Mc1337sauce's (Modest) 1997 4Runner Build

[Mc1337sauce]

Well, I added a couple things to the 4Runner recently. First was a GReddy oil cap a few weeks ago - looks pretty sweet under the hood, and it's made in Japan, so you know it's awesome (plus it adds at least 15hp...lol). I got one of the last ones on closeout for $30, which is an awesome deal IMO.







I also installed the sport skid plate from the 2001-2004 Tacoma on my truck yesterday. It is a straight bolt-on for 1996-1998 4Runners, but for 1999-2002, you need to make some bracket extensions to accommodate the fat-lip bumper. I got it from toyotapartszone.com for about $100 - not too bad IMO.





Next mod will be a URD O2 Calibrator to allow for proper fuel mapping with my turbo setup. Then I might increase the boost to 6 or 7psi (if I can keep the AFRs down) and see how she runs.

 

[Mc1337sauce]

Finally finished the installation of the Hilux Surf emblem on my runner today. It was a bit more involved than I originally planned, as I ended up needing to get the license plate trim piece (rear garnish in official Toyota terms) repainted. Here is what it looked like once I got the 4Runner emblem off.



The removal of the trim piece was very simple; I just had to take off the plastic panel inside the tailgate, the metal panel under that, and then was able to get around the rear window mechanism to take off the trim piece. Anyway, pictured below is the part number for the emblem if you are interested in doing the same mod, as well as pictures of the finished product. Also, for those with 96-98 4Runners that have the emblem installed on the license plate trim like mine, keep in mind that the 4Runner emblem has pegs that insert into holes in the trim piece, but the Hilux Surf emblem does cover those holes up perfectly.

Part Number


Close up shot


Shot from the side


Straight on from the back

 

[bangin6]

Next mod will be a URD O2 Calibrator to allow for proper fuel mapping with my turbo setup. Then I might increase the boost to 6 or 7psi (if I can keep the AFRs down) and see how she runs.[/QUOTE]


Did you ever get the o2 calibrator? No upgraded or hot-wired fuel pump, adjustable regulator or larger injectors? I'm seriously contemplating a setup very much like yours for my 97 3rz/5 speed 2wd 4runner.

 

[Mc1337sauce]

Next mod will be a URD O2 Calibrator to allow for proper fuel mapping with my turbo setup. Then I might increase the boost to 6 or 7psi (if I can keep the AFRs down) and see how she runs.

Did you ever get the o2 calibrator? No upgraded or hot-wired fuel pump, adjustable regulator or larger injectors? I'm seriously contemplating a setup very much like yours for my 97 3rz/5 speed 2wd 4runner.

Nope, never got the O2 calibrator since the factory ECU has seemed to tune itself to the turbo after putting a few hundred miles on the truck (I rarely drive it, so it took a while for that to happen). The only time it ever runs remotely lean is when going WOT from a dead stop, but it's only until about 3-4K RPM; from there, the ECU goes open loop until you let off/start cruising. While it's still running closed loop, there is no ping/detonation, even with the high intake temps (living in Arizona, ambient is 105-115 F during the summer...pretty bad for a turbo vehicle).

My fuel system is completely stock as well. I'm running the brown 305cc injectors that came stock with my truck; if you have the same injectors, you should be good to go there, but if not, you might want to upgrade to some 315cc pink tops; there are some on sale on CustomTacos last I checked. I'm still on the stock pump, as it still provides plenty of fuel pressure (Walbro 255 is what you want if your stock pump is weak - you can get that from URD), and the stock fuel pressure regulator is actually an FMU, so it raises fuel pressure with boost; unless you're running a super high-end turbo setup, the stock regulator is fine. I am currently running 5psi of boost and my open loop AFR is right around 11-11.5, so I would be comfortable with running about 7psi without changing anything if it weren't so hot here in Arizona.

I have numerous YouTube videos detailing the install process of the turbo kit here, including everything I used/needed that was not included, so definitely watch those if you are interested.

The only thing I would advise you do differently is have the BOV recirculated (KO Racing offers this option) to have the truck drive completely like stock, as with the it vented to atmosphere, the truck comes close to stalling when snapping the throttle shut while driving at low speeds (i.e. in a neighborhood). This is not difficult to drive around, and I personally prefer the BOV being vented to atmosphere, but stalling could occur, so if you want to avoid that issue completely, just recirculate the it.

If you have any more questions, just let me know and I will answer them to the best of my ability.

 

[bangin6]

Thanks for the fast response. I actually found the videos on YouTube and watched them all already. I've been lurking on the yota forums for a bit now and figured why not join and be able to ask ?'s? I'm sure I'm not the first to use your technical knowledge on the work previously performed. Again, thanks for the detailed build.

Dan

 

[Mc1337sauce]

Small update. Finished up a bit of work on the truck this week. I got tired of the VTA BOV really quick, as it caused the truck to stall when braking abruptly in heavy traffic, so I converted my TiAL Q to a QR. It runs 100% better now, and has better pickup after venting, too. I had to get pretty creative with the mounting for the recirculation line to the pre-turbo intake elbow by punching a 15/16" hole in the 45° elbow, followed by using RTV to secure a 1" aircraft ducting fitting on the inside and a cut-down 1.25" fitting outside for the BOV to recirculate through.

I also wrapped the MAF wiring harness that sits above the downpipe with a DEI heat shield, as the engine bay gets quite hot and the last thing I want to do is melt important wires.

Of course, here are some obligatory pics (and YouTube video) of the new setup.







Next up is the under-hood heat/noise barrier that came on the 99-02 trucks from the factory, and then hopefully a Supra/IS300 steering wheel if I can find one that is decently priced.

 

[THatfield]

Finally! I've found the man/men behind the amazing youtube tutorial videos. You and your dad do great work, and are very thorough. Kudos to you both. Very clean 4Runner, and nice work on that turbocharger installation.

Keep making videos, I enjoy the tutorials!

 

[Mc1337sauce]

Finally! I've found the man/men behind the amazing youtube tutorial videos. You and your dad do great work, and are very thorough. Kudos to you both. Very clean 4Runner, and nice work on that turbocharger installation.

Keep making videos, I enjoy the tutorials!

Thank you for the kind words!

Both of us are perfectionists (part of being German, I suppose), so everything we do has to be top-notch and up to our standards, as you have seen in the videos. I don't know what kind of tutorials we will have in the future for the 4Runner, but I'm sure we will do more, so stay tuned!

I also did a bit more to the truck this past weekend - I installed some DEI Reflect-A-Gold heat shielding to help reflect some of the heat away from the hood (protects paint). I would have liked to have used the OEM Toyota under-hood blanket, but it would have been too thick, as the BOV sits only a few mm away from the hood.

Of course, here's a pic (albeit a bit of a bad one, but there's not really much to see, just on the lower left of the hood):

 

[T4R2014]

You could also trim the OEM piece to fit better. BTW, where in Germany?

 

[Mc1337sauce]

You could also trim the OEM piece to fit better. BTW, where in Germany?

I've trimmed the hood mat to clear things on other vehicles, and the black cloth that covers the foam material underneath always starts peeling away rather quickly. I would also rather not cut into a piece that costs about $400 (incl. shipping). The DEI product GREATLY reduces the temperatures on top of the hood where the turbo is - I'm pretty impressed, and that's hard to do.

To answer your question, my mom is from Mannheim, and my dad does business all over Germany, as well as other European countries.

 

[Mc1337sauce]

Small update here. Haven't really done much in the way of mods except for clear corners. I have nearly 10k miles on the turbo kit, and not one hiccup after I got the initial few kinks worked out. As usual, if you have any questions about the setup, just ask.

A few weeks ago I undertook the rather laborious task of cleaning out my headlights - they came out very nice IMO. I also had my EFI relay take a crap last week - truck would run fine but when I put my foot into it, would go full lean for a sec (fuel cut), and then would kick back in. When the relay really started acting up, the truck would die at a stop while in gear. Replaced with OEM Toyota relay (Denso equivalent didn't work for whatever reason - truck would run full rich), and HOLY CRAP the truck runs so much better. I always thought it ran fairly smoothly, but DAMN, with the new relay, it idles and accelerates like butter, and the ECU responds significantly faster with regard to fueling (i.e. richens the A/F mixture faster when under throttle).

Moral of the story: replace your EFI relay. Seriously, if you haven't done it before or if you don't know if it has been done in the past, it's only $20 and made a world of difference in how my truck runs.

Anyway, here's a pic of the clear corners and the headlights after I cleaned them.


I have a few other small things in the mail/pending install, so I should have another little update in the next few days.

 

[jeff88]

How did you figure out it was your EFI relay? Also, part #?

 

[Mc1337sauce]

How did you figure out it was your EFI relay? Also, part #?

My dad's old T-100 with the same engine had the same issue, but his went on to the point that at least once each time the truck was driven, it would just die while driving. It took forever for us to figure that one out. Our first assumption when my truck started having a similar problem was either EFI relay or fuel pump (@ over 170k miles, its not uncommon for either to fail).

We made a video on the relay replacement, it's embedded below. The Toyota P/N is 90080-87010.

 

[Mc1337sauce]

Another small update. Last week I managed to get my hands on a set of OEM J-spec marker lights through the classifieds here (thank you [MENTION=30949]SIKHILUXSURF[/MENTION]!). Got them installed last weekend, and they're such an improvement over the cheap aftermarket clear corners.

Here's a side by side comparing your typical aftermarket light to the OEM JDM light. Notice the difference in clarity and how straight the lines are on the OEM one.


And how the truck looks now.


This is one of my favorite exterior mods to date; feels good having all of my lights back to OEM now.

 

[Saintnick]

Beautiful. Made me cry looking at the engine bay.

 

[Mc1337sauce]

Beautiful. Made me cry looking at the engine bay.

Thanks man, I try my best to keep it pristine.

 

[scrapper]

My dad's old T-100 with the same engine had the same issue, but his went on to the point that at least once each time the truck was driven, it would just die while driving. It took forever for us to figure that one out. Our first assumption when my truck started having a similar problem was either EFI relay or fuel pump (@ over 170k miles, its not uncommon for either to fail).

We made a video on the relay replacement, it's embedded below. The Toyota P/N is 90080-87010.

The T100 is one of my favorites.


Great thread, man. The engine looks loved. As it should be.

 

[jeff88]

Love those new corner lights! Can't wait to find me a pair!

 

[Mc1337sauce]

The T100 is one of my favorites.


Great thread, man. The engine looks loved. As it should be.

The T100 was great, but it was my dad's DD when he worked in Utah and even though he washed it every few days, its frame still rusted to the point where it was becoming difficult to work on and the body was beginning to show signs of decay as well, so he sold it (to the owner of the Nissan dealer where he bought his X, actually).

I love everything about my truck, though there are still some improvements that I'm planning. It's hard to find most of the parts that I want, though, so it's basically a waiting game at this point, like it was for the corner lights.

Love those new corner lights! Can't wait to find me a pair!

Thanks man, I love them too! There was another set that I saw for sale in the classifieds right after I bought mine, but they may have sold already.

 

[Mc1337sauce]

Recently, my truck was having issues stuttering while driving and yesterday when I started it, it was not running on all cylinders. I had been suspecting weak spark for the stuttering, and finally got some new spark plug wires installed yesterday. Up to this point, I was running the original Sumitomo wires from 1997, but this time, went for NGK ones - Amazon is definitely the place to get them, too, as they are half the price of auto parts stores there. The fit was great with the NGK wires, the truck starts noticeably faster now, and so far there has been no stuttering, though I only got to take it on a 15 minute test drive last night.

The other upside to new wires: matching your engine bay theme.