Mini Morimoto RetroQuik Bi-Xenon Projector Swap for '06+ Headlamps

Amazing! Thank you. What size halo did you get? The 80MM?

No, 80mm would be too small...the one I used is 90mm. It just fits around the shroud perfectly. Now I have to figure out how to power it as a DRL and turn signal. Our 4Runners use the turn signal bulb as a DRL also. I would rather use the halo as the DRL...it is nice and bright, and use the turn signal bulb as a side marker light only when headlights are on.. I'm working on a solution.
 
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No, 80mm would be too small...the one I used is 90mm. It just fits around the shroud perfectly. Now I have to figure out how to power it as a DRL and turn signal. Our 4Runners use the turn signal bulb as a DRL also. I would rather use the halo as the DRL...it is nice and bright, and use the turn signal bulb as a side marker light only when headlights are on.. I'm working on a solution.

Do you think the 100mm would work? The 90mm is sold out atm. They look pretty close to the inner bezel on your pictures. It looks like there's another 5mm on each side for a widder ring.
 
Do you think the 100mm would work? The 90mm is sold out atm. They look pretty close to the inner bezel on your pictures. It looks like there's another 5mm on each side for a widder ring.

I got mine from Amazon. The inner diameter is 80mm and outer is 90mm for the 90mm rings. The 100mm rings are 90mm-100mm, inner and outer. They also offer a 95mm ring which is 85-95mm. You should measure to make sure the larger ring will fit without hitting the protrusion for the high beam. I can't remember what the exact measurement was there. The 90mm fit although they are close to the raised bezel as you mentioned.
I just looked on Amazon and they have 6 units of 90mm in stock
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DT7MAGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
 
[MENTION=115400]TheTurboMRT[/MENTION] any under construction pics of the the D2S 4.0 retro into the GX?
 
Almost done

The lights are back on and working, except for the halos. I decided to buy new 1157 bulb holders for the DRL and blinkers. I think I can get the wiring to the point that the amber side light only come on with the parking and headlights. I will use the halos as the new DRL, and they will switch to amber for turn signals. Just waiting for the new bulb holders to arrive.
Here's a nighttime pic of the new projectors at work
 
[MENTION=115400]TheTurboMRT[/MENTION] any under construction pics of the the D2S 4.0 retro into the GX?

I have a couple rough ones, but I have to tear them back apart this weekend to shim them. I can't get them aimed far enough down to not blind others. I'll take more pictures then and post. It's definitely not as clean of an install as the 4runner
 
Finished my headlight mod

I finally finished wiring my headlights and Halo lights. Now, I use my new Halo lights as DRL's. The original DRL (which was an amber 1156 socket and bulb) has been altered to act solely as a turn signal and parking light. To accomplish this I cut the original 1156 socket out of the circuit on each headlight. I then substituted an 1157 socket and bulb in it's place. By doing this, I now have a traditional parking light/turn signal function from that location. I also retain the original parking light below it.

Since I didn't want the computer to control the DRL's any longer I went under the dash and cut the light green wire with red stripe, as per this DRL mod write-up... Toyota 4Runner DRL Mod. This disables the DRL control from the computer and the red wire at the headlight now only acts as a feed for the turn signal on each particular side.
You can see the splices and installation of the new 1157 socket in this pic.


Here is the pic with the cuts/splices labeled to, hopefully, make the mod more clear to you.

As you can see, I used the green lead on each side as a power supply for the low voltage side of the new 1157 socket and bulb. That illuminates the 1157 bulb whenever the parking lights or headlights are on. The original red wire from the old 1156 socket now is spliced to the blue lead on the new 1157 socket and functions as a turn signal only, since the DRL computer control wire was cut previously. The bulb no longer lights up when the DRL's are on. The DRL function is now solely provided by the new Halos, and in my next post I will show how I wired those.
 
Wiring my Halo lights as Daytime Running Lights

Since I now have the computer control of my DRL's disabled, I need a way to energize the Halo lights as the new DRLs. To accomplish this I used a relay. relays come in various flavors. The ideal relay would be a normally closed relay, which means the circuit attached to it's leads is on until the relay is energized, then the circuit opens, or shuts off. I didn't have a normally closed relay in my garage, so I used a 5 pin relay that I had lying around. Simply ignore the 87 pin and put some heat shrink on it to isolate it because it is not used for our purposes. You can see in the diagram that follows that this relay can be wired either normally open, or normally closed.


By using pin 30 and 87a, I have a normally closed relay. When the coil leads (85 and 86) are energized the relay opens and shuts off that circuit. I took 12 volt power to pin 86 from the green parking light wire, and the 85 pin is ground. When the parking lights or headlights are turned on, the relay energizes and suts off power to the DRLs. All I had to do was supply power to terminal 30 whenever the car ignition was turned on. I tapped into the cig. circuit under the dash using an "add a circuit" wire. I also installed a lighted on/off switch after the fuse. This allows me to cut the DRL lights off whenever I want to.



This power feeds the red wire on my Halos...which light the white LEDs, thus becoming DRLs. Since my Halos are switchback type, I took power from the turn signal wire (red wire on 1157 socket) and tied it to the Halo yellow lead. This now operates the Halos as turn signals, whether the DRL's are on or off.
You can see the Red, Black (ground) and yellow leads from the Halos in this pic.

I know it might be confusing. I forgot to take pics of the relay wired up, but I did a hand schematic to kind of give you and idea of how the circuit operates.
 
Video of Halo and turn signals

Here is a short video showing the functions I now have. You can see the control I have over my Halo's and my DRLs and turn signals. Hope this helps someone.

https://youtu.be/U-a7nRsmQ7E

Check my build thread for my other mods to my 2007 4Runner
 
I just did another new retrofit on the 4th Gen.

Morimoto D2S V4.0 with CBI bulbs. I reused the brackets that came with the new headlight projectors. I used tin snips to cut out the center and re-drilled new holes to match the 4.0.

The light output of these is amazing. Worth the 8 hours to retrofit.

My old custom headlights with Morimoto D2S 2.0 with CBI bulbs are up for sale. PM me if interested.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/31383353@N04/shares/21B5YW
 

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I just did another new retrofit on the 4th Gen.

Morimoto D2S V4.0 with CBI bulbs. I reused the brackets that came with the new headlight projectors. I used tin snips to cut out the center and re-drilled new holes to match the 4.0.

The light output of these is amazing. Worth the 8 hours to retrofit.

My old custom headlights with Morimoto D2S 2.0 with CBI bulbs are up for sale. PM me if interested.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/31383353@N04/shares/21B5YW

good thing you dumped the 2.0 to the 4.0, now do you guys believe me when i said the 2.0 was not that good. hope you are doing a 3 inch drop at 25ft, pretty sure you are lifted kinda high. when i did my new suspension, i had to re aim my lights alot. pointed to the sky almost.
 
The 2.0's were still an improvement over the stock projectors - plus they were over 7 years old.

The 4.0's are noticeable wider of a beam. Luckily I retained the ability to adjust up and down, so yes, they are good to go.
 
I just ordered me some 06 projector headlights to upgrade from my 04. But can I get away with out using the drl harness? Bc I'm not rewiring all that mess right now because I'm going to keep what's in my original bumper. Only differ thing I'm trying to do is too out the projectors from the new headlights in place of some ap1 s2k projectors. But I do need the bottom body tabs that go under the headlights if anyone has a spare set sitting around?
 
I updated in a different thread. But I upgraded the acme d2s projectors to the d2s mini 4.0s. Should be much better. The color shift and low light output to the sides kinda sucked. Much better than stock projectors. But no where near as good as some quality projectors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Doing a retrofit is definitely the next item on my list of things to do. My only question is: How easy is it to actually make adjustments to the aim of the headlights? I don't have the largest of garages, and would need to drive somewhere to give myself 25 feet of distance that is flat.

I feel confident in my ability to do the actual retrofit, but I'm unclear as to the best way to achieve an ideal beam pattern/cutoff if I don't have the space to test them during the initial install.
 
Doing a retrofit is definitely the next item on my list of things to do. My only question is: How easy is it to actually make adjustments to the aim of the headlights? I don't have the largest of garages, and would need to drive somewhere to give myself 25 feet of distance that is flat.

I feel confident in my ability to do the actual retrofit, but I'm unclear as to the best way to achieve an ideal beam pattern/cutoff if I don't have the space to test them during the initial install.

Mark the wall in front of the car before you remove the old ones.
Do your retrofit
Reinstall without the clear plastic outer cover, and adjust the new projectors (not the headlight housing) as needed until they line up with your old marks (this will get you close). If you don't do this, the high beams will be way off from where they need to be once you adjust your housings to the new projectors
Then reinstall with the clear plastic covers on the lights, and you should be 90% to a good aim and you can drive to a good location for final aiming.
 
Mark the wall in front of the car before you remove the old ones.
Do your retrofit
Reinstall without the clear plastic outer cover, and adjust the new projectors (not the headlight housing) as needed until they line up with your old marks (this will get you close). If you don't do this, the high beams will be way off from where they need to be once you adjust your housings to the new projectors
Then reinstall with the clear plastic covers on the lights, and you should be 90% to a good aim and you can drive to a good location for final aiming.

Good to hear it's not overly complicated then. Thank you!
 
Here are the brackets I made up using the OEM projector plate. Easy. Measure 10 times and make sure it's centered in the plate and then drill your mounting holes to line up with the D2S 4.0 projectors. These are soooo much nicer than the Acme D2S projectors.

b6ed551405ddfbf4d1ffc64334fe2e26.jpg
165aae9dbea8751e34acefe8c323f746.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Alright, truth be told, I just don't have the time or desire to open up my oem lights and do the install, leveling, yaddi yadda.

Is there a good plug and play option for HID?
 
Alright, truth be told, I just don't have the time or desire to open up my oem lights and do the install, leveling, yaddi yadda.

Is there a good plug and play option for HID?

I just finished doing this mod. I have my previous retro (D2S 2.0 projectors and headlight's) for sale. The headlights are in good shape. You'd just need to buy the ballasts and wiring harness.
 

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