19963.4lsr5
New member
I haven’t started dropping the tank yet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread
- Thread starter 19963.4lsr5
- Start date
19963.4lsr5
New member
First picture is my tools for the axle seal replacement.
So the frame repair begins.
I pumped out the tank using the return line, removed the running board and started the tank extraction. I too have a tank strap that’s rotted away.
And the body mount looks like it’s missing a piece. I’ll deal with the body mount bushings later.
Tomorrow I’ll complete the tank extraction.
Below is how I got the 4Runner home with the broken mount.
The cable was a co-workers idea.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
19963.4lsr5
New member
This came with my repair part.
The 4th Gen repair parts are on the other side.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The 4th Gen repair parts are on the other side.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
19963.4lsr5
New member
FYI. That's exactly how that body mount is supposed to be that way.loose and looking like a bushing missing.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
19963.4lsr5
New member
Tank is out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
19963.4lsr5
New member
Part looks ok parts don’t. It’s going to be fun.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
brillo_76
Elite Member
That's all rotted off. The bottom of the frame rotted away. That's what I expected to see with how the bracket came loose. :[
The steel gone 50% up both sides or more?
As it be best to get rid of the rot.
Worst case. You can clean the top of the inside frame and plate it for increased strength. Then cut the sides off one at a time. Replacing the steel down to the bottom. Once all back in there weld your covers over.
You see why I basically build a new U in the frame. As you have to have steel to weld too.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
The steel gone 50% up both sides or more?
As it be best to get rid of the rot.
Worst case. You can clean the top of the inside frame and plate it for increased strength. Then cut the sides off one at a time. Replacing the steel down to the bottom. Once all back in there weld your covers over.
You see why I basically build a new U in the frame. As you have to have steel to weld too.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
19963.4lsr5
New member
I’m still forming a plan. The sleeve is 11 gauge and seems thicker than the frame thickness.
I need to cut the bad stuff away all the while not letting the frame sag while doing it.
I wish I had my garage wired for 240v I’d fire up my compressor and sandblast the inside and then paint it with ZeroRust.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I need to cut the bad stuff away all the while not letting the frame sag while doing it.
I wish I had my garage wired for 240v I’d fire up my compressor and sandblast the inside and then paint it with ZeroRust.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
brillo_76
Elite Member
Yes. Nothing wrong with thinking on it a few days. Welding a plate on the top rail will secure it. By the looks of your top rail its intact and solid at this point.
Could rebuild the sides get those secure again then cut the old sides off. I mostly do one side at a time. So to make sure the frame stays at the same point. Not a good idea to chop both sides completely off as bending can occur.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Could rebuild the sides get those secure again then cut the old sides off. I mostly do one side at a time. So to make sure the frame stays at the same point. Not a good idea to chop both sides completely off as bending can occur.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
19963.4lsr5
New member
So I think my plan is going to be removing the bad steel and rust proofing what I can and slipping the sleeve over what’s left of the frame and weld it in place. It’s 35 inches long and 1/8” thick. I’ll end up removing all the rear brake line mounts plus the gas tank spacer block bolted to the frame.
I really think it would be overkill repairing the frame and then installing that sleeve.
I’ll also run a magnet in the frame and remove all the scale that flaked off.
I will paint the inside of the sleeve with ZeroRust.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I really think it would be overkill repairing the frame and then installing that sleeve.
I’ll also run a magnet in the frame and remove all the scale that flaked off.
I will paint the inside of the sleeve with ZeroRust.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
brillo_76
Elite Member
19963.4lsr5
New member
Test fit
I need to bolt up the lower control arm to make sure I got the position correct.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
19963.4lsr5
New member
The frame is cleaned and sprayed with a zinc primer. As well as the inside of the sleeve. I pulled all the rust scale I could out of the frame with a magnet.
Tomorrow my goal is to install the sleeve and bolt up the LCA and put it in it’s permanent resting place. When I finish my work stretch next week I’ll weld it in place.
I ordered the tank strap and picked up the pickup filter. I need to order gaskets for pulling the pump assembly yet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tomorrow my goal is to install the sleeve and bolt up the LCA and put it in it’s permanent resting place. When I finish my work stretch next week I’ll weld it in place.
I ordered the tank strap and picked up the pickup filter. I need to order gaskets for pulling the pump assembly yet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
JBurt
Senior Member
You work way faster than me! Have you thought about doing an internal frame coating while you've got easy access?
Something like this?
Eastwood Internal Frame Coating Aerosol Spray (14-oz.)
Something like this?
Eastwood Internal Frame Coating Aerosol Spray (14-oz.)
brillo_76
Elite Member
Dont waste your money in the heavy rust belt with Eastwood coatings. I dont think the internal frame can get descaled and clean enough for these products to work properly. I used that product and went into the frame a year later and it was rusting again.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
19963.4lsr5
New member
I start my 12hr shift tomorrow morning. So work will be on hold until next Wednesday when I start my 5 day off stretch again.
I still worry about getting that sleeve in the proper spot so it doesn’t move the axle.
I will flood the frame with fluidfilm or something like it. The jeep people like using linseed oil.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
19963.4lsr5
New member
Can someone out there give me some help?
I need a reference point measurement from the lower control arm mount to a point on the frame.
I’m going to start welding the frame repair sleeve in on Wednesday and want to be as accurate as possible.
If both frame rails are identical I may be able to use the passenger side to accurately place the axle.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I need a reference point measurement from the lower control arm mount to a point on the frame.
I’m going to start welding the frame repair sleeve in on Wednesday and want to be as accurate as possible.
If both frame rails are identical I may be able to use the passenger side to accurately place the axle.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
