Mini Morimoto RetroQuik Bi-Xenon Projector Swap for '06+ Headlamps

[ChaosStarter]

are you referring to these? i have one sitting on my desk. OEM rx350 projector is available for sale

The one I have is a non-AFS projector which are a little easier to use/install. That's the ones I'd prefer to use. Thanks anyway though!!

 

[gaterose]

just an fyi: My lights didn't power on using the stock Toyota wiring, so hopefully it's just a matter of using the relay harness.

Did you try flipping the plug upside down when you plugged it into the ballast?

 

[birdmann]

Mods please delete.

 

[sr3tlaw]

The price of $150 is only for the projectors. Add the options below and the price will increase.



The bulbs and ballasts have to match:
3Five with 3Five
or
5Five with 5Five/5Five long
I would avoid mixing matching those two.

As for the difference between 3Five and 5Five, I'm uncertain, but read through this thread. There is a lot of information in there. It also has information on bulb color too. There is a lot of debate between 5000K and 4300K being pure white. The jury's still out...

I'm running 3Five 4300K and am happy with it.



Yes, it's required.



Nope, not required. Just bake your headlight to reseal it and you'll be good to go.

As a helpful hint: Mount the projector in the assembly, then mount the headlamp in the car BEFORE you reseal it. If you have to make adjustments, it's easier with the headlamps still open.

This kind gentelmen helped me install my dual battery setup. I saw his setup and its the real deal.

 

[mightyduck]

I am very interested in pulling the trigger on the retro-quick complete kit. I am hoping that someone can help me with exactly what I should be ordering for my 2006.

When you select the kit it shows at $150. Is this only for the DS2 projector and the metal bracket with screws and such? Is this all I need?

Retro-Quik: Toyota 4Runner (06-09) - Complete Retrofit Kits

I am assuming not so then I am hoping to get some help with the rest of the options.

Ballasts: 3Five, 3Five long, or 5Five? Not much of a price difference so why would I not go for the 5Five?

Bulbs: I guess it depends on my ballasts and color preference. Although they have a number of very expensive options too. I was thinking 5000k as I have read this is the most pure white looking. Any advise here would be much appreciated?

Harness: Only one option here but I just want to confirm that this is a requirement.

Re-sealing glue: Necessary? I thought you can just back the headlight and it will re-seal with the existing glue? or is this for something else?

Anyways, I feel like a bit of a noob here but I have a feeling that I am not the only one with these questions and it looks like some of you have obviously done this before.

Why do the more expensive (Philips and Osram) bulbs not specify the watts and or color temp? Are they all 55w?

 

[Code2]

nice but the cut off looks as it its rotated up on the drivers side

 

[Code2]

Why do the more expensive (Philips and Osram) bulbs not specify the watts and or color temp? Are they all 55w?

some are 35w the more expensive ones are 55w and cost a ton of money

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Thanks [MENTION=50591]gaterose[/MENTION] for this writeup, I wanted to add my experiences and clarify the things that I got confused with and add some more pictures.

First thing was the screws that came with the bracket from TRS to screw the projector to the bracket were not long enough and I had to use longer screws of my own, no biggie, but needed mentioning.

As mentioned, you do have to drill a hole for the actuator trigger wires to be run through, my kit came with a 9006 plug that slips over the wires.

Since I already had the H11 pnp kit from Morimoto I got a set of the AMP to d2s plugs so that I could keep my current ballasts. I also got a set of 9005 to 9006 x 2 splitters for the high beams

I also started out with the wrong TRS installation guide, so I was a bit confused, but I took a pic to show the order of how things go together on the back of the projector. First I put the big silicone gasket on the projector threads

Then this is the order of the pieces that hold the bulb together. These pieces go on from left to right, the C clip "spring" is essential to hold the bulb in place

So it goes the big silicone ring, then the 3 pronged ring, then the small silicone ring

Then the open ring that screws on and straight down.

Then the bulb goes on, and the C clamp goes on top of it before screwing down the bulb holder

The bulb holder grabs the C ring and holds the bulb in place.

Then you just replace the gaskets, clip the d2s harness on, and you're done.

 

[viggen337]

Then you just replace the gaskets, clip the d2s harness on, and you're done.

I am currently in the process of doing this retrofit on a new pair of '06-'09 headlights, and I have been having trouble getting a good seal around my D2S connector. I noticed in your last picture that the headlight isn't totally sealed around your D2S connector. Is that the way you left it? I assumed I would get dust and/or moisture in the headlights leaving it like that. Did I miss something?

 

[paperchasin]

Im considering this retrofit myself...would love to hear from anyone else that's done this and possibly address the issue regarding the rear of the headlight gasket.

 

[bdubbin]

Im considering this retrofit myself...would love to hear from anyone else that's done this and possibly address the issue regarding the rear of the headlight gasket.

I just did this install with a lot of help from a fellow lighting enthusiast.

First thanks to all who have contributed to this post... it's helped me.

I have 2 problems; one of which can be solved. The other I'm asking the forum for suggestions on.

Problem 1 can be solved easily I think. It's the sealing of the headlight where the connector attaches to the bulb (as the oem grommet doesn't fit). I plan to buy some:

90mm Rubber Housing Caps.

Problem 2. My projectors don't line up properly with the shroud. I don't know why. Everything bolted together cleanly. We used the projector plate supplied with the kit to attach the new projector to the housing. It should have been simple, and it was, except for the fact the projector doesn't line up with the shroud.

Mounted for testing purposes:

All sealed but somehow the projector doesn't align with the shroud:

My lighting doesn't appear to be affected.

Ideas?

 

[paperchasin]

^^^ Wow sorry to hear that. First, it sucks to have to buy extra parts to install the retrofit properly. IMO, TRS should include those rubber grommets in their kit. Either that or recommend an igniter/ballast setup that would work. If they did this, I would've bought the kit. But I did not want to buy the kit with any uncertainty on completing the installation. When I asked TRS about this issue, they didn't seem to have a simple solution and I was left not feeling comfortable with the purchase.

I'd definitely call and ask about the alignment issue tho....that definitely does not look right. Is it possible that the inner housing/reflector piece was installed incorrectly? Please keep us posted.

 

[riceandpho]

I think if you took the truck out and realign the lights. It should solve it, I just live with my retrofit, it's not as perfect if you stare at the headlights, but I don't care that much when it's dead set on the alignment and it's not hurting my output. My output is way better than the md2s when I started.

 

[yosh2000]

Is it possible that the inner housing/reflector piece was installed incorrectly?

this or not having the head lights aligned properly yet are most likely your issue

 

[CPT2nr88]

I had the same issue with my retrofit from TRS. I bought their complete 4runner retrofit kit too and I was very upset when it didn't include everything needed to complete the retrofit. Luckily it was on a spare set of headlights so I was still able to drive my 4runner. At first TRS tried to claim that no one else had ever had the issue. But after several emails they finally agreed to ship me the rubber grommet free of charge. Mine also didn't align perfectly with the holes in the headlight, but that was fixed when I went to aim them. it still isn't 100% but you really really have to look to notice.

Also on a side note I really wasn't impressed with the quality of the cutoff line. there is almost no purple in the left cut offline and the right only has a very small section. But after dealing with the pain of trying to get the grommets from them, I didn't want to go through the hassle again plus they were already installed in the car. Anyone else not happy with their cutoffs?

 

[yosh2000]

It's always a good idea to fire up any projector to ensure you are good with the cutoff before install. Many people do shield mods and lense spacing to get whatever out of the projecotr they want (color, sharper cutoff, cutoff style, Hotspot tweeking, etc).

Concerning aligning perfectly in the shroud, do any projecoters really do that? I have been looking at cars with oem projectors and they are not always perfectly centered.

 

[paperchasin]

Concerning aligning perfectly in the shroud, do any projecoters really do that? I have been looking at cars with oem projectors and they are not always perfectly centered.

My factory projectors are aligned pretty good with the inner housing. Cut-off is as others say... surprisingly crisp. Good enough that ever since throwing in some plug and play HIDs, have not even considered the TRS retrofits again.

 

[yosh2000]

My factory projectors are aligned pretty good with the inner housing.

right, pretty good, but not perfect as it appeared CPT2nr88 was wanting. We agree.

 

[paperchasin]

right, pretty good, but not perfect as it appeared CPT2nr88 was wanting. We agree.

Yes we agree. I have not seen pictures of CPT2nr88's headlights, so I cannot comment on them. But the alignment in the picture provided by bdubbin is unacceptable IMO. I hope it aligns itself better once he properly aims the headlights (assuming this hasn't been done yet).

 

[yosh2000]

i would also agree, but posting a shroud alignment picture before the headlight is properly mounted means nothing. when i used to do retros, the reflector bowl would look pretty bad until i properly aimed the headlight. once aimed, everything looked like it did OEM.