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Be_Original
New member
Timer to your microwave...
nytefog
Member
Looks like my Projecta dual batt voltage monitor on i got from Australia....
http://www.projecta.com.au/Products/PowerManagement/DualBatteryVoltMeter.aspx
..Because I couldn't find anything that exactly met my needs/wants that was mad in the USA.
To get off topic more ..Anyone use the IBS dual battery system vs. dirtparts.com dual battery kit? Anyone a alternator amperage output monitor?
http://www.projecta.com.au/Products/PowerManagement/DualBatteryVoltMeter.aspx
..Because I couldn't find anything that exactly met my needs/wants that was mad in the USA.
To get off topic more ..Anyone use the IBS dual battery system vs. dirtparts.com dual battery kit? Anyone a alternator amperage output monitor?
CookieRoe
Senior Member
That's really cool!
Sort of reminds me of this I found:
link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Land...BrJKGCDF%2F1sZJ706xMg%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
if link expires: type: Toyota Landcruiser 80 series Prado FJ Hilux 4runner 4WD Dual Battery Volt Meter
Sort of reminds me of this I found:
link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Land...BrJKGCDF%2F1sZJ706xMg%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
if link expires: type: Toyota Landcruiser 80 series Prado FJ Hilux 4runner 4WD Dual Battery Volt Meter
morphious
New member
[MENTION=101314]sr3tlaw[/MENTION] Thanks! I went with a simple PAC 80amp as I was able to pick it up at a good deal in my local electronics supply store and I really don't plan on needing to jump the truck from my aux battery through the isolator. Easy enough to upgrade to a higher amp isolator in the future ever arises, but I doubt I ever will.
Thoughts!
[MENTION=93193]morphious[/MENTION]
Curious, have you ever ran the deep cycle very low - as its intended, and notice any hiccups in your charging system with the stock alternator.
Here is an interesting bit of info. Because I was being ballsy and wanted to try things out, I left my headlights on for about 3 hours while I was playing baseball to see if the alternator could recharge my red top starting battery. Since my two batteries are isolated when ignition is off it only drained the Red Top. When I went to start the car it started fine but after getting to my destination the alternator started screaming. Long story short - my alternator went bad and I had to replace it (replaced with OEM).
Found this was odd because in the case of me draining the Yellow Top (deep cycle) aux battery, I ponder if the alternator do the same thing and fail to recharge.
[MENTION=93193]morphious[/MENTION]
Curious, have you ever ran the deep cycle very low - as its intended, and notice any hiccups in your charging system with the stock alternator.
Here is an interesting bit of info. Because I was being ballsy and wanted to try things out, I left my headlights on for about 3 hours while I was playing baseball to see if the alternator could recharge my red top starting battery. Since my two batteries are isolated when ignition is off it only drained the Red Top. When I went to start the car it started fine but after getting to my destination the alternator started screaming. Long story short - my alternator went bad and I had to replace it (replaced with OEM).
Found this was odd because in the case of me draining the Yellow Top (deep cycle) aux battery, I ponder if the alternator do the same thing and fail to recharge.
4RunAmok
New member
If it is 80 amp continuous, it probably has a much higher peak rating, and would be ok to jump start with on the rare occasion.
Prior to changing to a 150 Amp breaker, I had a 70 amp breaker at the Aux battery end (150 amp already at the main battery) of two batteries, and it jumped a few times without issue. The more important factor will be wire size. Keep it 2 gauge or larger.
Prior to changing to a 150 Amp breaker, I had a 70 amp breaker at the Aux battery end (150 amp already at the main battery) of two batteries, and it jumped a few times without issue. The more important factor will be wire size. Keep it 2 gauge or larger.
morphious
New member
[MENTION=101314]sr3tlaw[/MENTION] [MENTION=67786]4RunAmok[/MENTION] B smart, I have ran down a dual battery system with NO isolator and killed it, no start; and it (the 4runner) charged everything fine. Yes, it will MAX higher (i believe double, 160amp), but I don't think any of us need any more amp than the stock alternator puts out. I only ran 6gauge from battery to battery. Is there a place I need to run bigger gauge wire than what comes stock on my truck?
[MENTION=93193]morphious[/MENTION]
Then I honestly must have had a faulty alternator.
6-AWG will do alright but nothing smaller. With DC current, bigger is better - most folks feel much more comfortable at 2-AWG for any current-intensive applications.
If it makes you feel any better; currently I have 6 AWG to-and-from my dual battery system. I do have intentions of moving up to 2-AWG for voltage increases.
Then I honestly must have had a faulty alternator.
6-AWG will do alright but nothing smaller. With DC current, bigger is better - most folks feel much more comfortable at 2-AWG for any current-intensive applications.
If it makes you feel any better; currently I have 6 AWG to-and-from my dual battery system. I do have intentions of moving up to 2-AWG for voltage increases.