Generally, you can expect to lose 1 MPG for every inch you lift. It's not set in stone, but it is a rule of thumb. Did change tires sizes and did you re-gear?
MPG on your 3rd Gen?
- Thread starter clarkie470
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Generally, you can expect to lose 1 MPG for every inch you lift. It's not set in stone, but it is a rule of thumb. Did change tires sizes and did you re-gear?
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
I’ve been getting 16-17 mpg in my manual swapped ‘01 3.4 with manual hubs and on 37” KO2s And 4.10s.
She loves high RPMs, I won’t lie.
She loves high RPMs, I won’t lie.
Hey! I love your build. What’s the best way to get in touch with you?
Rushthezeppelin
New member
So filled up today and I got 20.75 on my last tank of almost all mountain driving. This was also with 50 miles going fairly slow in 4hi because of inclement weather on I70.
Vansnxtweek
New member
Before I ever touched my 3rd Gen I was getting around ~18mpg. I put the lift on with 285/75-16 E rated tires and that dropped me down to about 13 and some change. I just recently (3 months ago) went to SL rated 285/75-17s and that got me back up to 15 and some change. I'm pretty happy at that spot. Getting between 230-250 miles a tank.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
My city driving mileage has gotten worse the more I do to my engine. I'm at about 12 MPG city and 20 MPG highway. Still not sure why I get amazing highway miles.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Stock sized SL tires, no lift? That'll do it. I still get ~20mpg highway with metric 32's and a mild lift...
-Charlie
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Yes, never changed the lift or tire size. I figured that raising the center of gravity while also adding power and taking corners faster wasn't a good combination.
You'd think so huh? I'm usually the guy in the slow lane doing the speed limit while every other car whizzes by. I guess I am not much in a hurry compared to most.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I've tried a few things and researched a few others. When the ADD disconnects during 2WD driving and the axles are still spinning, there is rotating mass added but since they are just axles and most of that weight is very close to the center they don't add much in the way of drag or unnecessary energy being spent. Not like a tire which can weigh over 50 lbs depending on size and be over 12 inches away from the center - now that adds some drag!
If you are looking at reducing or removing drag and/or rotational in order to regain power and MPG, here are the top items to look at changing in order from biggest impact to small:
- Automatic Transmission - Ever wondered why manual version of vehicles get a better MPG rating by the EPA than autos? All those clutches, fluid passageways and pressure plates lose energy in the form of heat and less energy is transferred to the wheels so it takes more gas to move at the same speed.
- Lighter or smaller tires - Not a popular suggestion but running a lighter tire of the same size or returning to the stock size really does regain power and mileage. Less weight and having the weight concentrated closer to the center point makes a big difference.
- Lighter wheels - This one is more feasible as you can keep your tire size. There are performance wheels by SCS or FN Wheels that are surprisingly light and strong. I hope to get a set on my 4Runner in the future.
- Power Steering or A/C delete - You did ask what would save on drag. Taking both the power steering out and removing the belt off the A/C compressor frees up 'wasted' power and will improve MPG's. Makes turning the car a real workout.
- LCE lightweight crank pulley - Saves 7.5 lbs of rotational mass and can easily be swapped out during a timing belt change. I noticed a difference in power but not MPG, probably not enough to make a mark.
- Water pump delete - Yes, this is a thing. No, you shouldn't do it unless you are building a drag racer that doesn't drive more than 1/4 a mile at a time.
GhostRing
Member
When I swapped my drive flanges for selectable hubs on my 5 spd. '94 T4R, it definitely felt "free-er" if that makes sense?
A marginal increase in mileage, but that wasn't the main reason at the time.
I would do it in a heartbeat on my '98, but it is so much more involved, that my enthusiasm fizzled.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
The feeling between hubs locked and unlocked are as clear night and day, how much it really translates to improved MPG is debatable. The biggest advantage is being able to put a lunchbox locker in your front diff and chew your way up any hill and over any obstacle while not being obligated to full-time locked front wheels. Oh, and when you're lifted, your front CVS aren't spinning all the time.
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
That alone might make it worth it for folks lifted 3" or more.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I would have to agree as it seems the cv joint boots don't seem to like the higher articulation angles the lifts seem to put them in.
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
A diff drop usually helps, at it has least in my experience.
I would have to agree as it seems the cv joint boots don't seem to like the higher articulation angles the lifts seem to put them in.
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Diff drop + heavy duty axles have been my saving grace. I would rip through normal axle boots until I put in the Napa 1258 extended cv axles. They have honestly been great and I'd highly recommend them, which is surprising because I favor most everything OEM.
shadow247
New member
Agree 1000 percent on this. I'm trying to find a donor for my buddy to go with his Solo Motosports stock length LT. It's just too tall and he is blowing OEM boots every 6 months it seems.
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