My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

You guys got some great deals and did a killer job on this one.



I'm still in shock that you managed to make that new Scion radio work (since everything these days has antitheft bs and weird super-specific connections). As well as the fact that the stock radio uses RCA's on the back... odd.



Forgive me if I missed it, but WHERE did you get that USB port that fits into the switch hole? Super clean!



The USB port wasn't a exact fit. I had to take the blank insert and cut the center out to fit the USB/Audio adapter. There all over Amazon etc.....just search "Toyota USB" I'm pretty sure they are actually a direct fit for the 4th gen.

The stock radio in both the 97 SR5 and Limited didn't have RCA's. The Limited had a Amp I removed. The instal was done a few times over the past few years to a 3rd gen. I just followed along. The trick is to find the radio with the CH and AD Toyota harness adapters plugged into it. That saves you around 70 dollars. I guess one could always buy a handful Of Metra adapters and make a equivalent to the two Toyota harness adapters.

Having a Fein Multimaster and using the thin half moon saw blade made cutting and trimming easy. Sadly I only thought of using it after I had already screwed up using a razor knife. The install of the T1819 in my Saturn and then the Limited were progressively cleaner looking.


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So, a car-parts.com supplier returned my email with a picture of the T10071 radio with the gps module for 135 dollars. I asked if they can snag the gps antenna and what shipping is......

The plan is to buy this for the 4Runner and move the T1819 radio to my Saturn S Series and remove the T1819 from my Saturn with a noisy cooling fan and fix it and give that repaired radio to my brother for his Saturn. You all can't believe the sound quality until you do the swap. 200w crystal clear amp. Playing Hearts Alone and Dog and Butterfly song is musical bliss off their Seattle live album.


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It's also time to find where I put the Blazer Driving lights and see how they mount up to the factory brackets. Blazer C8011 is a rear mount 3x5 that should fit.


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I have been using car-parts.com for many years and probably sent out hundreds of emails during that time. Not a single one ever replied to any of my emails.
 
Well the driving lights are installed.
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And finding a T10071 radio with the NAV module is proving harder than expected.


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Great job bringing this 4Runner back to life! I like the fog light look of the early 3rd gens. Can't wait to finally replace mine after about 6 years of empty holes where the old ones used to be.
 
I'm going to say I like these lamps as long as the bulbs don't burn out every 2 months. It defiantly lights up more than just my headlights alone.


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Driving in the snow to work yesterday and mostly coasting at 30mph for 30 miles in traffic my P0420 came back coasting down a long hill. I'm going to see if it goes out on its own under normal driving conditions. It may be time for a rear O2 sensor. Heck I may just get both. Only God knows how old they are with 260,000 miles on this rig......


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So, I was going to attempt to make a valve adjustment tool but finding one for 30 dollars I figured screw it and ordered it.


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Puppy play pen while I do the first oil change after the engine swap. Still haven't hooked up the trans cooler I mounted....lazy.


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So today I watched the rear O2 sensor on my way to work. If I drive below 2000rpm it's voltage swings from .1-.8v if I lock out OverDrive and my RPMs are above 2000 my rear sensor swings from .1-.6v like I expected to see. So either my cat isn't getting up to temp just tooling around or its bad. I have the new sensor to put in but don't think it going to change anything.

Anyone care to graph their rear sensor and say what the high and low is or post a picture of it?


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Today I put the new rear O2 sensor in as first step to get rid of my P0420 code.

The sensor I bought has a longer pigtail than what's there. I just looped the excess cable and zip tied it.
 

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Since I'm still trying to come up with the 1uf CAP I figured I'd try the Diode trick since the blue wire would get a resistor for the cap method. I soldered to keep corrosion out of the connection. It all fit neatly back under the cover.


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Installed the modified rear O2 sensor last night at my brothers heated garage. Watched the rear sensor in Torque Pro and the Diode is doing its job. I've never seen the voltage go above .6v usually it's .5 or less. I also believe I seen the PCM test the cat efficiency. Around the 8mile mark on my drive home the engine went open loop while driving and changed the AF a few times over a mile or two no matter where I had the throttle. I'm sure it did that to see what the rear sensor was reading (should not be equal).

Also I think my main problem is a cold exhaust temp just tooling along. If I kept the rpm above 2000 the CAT seemed to work properly. When I let it shift to overdrive and RPMs drop to 1500 after a few miles the rear sensor would toggle high low like the front sensor.


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It's been Darn cold here in south central PA. I'm a little disappointed at the voltage regulators voltage offset for these cold temps. My Saturn (internally regulated Alt like the Toyota) and my 94 Cummins (externally regulated by the PCM) run 14.7-15v in these temps. The 4Runner runs 14v summer and winter. It should be pushing at least .5-.7v more to keep the battery up in these temps.


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This is the graph of the front and rear 02 sensor after the diode instal. The top is the rear sensor in each picture.
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