My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

[19963.4lsr5]

This is today's drive to work. I've driven it at least 250 miles and light is still on. And sadly the rear sensor looks to be in phase (going up and down together) with the front which is one of the things the ECU looks at to determine its efficacy.

So, this off stretch I'll solder my cap across the out of the diode and the ground (white). That should slow down the up and down (phase shift) and hopefully lower the peek voltage some. The voltage rise will be slower as the Cap is absorbing the voltage till it's fully charged and as the voltage drops the cap will give back that voltage it stored until they are equal slowing down the drop off. Sized right the cap could eliminate the entire ripple like it would in a switching power supply.


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[19963.4lsr5]

So today I soldered in the Capacitor on the ECU side of the diode and this is how it changed my signal. I wish there was less ripple.

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[19963.4lsr5]

Today I did about 30-40 miles of city driving and code didn't clear so I cut out the diode and installed the 1 meg ohm resistor. I will watch it tomorrow and see what the signal has become.


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[19963.4lsr5]

This is the signal with the Cap and resistor setup.

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[19963.4lsr5]

As an update the modified sensor did not cause the code to reset on its own. And I needed to disconnect the battery to do more testing on it which would reset the 420 code. So I put the new rear sensor back in and will wait for the code to return. The CAT readiness monitor is set and there is no current or pending P0420 code.

Here is what my saturns rear O2 signal looks like.

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[19963.4lsr5]

It's been mentioned in previous posts that the engine doesn't go closed loop until it warms up.

I'm here to tell you that with engine and IAT at 23f this morning I decided to see actually how long it takes to go closed loop. It was less than 1 minute. The fuel system went "closed loop" with engine at 57 degrees. Which goes back to my statement that as soon as the ECM sees a valid O2 sensor signal it goes into Closed Loop. But I really doubt those members look at my thread.......


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[19963.4lsr5]

So this morning I started the Toy to go home from work and noticed the battery light on. Since I always have a USB charger in my cig lighter with voltage display I took a glance. I had 11.3v on its display and a 32 mile drive home in the dark.

Only using the headlights when I needed to I made it home.

When I woke up I fired up the toy and put my volt meter on the battery and the alt output and they were both 11.8v. So I tapped the alternator with a hammer and instantly heard the slight whine of it working and the idle went down. Voltage at battery was now 14.2v. It's a reman CarQuest the previous owner installed.

Everytime it rains silt is on the running board on the drivers side. I'm wondering if he hit the mud holes a lot and the alt is full of it too.

Brushes are cheep. I'll find out soon enough if the brushes are worn or stuck with silt and coal dirt.


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[jbrentd]

So this morning I started the Toy to go home from work and noticed the battery light on. Since I always have a USB charger in my cig lighter with voltage display I took a glance. I had 11.3v on its display and a 32 mile drive home in the dark.

Only using the headlights when I needed to I made it home.

When I woke up I fired up the toy and put my volt meter on the battery and the alt output and they were both 11.8v. So I tapped the alternator with a hammer and instantly heard the slight whine of it working and the idle went down. Voltage at battery was now 14.2v. It's a reman CarQuest the previous owner installed.

Everytime it rains silt is on the running board on the drivers side. I'm wondering if he hit the mud holes a lot and the alt is full of it too.

Brushes are cheep. I'll find out soon enough if the brushes are worn or stuck with silt and coal dirt.


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Sounds like a recent experience of mine except I was about 1/4 of the way into a 250 mike trip. My ODB reader was showing only 9.5v by the time I got home. I was surprised the ECU didn’t shut down the truck.

Be careful with the two screws that secure the brush holder to the alternator. I think they are JIS screws, as my Phillips head screwdriver jacked one of them up.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Sounds like a recent experience of mine except I was about 1/4 of the way into a 250 mike trip. My ODB reader was showing only 9.5v by the time I got home. I was surprised the ECU didn’t shut down the truck.

Be careful with the two screws that secure the brush holder to the alternator. I think they are JIS screws, as my Phillips head screwdriver jacked one of them up.

For Japan stuff I use the Phillips out of my 98 ZX9r Ninja's tool kit. I've learned a long time ago that a regular number 2 Phillips is not the same as the Japan. If I wouldn't have the motorcycle tool kits with the perfect fitting screwdrivers I'd have a Japan screwdriver set. Sometimes I still think about getting one.


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[19963.4lsr5]

So I've been looking for stuff to fix the whining alt out of the 97 Limited Puppy Hauler that's in a box. The 97 Limited got my spare from the wrecked 96.

This is what I'm getting for the 27060-62180 alternator. (Denso number 101211-4132)

The Maniac rebuild kit 13671RK from Amazon. It looks like they use Denso parts. The land cruiser kit 13670RK is similar and lists the part numbers in the kit. And they are all Denso.

I'm also thinking on going to the dealer and getting 27370-35060 brush holder. Toyota sells the brushes and also this holder. Yea the description should say "Brush Holder Assembly" it's fully loaded with brushes. And the plastic ring looks removable. This part will go in the CarQuest reman unit that came with the 4Runner.

Since this Alternator has a loud whining noise when you turn on the lights it will be interesting to see what's going on with it.

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[BigFishAllDay]

This is the first time I have checked out your thread, and I wanted to say I found the posts about the 02 sensor function very interesting. That is some pretty cool tech/info that I have never seen before. It was also good to know that you verified closed loop operation at such low operating temps.

I have been re-tuning the fuel/timing maps on my URD setup so I have been playing with and watching the same parameters over the last week. I've noticed transitions into closed loop at sub 100 degree operating temps as well, often within 2-3 minutes of starting the engine.

Nice work on the re-build and keep posting the in depth analysis on things. You won't get many comments because you're beyond the range of familiarity for most, but some of us get a kick out of it.

PS... on my display (a laptop) your pics are huge and it makes your thread tough to read/view.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

This is the first time I have checked out your thread, and I wanted to say I found the posts about the 02 sensor function very interesting. That is some pretty cool tech/info that I have never seen before. It was also good to know that you verified closed loop operation at such low operating temps.



I have been re-tuning the fuel/timing maps on my URD setup so I have been playing with and watching the same parameters over the last week. I've noticed transitions into closed loop at sub 100 degree operating temps as well, often within 2-3 minutes of starting the engine.



Nice work on the re-build and keep posting the in depth analysis on things. You won't get many comments because you're beyond the range of familiarity for most, but some of us get a kick out of it.



PS... on my display (a laptop) your pics are huge and it makes your thread tough to read/view.

Thanks, and I should use the smaller size and keep forgetting.

Every vehicle I own goes closed loop within a min or two of a cold start. My 2002 Saturn shot box has a 1 wire bank 1 O2 sensor mounted around 12" from the head and at times is the fastest to go closed loop.

I am going to check my exhaust joint bolts for tightness at the crossover pipe and the connection to the CAT. Maybe instead of the cat cooling off just tooling around I've got a leak and getting reversion caused air infiltration. The dreaded 420 code hasn't come back.....yet.

Next project is putting a 2013 Corolla NAV radio in. Must find the speedo wire and the reverse wire and think if I want to use the XM radio option. That frees up a T1819 radio so I can repair the noisy cooling fan in the T1819 I put in my Saturn and have no loss of radio.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Replaced the brush assembly in the spare 97 Alternator. PN 27370-35060

If your a Japan motorcycle rider use the Phillips screwdriver that's in your tool kit. You need a Japan number 2 Phillips. American will strip the heads


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[19963.4lsr5]

Got my Corolla radio today with NAV and built in XM.

The mount bracket currently secures the Entune-NAV module. The brackets I'll take off the T1819 unit I'm pretty sure will not hold the lower module in place.


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[19963.4lsr5]

First picture is ensuring the non Toyota USB cable fit. The second picture is trimming the non-Toyota GPS antenna plug to fit. Looks good!!!!!!


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[19963.4lsr5]

So today I put the Denso Alt that I installed the new brush holder in. I removed this alt from the Limited Puppy Hauler because of a very loud wine coming from the alt when under a high load. New brushed did not eliminate the noise under load.

Removing the rear cover of the reman CarQuest alt revealed severely worn brushes and the holder looks like the newer 80a alternator. So I ordered a brush holder assembly from the dealership for a 2000 with the 80a alternator. 21 dollars and it will be here tomorrow.

The second picture is it compared to a new brush holder assembly from the 70a alt. I tried installing it but it doesn't fit right.

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[19963.4lsr5]

This alt is not happy. I'll get a brush assembly for the other alt and put it back in the toy. Then look at this one more closely. I'm thinking one of the diodes in the bridge is bad. This alt won't push enough amps at idle in gear with headlights on. It drops below 12.7v. If I put it in neutral it goes to 14v.


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[19963.4lsr5]

comparing old and new 80a alternator brush holder assembly.

this third picture is something simple you can do to push the bushing back a little bit so the alternator slides in place.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Second picture is a good diode reading using the diode checker.

This above picture is reading a good diode using the ohm setting.


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[19963.4lsr5]

This picture is reading the top negative plate to one of the 3 diodes. Check the same three that were checked for the positive plate but like shown the leads are reversed.

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