Morimoto 2Stroke 2.0 LED Low Beam Headlight Install

Just received mine and will install in the morning. For those of you that have installed these bulbs, did you use the gasket that came on the bulb or did you use the gasket from the old bulbs/bulbs you removed?

I swapped my OEM bulb gaskets over to the 2.0 bulbs to make it fit better.
 
Just received mine and will install in the morning. For those of you that have installed these bulbs, did you use the gasket that came on the bulb or did you use the gasket from the old bulbs/bulbs you removed?

I swapped the gasket...it was much easier install. I tried the ones that came installed but after 2 minutes I tried the existing ones. Went on without a problem.
 
Installed mine this morning and was able to use the stock gasket that came with the kit. Looking forward to see how these work.
 
I checked on the bulb tonight and it was turned all the way. So I played with it a little, looking at the light on the wall and turned it the opposite way just a little and noticed the light on the wall pull together much better. Maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch turn. So I'll see how it is in the morning.

So no difference, still a hot spot on the left bulb. Is there any chance these can go in using the wrong tabs? I need to pull the bulb out to ensure its sitting at 90 degrees.
 
So no difference, still a hot spot on the left bulb. Is there any chance these can go in using the wrong tabs? I need to pull the bulb out to ensure its sitting at 90 degrees.

I’m sorry I can’t help. Mine worked right the first time I installed them without the bright spot. I would definitely call Morimoto and ask them.
 
So no difference, still a hot spot on the left bulb. Is there any chance these can go in using the wrong tabs? I need to pull the bulb out to ensure its sitting at 90 degrees.



Could be a defective bulb. Reach out to morimoto or whoever you bought them from.
 
So just got these in today finally after a month of waiting. Got em installed, but got a question for y'all.

Did you guys shove the driver + the adapter plug + the H11 plug + all the wires all under the dust cap? I got it all in there but it seems awfully crowded. I'm just trying to make sure it won't cause any problems in the future having everything in there.
 
So just got these in today finally after a month of waiting. Got em installed, but got a question for y'all.

Did you guys shove the driver + the adapter plug + the H11 plug + all the wires all under the dust cap? I got it all in there but it seems awfully crowded. I'm just trying to make sure it won't cause any problems in the future having everything in there.

Yes. Everything went under the dust cap. I’m a little OCD so I made sure everything was tucked in properly and not just “shoved in”. No issues so far.
 
Yes. Everything went under the dust cap. I’m a little OCD so I made sure everything was tucked in properly and not just “shoved in”. No issues so far.

I might pull it apart and tie some of it together later, but I just got it in for now. Like I said, it was pretty full in there with the H11 adapter so I just wanted to make sure it wouldn’t be a problem.
 
Got these in and adjusted the aim before the weekend. Found a flat bit of ground near a wall at work. Headlights were at about 41" from the ground, so I aimed the cutoff just below 40" at twenty five feet. I'm very impressed with the improvement over stock and the "throw" is more than adequate (I'm reading that this is historically a weakness of LED replacement bulbs due to the inability of replicating a satisfactory filament-style beam pattern).

As a side note, I have a buddy at work who installed eBay LED bulbs into his Chevy Silverado (reflector housings). They're plenty bright but he said everyone keeps flashing him. We were pulled up in front of a tractor trailer and I showed him why- his beams were aimed too high and were a huge scatter of light all over. He might be able to re-aim these, but I don't think he'll ever get the sharp cutoff like a projector can. Just another reason to do research and get dedicated parts that are guaranteed to work- don't just get generics that "might" work.

I think this is the best drop-in setup available so far: a great combination of price, performance, and ease of installation. I was not interested in rigging up an HID install and then aiming them way down to avoid blinding folks.

Now I'm just waiting on the high beams (with DRL high/low module) and Philips yellow fogs from XenonDepot. They're on backorder due to the massive black Friday sales. Can't wait to see how they do.
 
I just installed these as well. I'm pretty happy with them. Biggest selling point for me was not having to drill a hole in the dust cover....it's a true plug and play. Cutoff is very good and it is a nice improvement over OEM. And install is very easy, even for the mechanically challenged, like myself, lol.
 
I installed them not too long ago. The color and cutoff look nice most others have said. Not very much throw though. My modded H9 halogens seem to have longer throw. But these still have longer throw than the stock H11's.



So now I'm thinking of using these as fogs and buying Xenon Depot HID's for lows.
 
Got these in and adjusted the aim before the weekend. Found a flat bit of ground near a wall at work. Headlights were at about 41" from the ground, so I aimed the cutoff just below 40" at twenty five feet.


I used a wall on some flat ground and found my headlights were 32” at 25’! Adjusted them up 8” and i can see!!!! Haven’t been flashed yet, so I think it’s good to go. Thanks for sharing your cutoff height!
 
Here is the quote right from the write-up:

According to the DOT (Department of Transportation) and SAE (Society of Automobile Engineers) standards, here are the requirements for headlight aiming.

The SAE specifies that if the optical center of the headlamp, or optical center height (OCH), is less than 90 cm (36 inches) above the roadway surface, then the reference point should be at the same height as the optical center. If the optical center is more than 90 cm (36 inches) above the roadway surface, the reference point should be 5 cm (2 inches) below the headlamp optical center. These reference points were adjusted for the greater alignment distance
.

So I aimed mine 1-2" below the headlight height.

I think the reason why people end up having to aim their HID lamps so low is that they're too damn bright in a halogen projector, or they're prone to scatter. This is why I wasn't too keen on getting HIDs. Sure they're bright, but you risk blinding incoming traffic. Or, you have to aim them SUPER low and then reduce your range- so what's the point?

The LEDs are brighter than stock but not as offensive as HIDs. That's why I aimed them as Toyota and DOT recommends.
 
Here is the quote right from the write-up:



According to the DOT (Department of Transportation) and SAE (Society of Automobile Engineers) standards, here are the requirements for headlight aiming.



The SAE specifies that if the optical center of the headlamp, or optical center height (OCH), is less than 90 cm (36 inches) above the roadway surface, then the reference point should be at the same height as the optical center. If the optical center is more than 90 cm (36 inches) above the roadway surface, the reference point should be 5 cm (2 inches) below the headlamp optical center. These reference points were adjusted for the greater alignment distance
.


So the underlined quote is for the 25’ distance? They did their test based on a 35’ distance. The actual article isn’t very clear. Sounds like they used the SAE guidelines which state 25’ away, but they adjusted the SAE reference points for their 35’ test. Is that your understanding as well?
 
Here is the quote right from the write-up:

According to the DOT (Department of Transportation) and SAE (Society of Automobile Engineers) standards, here are the requirements for headlight aiming.

The SAE specifies that if the optical center of the headlamp, or optical center height (OCH), is less than 90 cm (36 inches) above the roadway surface, then the reference point should be at the same height as the optical center. If the optical center is more than 90 cm (36 inches) above the roadway surface, the reference point should be 5 cm (2 inches) below the headlamp optical center. These reference points were adjusted for the greater alignment distance
.

So I aimed mine 1-2" below the headlight height.

I think the reason why people end up having to aim their HID lamps so low is that they're too damn bright in a halogen projector, or they're prone to scatter. This is why I wasn't too keen on getting HIDs. Sure they're bright, but you risk blinding incoming traffic. Or, you have to aim them SUPER low and then reduce your range- so what's the point?

The LEDs are brighter than stock but not as offensive as HIDs. That's why I aimed them as Toyota and DOT recommends.

Thanks, it's clear now as that article mentioned about LED, but the actual work was on the HID. My factory airm with OEM H11's was ~41" @ 25', after installing the 2 strokes, I ended up settling at ~37" because when I eyeballed from a distance in front of the T4R, that height appears to be less instrusive for oncoming and I left the setting at that. The 2Strokes are definitely improvement over stock so that works and I doubt the difference in several inches would cause much underperformance due to road surface & load conditions.

Thanks for clarifying.
 

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