Multiple codes, x-mas tree dashboard lights

M

MRT555

New member
Hi All,

Sorry I reposted from another area, but I don't have alot of time to get this fixed :( I am new to the forum and have a 2005 Sport V8. I have had my VSC, TRAC, and check engine light on for about a month, and 2 days ago my MAINT light came on and I have no power. The truck is very sluggish, can barely make it up a hill, won't go over 4k rpm in park, and only makes it to about 25-30mph slowly. The codes it threw are:

P2440 - Secondary air injection system valve stuck open (Bank 1)
P1441 - No info
P1444 - No info
C1201 - Engine control system malfunction

Also, I took it in a couple days ago and the codes at that time were something about Catalytic efficiency below threshold. He cleared the codes before I got any numbers or more info. I think it may have been both banks. It is also more throaty sounding. Similar to when I installed a CAI on my Xterra, but this is just a little louder, and I don't like this one...

I really don't have the $1500 I was quoted to have the injector valve replaced. How hard of a job is it? My guess is that my valve is bad, and i may have a combination of bad O2 sensors and cats. The truck has 160k miles. I need to try to do this as cheap as possible. I was thinking of changing both O2 sensors first. Not sure if I would need to change the A/F sensors. If that doesn't work, then change atleast one of the cat's. After that, the other cat. Finally if all else fails, the Air injection valve which I can't find a price for online. What do yall think. I'm just taking guesses. Or maybe 1 cat and O2 sensor together. then other side. Any help would be appreciated! have been using 10% ethanol gas, and I put Seafoam in the day before this problem got really bad.


Thanks,

- Mike
 
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I will tell you right now I think your vehicle is in Limp Home mode... That C1201 could have tripped that. As for the others I will look them up tomorrow and let you know.
 
Yeah from all the reading I have done I think you are right about it being in limp mode even though the local repair place said that an open air injector valve would cause the driving problems I am seeing. I wish I would have wrote the codes i saw a few days ago down though. The codes said that the catalytic efficiency was below threshold, but I don't know what banks they were. I am going to drive it around alot tomorrow and see if I can get them to pop back up.

Thank you for the help!!!
 
That C1201 makes me wonder if there is a voltage issue somewhere... The two codes you don't have information for are related to EVAP and probably not a cause of the drivability issue but a symptom/side effect. They're sensor input output issues which makes me wonder about voltage....
 
Any idea what I should do? I am hoping that C1201 is just an error caused by the other codes, but im prolly not that lucky.

And thanks Rick, i will try clearing that tomorrow.
 
How's the battery? I've seen all kinds of haywire electrical issues when the battery is dying. Maybe have it stress tested at like autozone or something.
 
settytb said:
How's the battery? I've seen all kinds of haywire electrical issues when the battery is dying. Maybe have it stress tested at like autozone or something.
Click to expand...

Sorry... this this actually what I was going for... The majority of those codes seem to be from sensors dependent on voltage specific inputs/outputs. That C1201 is a sort of generic "your car dun freaked out!" code. I am wondering if either the battery is going bad, the alternator is fluctuating too much, and or a combination of the two.

When there is unstable voltage it can cause a lot of strange issues.
 
I had the battery and alternator checked. They said the battery was bad, so I got a new one and put it in. The truck ran great for a about 2 mins or so, then the VSC and check engine light came back on, and it went back into limp home mode :(
 
Autozone is only showing the P2440 code, Orielly's is showing the P2440, P1441, and P1444. Not sure about the C1201, that one only showed up when I paid $35 to have the codes read at a shop with their more expensive reader.
 
Okay, well at least the battery was actually bad so that's something we can now rule out. I was hoping that the battery might have been the culprit but the air valves and such might actually be the problem. I will look into it Saturday if I have some time at work. Toyota usually has great tables/information on why the codes set and what they base their tests off of.
 
Well my O2 sensors arrived today. Since I had already ordered them I went ahead and changed them out. I had ordered them because of the emission codes I had got a few weeks ago, and at the time it seemed like a possibly culprit. So after I installed them I disconneted the battery for about 15 mins, reconnected, and drove around. The CEL and VSC lights came back on, and it went back into limp home mode :( Sucks, but I guess I got those changed out before they went bad...

Question though, does disconnecting the battery on 4Runners actually clear the computers memory? I heard that on some vehicles it doesn't.
 
Yes. Time varies. The on board computer will be able to "hold" the code for a bit, but usually after 10-20 minutes without power the code will clear out.


At this point. Head on over to a dealership. Sounds like you need someone trained in the 4runner to take a look at this.
 
Well I was prolly closer to the 10min time frame, but i thought that would have been more than enough... Yeah I have been considering going to a dealer, but I am holding out for BlackWorksInc, his signature tells me he might be able to find some better info for me :) I guess I can try leaving the battery disconnected for 1/2 hour tomorrow and see what happens, just incase I didn't wait long enough.
 
regardless of if you cleared the code or not, if the sensors had "fixed" the problem, it would have gone out of "limp" mode. That it did, means that the problem is still there.

You can keep clearing, and it will pop right back up since the underlying problem obviously hasn't been dealt with.
 
Same thing happened to me a few years ago. It was in limp mode as well. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the cat converters under warranty.
 
I'm sorry I did not get the chance to check the TIS network... I had a family emergency come up and had to leave early. Of all days.... on my birthday... lol...
 
No problem B. I went to the dealership and they checked it out for $30. Said 2440, 1441, 1444 are all air injection codes. Said it would cost $440 to removed the intake manifold and find out the problem. From there the parts range from $250 for the secondary valves, $500 for the primary, and $1300 for the air pump. The said it could also just be a broken hose, but they can't do anything without taking the intake off...
 
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