I get some downtime, but no promises.
 
Well at least you aren't dead! I am dealing with my son's 3rd gen as the transfer case chain is flopping around like a fish on the deck. Did I mention I'm prepping my motor home to sell? Or the 61 Ford I'm helping my friend with? Or the 59 Chevy p/u diesel power project? Or the Fire Truck I'm converting to Battery electric? AND I'm installing 37" tires with b/locks on the cruiser, prepping my 91 DR350 to sell and building an aluminum roof rack for an LX460. What's one more time killer? Oh yeah, have to replace the pick up in my wife's Luna Guitar or she'll kill me.
 
Thanks [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] and [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] for the quick response. I was unsuccessful in downloading the diagram you mentioned. I'm using my mobile phone so I'll give it another try from my PC and see what happens.

Thanks for your response [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]! You definitely have a lot going on with the new house big project and visit with your daughter. Imhing I can take a look at that diagram so I can continue troubleshooting this issue...hopefully with some help from [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] I can figure it out.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 
bradley.carlen1993 said:
I read through this thread and noticed how helpful [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] and [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] were for the 2 other members that had power window issues. I have a 2000 4runner 2.7l 4 banger and have a problem. NONE of my windows roll down or up. WINDOW LOCKS..only work with my key fob from aftermarket alarm system I put in a year ago. This issue came about a month ago. My connection at the master switch kept coming loose and I would pop it out of the bezel...reconnect then back to business. Last time I had to do this...I was not successful. I even was able to get it to click in all the way. Long story short. I just popped in a master switch from Ebay...no luck...time to get back to testing wires. I do not have a diagram so I'm trying to use some sense...but you see why where that got me. Any help/direction would be appreciated. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I don't know how much I can help with diagnosing this, but I want to make sure your specific symptoms are clear to aid anyone who does try to help you. Based on your post, this is what I'm getting.

  • The individual windows switches at each door don't work.
  • The switches on the drivers door don't work for any of the windows.
  • Your window lock button on the drivers door doesn't work.
  • You have an aftermarket alarm with a key fob.
  • You can lock the windows from working with the key fob for the aftermarket alarm? How do you know this if the windows don't work?
  • The problem has been ongoing for a month, and during that time you found that you could remove the drivers door switches and reconnect a loose connection there and the windows would start to work again.
  • The above workaround no longer works, and you have replaced the master switch (I assume the entire switch panel on the drivers door?) which didn't solve anything.

Can you confirm, correct, or clarify the above list, and add any other symptoms I might have missed?
 
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