Master Window Switch Problem

[bradley.carlen1993]

[MENTION=291664]Skulking[/MENTION] Great question

To clarify...

NO switches work throughout the vehicle for power windows. Including driver side door switch.

POWER LOCK switches do not not. Only key fob

MASTER SWITCH was replaced via a used part from eBay. Could that be my problem? Not sure. Although possible. I'm not sure how to verify if the part actually works.

AFTERMARKET ALARM I did install an after market alarm. A basic VIPER system. I do not recall tapping into any wires related to the power window circuit. I'm going to look for the manual and upgrade and verify that.

As for the workaround...the issue of no switches working in the same fashion as I'm experiencing now started months ago after taking door panels off during a series of car audio projects. In my reassembly I could never get the master power switch harness to fully "click" into place. Must have been due to me working a little quick and not having much slack at that particular pigtail when reinstalling. So, from time to time I would have the situation I'm in now but would simply remove the master switch from the bezel and press the connector in a bit more and would be back in business.

*I have realized now that I can get the main harness to fully engage with the window switch.

To clarify...a month ago I had my usual problem, pryed off the switch and proceeded to me pressing that connector into the female receptacle and got the problem fixed for the drive home. Started up the vehicle a few moments later and headed to the bank drive thru where I could not roll my window down. My usual fix no longer worked for me at that point.




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[Skulking]

[MENTION=291664]Skulking[/MENTION] Great question

To clarify...

NO switches work throughout the vehicle for power windows. Including driver side door switch.

POWER LOCK switches do not not. Only key fob

MASTER SWITCH was replaced via a used part from eBay. Could that be my problem? Not sure. Although possible. I'm not sure how to verify if the part actually works.

AFTERMARKET ALARM I did install an after market alarm. A basic VIPER system. I do not recall tapping into any wires related to the power window circuit. I'm going to look for the manual and upgrade and verify that.

As for the workaround...the issue of no switches working in the same fashion as I'm experiencing now started months ago after taking door panels off during a series of car audio projects. In my reassembly I could never get the master power switch harness to fully "click" into place. Must have been due to me working a little quick and not having much slack at that particular pigtail when reinstalling. So, from time to time I would have the situation I'm in now but would simply remove the master switch from the bezel and press the connector in a bit more and would be back in business.

*I have realized now that I can get the main harness to fully engage with the window switch.

To clarify...a month ago I had my usual problem, pryed off the switch and proceeded to me pressing that connector into the female receptacle and got the problem fixed for the drive home. Started up the vehicle a few moments later and headed to the bank drive thru where I could not roll my window down. My usual fix no longer worked for me at that point.




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Based on what you're describing, the first thing I would do would be to check the wiring in the grommet passing from the body into the drivers door. It's not unusual for the wires to fatigue and break which can lead to all sorts of weird things. Timmy has a video showing how to deal with the rear hatch rather than the drivers door, but the idea is basically the same. If you don't want to open that up without checking, the wiring diagram you weren't able to download earlier does tell you which wires should have voltage under what conditions for troubleshooting, so you can confirm they aren't getting power first, but to me everything points to a broken wire in that grommet. You can also check the 30A Power fuse and the 10A ECU-IG fuse, but if either of those are blown you should be having bigger issues than just the windows and locks not working.

 

[bradley.carlen1993]

[MENTION=291664]Skulking[/MENTION] checking the wires in the grommet is next on my list. I have already checked both of those fuses you have mentioned and they check out fine. In my mind the issue lays somewhere in between and I thought the new switch could he an easy fix. WRONG. I was even thinking there could be a bad connection involving wires to the terminal points inside the connector to the main switch. I noticed the terminal that has the white/ black wire is discolored. I'm hoping when I get my hands on the diagram and get a look at the wires in the grommet I will have a direction to go in. Thanks for your input!


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[mgc555]

So which switch was bad?

Was it the master or passenger?