Mstudt's SR5 Build & Adventure Thread

The final section is almost done. I decided to go with driver and passenger side boxes on this one. Both of these will most likely be hinged, but still not 100% sure. I'll skid the box building part since this is starting to get picture heavy.

The finished box. Two boxes, but only one platform.



Section in place.



I was really hoping to get 72" out of the platform but oh well. I'll have to make a removable piece to cover the last few inches.


I want to make a support section that goes under the lip on the box. It'll add support between the box and the floor behind the front seats. If anyone needs measurements or more information on what I've done feel free to ask.
 
I've used biscuit jointer before but never the Kreg jig, and for someone who's had some fair share of woodworking experiences, I didn't know such a tool existed.

Great job with the drawers and the overall project................
 
I've used biscuit jointer before but never the Kreg jig, and for someone who's had some fair share of woodworking experiences, I didn't know such a tool existed.

Great job with the drawers and the overall project................

I do woodworking and remodeling for myself. The Kreg Jig is a great tool, and I find myself using it on a little of everything. I would like to have been able to use a biscuit jointer with the MDF, but that is the one tool I still don't have. I've been trying to make everything in individual cabinets since MDF isn't strongest. My theory is that by making them smaller with less open space, they will be less prone to breaking. Although, I must say that working with MDF is not my forte. If I had my way I would be using all live edge cedar to build this. But, who can argue with free!
 
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So I made the main support going across the front of the box, and two small pieces for the sides. I need to do some leveling and shimming on the front. Everything seems to be pretty close from front to back, but I'm going to give it a once over to double check.

Made a template from some old cardboard I had.


Copied the template, started cutting, and ended up with this.


Did the same thing for the sides.



Of course I still need to make lids and tops for everything. Once that is done I'll be carpeting everything to match the original carpeting that inside.

On a side note, does anyone know if I still need working seat belts in the rear if the seat are removed? I'm only wondering for state inspections. I remember reading somewhere that all original seat belt locations must be working regardless of if there is a seat present or not. Of course that was in PA, and I'm in MO.
 
Lets move onto the next issue, and I need some help with this. I'm getting codes P0440 and P0442, along with the VSC OFF and VSC TRAC lights on the dash. My code reader is saying the both are Auxiliary Emission Control problems. The only thing I've done so far is replace the gas cap. Any help would be great.
Thanks

I haven't seen any answers to this issue yet, did you get this sorted out?

My 02 throws 442, 446 and 440 every drive cycle. I replaced the gas cap initially, then on my Ex-Brother-In-Law's(former Toyota mechanic) recommendation I replaced the Evap Canister ($400ish) with a Toyota one. Started throwing codes the next day. Replaced the VSV with a Toyota part ($80) and still throwing codes. I threw in the towel and took it to the Stealership for a diagnostic. They tell me it's a valve of some sort on top of the gas tank that is bad. $500 mostly labor for pulling the tank.

Not trying to give any recommendation other than chasing this code costs a lot of money. I think I paid $70 for the dealership to find out what was wrong.

Good luck!

kp
 
I haven't seen any answers to this issue yet, did you get this sorted out?

My 02 throws 442, 446 and 440 every drive cycle. I replaced the gas cap initially, then on my Ex-Brother-In-Law's(former Toyota mechanic) recommendation I replaced the Evap Canister ($400ish) with a Toyota one. Started throwing codes the next day. Replaced the VSV with a Toyota part ($80) and still throwing codes. I threw in the towel and took it to the Stealership for a diagnostic. They tell me it's a valve of some sort on top of the gas tank that is bad. $500 mostly labor for pulling the tank.

Not trying to give any recommendation other than chasing this code costs a lot of money. I think I paid $70 for the dealership to find out what was wrong.

Good luck!

kp

I replaced the gas cap and everything is fine for now. Keep in mind that this vehicle is not driven much, so that may be an issue. If the lights come back on I'll be replacing the purge valve on the gas tank, and also check the filler next. If this doesn't do it I'll then move on to the charcoal canister. If none of these work, I'll just carry my code reader at all time and erase them as them come up.
 
E-brake Issue

Onto another issue that came with the car. I'm getting ready for a state inspection on Friday and I wanted to see what was up with the emergency brake. The handle only goes up two clicks, three if I yank up on it. My first thought was it just needed to be adjusted, no dice. I put the rear on jack stands, took off the tires, and pulled the drums. I quickly found out what the problem was.




These were so corroded they wouldn't budge with a hammer. I spent and hour just trying to loosen one of them up enough to start moving, and that's just the beginning. I spend the next couple hours trying to located these locally. Call the stealership and they wanted $150 per side. Ended up finding them at O'reilly's for $46, just have to wait a day for them. eBay has them for about the same price, but who knows when they'd show up.
 
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New parts came in today, looks much better.




Maybe this thing will actually pass inspection tomorrow.
 
Good news, it passed inspection.

A few things they recommended working on:
*Plugs and wires
*Timing belt
*Air filter
*Transmission fluid flush

***Fuel/Air Ind SVR- can someone please let me know what this is?***

I've got a list of things to do this weekend. One of them being, buying my suspension from Toytec.
 


So I ordered my lift today and was wondering about these extended rear brake line. I haven't read to much about people actually using these. Do I really need to have one?
 
So I ordered my lift today and was wondering about these extended rear brake line. I haven't read to much about people actually using these. Do I really need to have one?

When you install the lift, cycle your rear suspension. You'll know if you need one or not. Some do, some don't. I had enough slack in mine where I didn't need it but I've seen others where it was stretching the hell out of the brake line.
 
When you install the lift, cycle your rear suspension. You'll know if you need one or not. Some do, some don't. I had enough slack in mine where I didn't need it but I've seen others where it was stretching the hell out of the brake line.

Thanks. Got them just in case, but would rather not have to mess with these.
 
What would you suggest? I'll be adding a bumper, sleeping platform with storage, backpacking gear, kayaks, and bikes. I'll easily have and extra 200lbs at any given time.


Search OME 906's! I have them and they carry weight like no other. You will have close to 500lbs of stuff in the truck quick with a cargo box. Even if you throw a new bumper on it one day this will be a solid set up with the shocks you want. Just my .02

Blue

PS- I'll be home to MO soon I hope. We need to make a run with a few of the guys.
 
Search OME 906's! I have them and they carry weight like no other. You will have close to 500lbs of stuff in the truck quick with a cargo box. Even if you throw a new bumper on it one day this will be a solid set up with the shocks you want. Just my .02

Blue

PS- I'll be home to MO soon I hope. We need to make a run with a few of the guys.

Sounds good. We should be getting our lift delivered this week, and installing it in a couple weeks. I ended up just going with the OME 891's for the rear.
 
Toytec doesn't mess around! Ordered my stuff on Saturday and it showed up today. To bad I have to wait until next Saturday for the install though.




Also did a little wheel shopping, and the wife picked out these.
 
Power Inverter Help!

We're looking into getting a power inverter that we can use for our laptop. I've read about people saying 100w inverters are not enough, and people saying they are. Does anyone know if a 100w inverter will work, or should I go up to around a 400w inverter?
 
LED Interior

Ordered a few more items this morning for the interior. I ordered 3 used tan dome lights from a 94-97 Honda Accord. I plan on adding one to the rear hatch, and one on each side where the cargo cover mounts were. Also order some LED bulds from SuperBrightLED.

94-97 Honda Accord lights.


DE3175 4 SMD LED's for all the dome lights.


194 5 SMD LED's for the instrument cluster.


74 3 SMD LED's for the instrument cluster, key ring, and center dash area.
 

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