Muther efn lower rear shock mount!

[Scramble]

We all know the upper rear shock mount is a bltch but I had no problem getting those nuts off. A 1/2" ratchet & turned the shock by hand, easy! My 5100's have only been on there for 3 years & I spray WD40 up there when ever I'm under the truck.

I'm in the middle of an e-locker axle swap & the shocks wouldn't slide off the lower mounts. I finally got the passenger side off, PB Blaster, a 2"x4" & a BFH after using a crow bar with no luck but the driver side wont come off for shit. The PS had much dirt & rust between the bushing & mount. The DS must be much worse. Damn mud & water crossings.

I've tried everything but heat (crow bar, rubber mallet, dead blow hammer, PB Blaster, WD40, 2x4 with a hammer & as a crow bar) because I want dont want to melt the bushing & reuse the shock.

I've spent two afternoons on this & would rather have spent $88 on a new shock. Everyone seems to sell these as pairs but Low Range Off Road has them as singles. (5100 Tundra Rear Long Travel)

I'm cutting this ****er off unless someone can think of something I haven't tried. (besides heat) I'd hate to ruin a perfectly good shock.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

We all know the upper rear shock mount is a bltch but I had no problem getting those nuts off. A 1/2" ratchet & turned the shock by hand, easy! My 5100's have only been on there for 3 years & I spray WD40 up there when ever I'm under the truck.

I'm in the middle of an e-locker axle swap & the shocks wouldn't slide off the lower mounts. I finally got the passenger side off, PB Blaster, a 2"x4" & a BFH after using a crow bar with no luck but the driver side wont come off for shit. The PS had much dirt & rust between the bushing & mount. The DS must be much worse. Damn mud & water crossings.

I've tried everything but heat (crow bar, rubber mallet, dead blow hammer, PB Blaster, WD40, 2x4 with a hammer & as a crow bar) because I want dont want to melt the bushing & reuse the shock.

I've spent two afternoons on this & would rather have spent $88 on a new shock. Everyone seems to sell these as pairs but Low Range Off Road has them as singles. (5100 Tundra Rear Long Travel)

I'm cutting this ****er off unless someone can think of something I haven't tried. (besides heat) I'd hate to ruin a perfectly good shock.

Put it all back together accept for the lower bolts and do some spirited offroading :rockon::rockon::rockon::behindsofa:

 

[thegipper]

Well if your end game is to cut it off, might as well try some heat first. Maybe a little bit at a time and maybe she'll start to slide off.

Never had any issue getting the lower part off and my rig is all sorts of rusty. The top has always been a pain, which is why I just cut the shock off near the top mount!

 

[Scramble]

Put it all back together accept for the lower bolts and do some spirited offroading :rockon::rockon::rockon::behindsofa:

haha, sounds like fun but that would be more work than cutting it off & putting my new axle on!
My old axle is off the truck, diff gasket is leaking, I'd have to redo the break lines...eace:

 

[Road Bull]

That sucks. It always seems to be something small that jacks me up.

Is the bolt seized, or just not sliding off? Maybe jack stand to frame, jack up other side with floor jack to take off some pressure? I might be interpreting the issue incorrectly. If it is a seized boltsoak with PB blaster and use some sort of cheater bar or lever force and four-letter-words to let it know you're serious.

 

[theesotericone]

I've tried everything but heat (crow bar, rubber mallet, dead blow hammer, PB Blaster, WD40, 2x4 with a hammer & as a crow bar) because I want dont want to melt the bushing & reuse the shock.

The lower? Really?

You could try making a funkness device. It's an old climbing trick used to remove stuck pins.

Basically you'll need some really strong rope or wire. About 5 feet or so. Wrap it behind the shock mount using a knot that won't let it slide over it. Then attach the other end to a 4 to 8 lb single jack hammer. Get some slack between you and the shock and swing till it pulls tight. This generates a shit ton of force. I've never tried it on anything auto but think it's worth a shot.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Air hammer. A good one with lots of air behind it.

 

[Scramble]

Well if your end game is to cut it off, might as well try some heat first. Maybe a little bit at a time and maybe she'll start to slide off.

Never had any issue getting the lower part off and my rig is all sorts of rusty. The top has always been a pain, which is why I just cut the shock off near the top mount!

Good point on the heat...
My original shocks were 15yo & they slid off with some light tapping.
The top nut was a rusted blob though & my buddy cut them off with a oxy/acl torch, the oil caught fire...it was quite exciting!

 

[Scramble]

That sucks. It always seems to be something small that jacks me up.

Is the bolt seized, or just not sliding off? Maybe jack stand to frame, jack up other side with floor jack to take off some pressure? I might be interpreting the issue incorrectly. If it is a seized boltsoak with PB blaster and use some sort of cheater bar or lever force and four-letter-words to let it know you're serious.

Bolt came right out, shock wont slide off the mount.

I tried all kinds of brute force while the axle was still on the truck now the axle is sitting in my yard with a shock still attached.

I can drag the whole axle around my yard by the shock! LOL

 

[Unner]

Ratchet strap cleverly wrapped around the bottom of the shock and then something else?

Bigger Hammer?

Custom mounted outboard external reservoir shocks?

 

[Cree]

Bolt came right out, shock wont slide off the mount.

I tried all kinds of brute force while the axle was still on the truck now the axle is sitting in my yard with a shock still attached! LOL

I can drag the whole axle around by the shock & the bolt is out! LOL

Can you rotate it radially at all?

I wouldn't worry about the bushing at all at this point. I wouldn't want to reuse it anyway.

 

[Recon Ron]

If you're not using the old axle, why not use a cutoff wheel or recep. saw and cut the axle shock tabs off? They can be welded back on if necessary to reuse the axle. You can also buy replacement hardware ie. grommet, bolt, and nut for the shock. Am I envisioning this wrong?

 

[Scramble]

Ratchet strap cleverly wrapped around the bottom of the shock and then something else?

Bigger Hammer?

Custom mounted outboard external reservoir shocks?

I like the ratchet strap idea, I could have wrapped it around one of the cross members but unfortunately the axle is off the truck now. I needed to keep the project moving & get the gears swapped. I've been looking at Icon & Fox while shock shopping!

The lower? Really?

You could try making a funkness device. It's an old climbing trick used to remove stuck pins.

Basically you'll need some really strong rope or wire. About 5 feet or so. Wrap it behind the shock mount using a knot that won't let it slide over it. Then attach the other end to a 4 to 8 lb single jack hammer. Get some slack between you anhttp://www.toyota-4runner.org/editpost.php?do=editpost&p=2756810d the shock and swing till it pulls tight. This generates a shit ton of force. I've never tried it on anything auto but think it's worth a shot.

Nice, I cold have done something similar with a ratchet strap.

Air hammer. A good one with lots of air behind it.

I thought about that & really wish I had air, hopefully before next spring.

 

[greatape]

Gotta love salt roads...

 

[Scramble]

Can you rotate it radially at all?

I wouldn't worry about the bushing at all at this point. I wouldn't want to reuse it anyway.

Yes, I can move it clockwise or counter clockwise easily, it's soaked with WD40.

Yea, you think it's shot? I have no problem braking out the angle grinder.

If you're not using the old axle, why not use a cutoff wheel or recep. saw and cut the axle shock tabs off? They can be welded back on if necessary to reuse the axle. You can also buy replacement hardware ie. grommet, bolt, and nut for the shock. Am I envisioning this wrong?

If I cut off the shock mount it will still be stuck in the shock bushing. Then I'll never get it out without the weight of the axle housing behind it.

I'm swapping my 4.56's to the new e-axle & putting the 4.30's in my old axle & would like to sell it someday.

 

[theesotericone]

Nice, I cold have done something similar with a ratchet strap.

You can still do it with the axle out of the vehicle. Just be careful. When I say it generates a shit ton of force I'm not kidding.

Congrats on the locker BTW.

 

[Cree]

Yes, I can move it clockwise or counter clockwise easily, it's soaked with WD40.

Yea, you think it's shot? I have no problem braking out the angle grinder.

The shock? No. The bushing? If it's stuck that hard, I'd say yes, absolutely. Torch it and get a new one, save the shock.

 

[Scramble]

You can still do it with the axle out of the vehicle. Just be careful. When I say it generates a shit ton of force I'm not kidding.

Congrats on the locker BTW.

LOL, I have 4 ratchet straps, maybe I could strap it to a tree!

My fingers are bashed, my wrists, forearms, shoulders are all sore as f@ck! Now you want a shock flying at my head! LOL

The angle grinder is sounding better & better. :hunter:

Thanks, drove down to Virginia to get a rust free one. :hungry:

 

[kolelt]

I had this issue when removing my bilstein 5100. They weren't even old. Ended up basically burning the rubber boot then air hammering it of.

Made sure to put anti seize when installed new shocks.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Duuuude.
SUCH A BÍTCH.
Same thing with my 5100 after only 2 months! I believe I used a pitman arm puller to finally get it off. Anti-seized the fck outta it when it went back on. I was so frustrated at that damn thing.